Bypass installation

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Hey guys, so I'm trying to install a bypass oil filter on my Trooper.

I was thinking of doing the following. Let me know what you think.

I was going to use something like this:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/23693/1...CFcpZ7Aod1REATA

and run a hose to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Wix-24755-Filter-Mounting-Base/dp/B0014BIAG0

I was thinking I could either plug the "in" hole on the oil sandwich adapter and run the "out" hole to the filter mount, and run that to the the crank case via a modified fill lid.

OR maybe I could run the "out" hole on the adapter to the filter mount and run the exit on the filter mount to the "in" hole on the oil adapter.

Would either of these work?

Would I need something like this to lower the amount going to the filter mount (the bypass filter) or does the filter itself control how much can enter at one time? (don't wanna mess up oil pressure)
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/fi.../?code=BP313-EA

sorry. I'm still a little new to this.
 
The oil exiting the oil system to the bypass filter should be restricted with a one sixteenth inch diameter orifice. The bypass filter will get plenty of oil flow to do it's work and the oil system will never see a drop in flow or pressure.

You should consider not using your second method. The return oil should flow back into an unpressurized area like a cam cover or the oil pan.
 
I'm first going to ask WHY you're doing this.

If the answer is because you want to do so, and it's just going to be an object of affection to toy with, then I'd say go for it and just make sure you use common sense to protect and seal all circuits. There is some amount of fun and pride in making a system from scratch; it is a show-piece to display whilst drinking suds with your buddies.


If you are doing this in the vein attempt to make things "better", because you (falsely) believe you "need" this to make your engine survive, you're mistaken.


If you're going to do this because you actually intend to manage the OCIs via UOAs and PC data, where you set condemnation points and manage the overall maintenance of the sytsem to it's proper intent, then kudos to you! Make sure you use a restrictor in the path so that flow is appropriately slowed in the BP loop. Return the fluid to a non-presurized area such as pan or cover as suggested by OEJ above. If your approach is to manage the system for the best ROI, then you're on the right track.


BP filter systems for engine lubes are great ideas IF they are managed properly. But depending upon application, it can be very difficult to get a decent ROI. After you pay for components, upkeep, data analayis and such, small sumps often never return the expense on a reasonable ratio. Whereas OTR rigs have sumps big enough to show a small cost for this approach, small sumps can actually be O/FCId for often less than the maintenance-intensive BP approach. BP filtration is a fiscal tool to manage the OCI costs. It is NOT an assurance of low wear to the exclusion of other alternatives.



In short, you can do it, but the real question is should you do it?
 
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Go for it, and like Newton said, you must manage UOA data. Not hard to do, so long as you know averages for your particular vehicle, and ideally you already have a UOA on your truck using standard filtration, but not required.

IMO, go for an Amsoil bypass kit, either a dual remote or the single bypass kit. Another good kit is Jackmaster Bypass Filters (Australia), $170 for unit and $10 for replacement cartridges, and it removes water, which may or may not be a requirement.

http://jackmasteroilfilters.com.au/jackmaster_info.html

Also, check out my CRV with an Amsoil dual remote bypass setup installed back in July of 2014.

http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/sethhu...rt=3&page=1
 
I'm doing it to be green and save some oil. To be able to say my oil is filtered to "1 micron". Etc. Etc.

I don't wanna spend as much as Amsoil wants. It looks like its at least 300. (287, plus adapter, plus filter)

Does anyone know anything about the TopDog bypass setup?
I saw a post about it, but it didnt say anything about quality or how well it works.
http://www.paretopoint.com/consumer-filtration-products/topdog-v-overview
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1009or-bypass-filtration-made-easy-topdog-v/photo-09.html
 
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I have seen the TopDog before yes, don't know anyone who has installed one, however. Looks like a good unit, and you can use Amsoil bypass elements (EABP-90, 100, 110..) the BP-90 is plenty large enough for most passenger vehicles, with larger diesel pickups jumping up to a BP-100.

How much is it?
 
Originally Posted By: zpinch
I have seen the TopDog before yes, don't know anyone who has installed one, however. Looks like a good unit, and you can use Amsoil bypass ....

How much is it?


I called them and got the following information.
They no longer make their setup for amsoil filters. They now use Donaldson bypass filters which don't fit the same. The guy told me that Donaldson makes the filter for amsoil anyways, so it's nearly the same thing. He said they are both 5 micron filters.

The setup (taxes, shipping, and an extra filter included) costs 245
 
I was told that if the oil is filtered lowered than 5 microns that it will start to remove the oil additives that the manufacturers put in.

Anybody know anything about this?
 
Originally Posted By: 99Troopers
I was told that if the oil is filtered lowered than 5 microns that it will start to remove the oil additives that the manufacturers put in.

Anybody know anything about this?


Yup - pure rubbish.
Yet another myth from folks that know nothing about lubricants.
 
I am no fan of sandwich adapter installs. There are both parallel and serial adapters, and some with and some without bypasses. If you are not sure on what you are doing, you can starve your engine of oil.

My recommendation is to use a Frantz kit, or equivalent, from ebay or other online source and T-into the oil pressure sender, and return flow to the oil fill cap or oil pan.
 
Okay so you can't purchase the top dog setup with the amsoil filters anymore. The kit now includes all the hoses, the adapter, and two Donaldson filters. The price is set at $240 and that includes shipping.

The Donaldson filters are rated at 5 microns. I was told that Donaldson is just as good but that they rate their filters on a newer scale than amsoil does.
Does anyone know anything about this?

Is there an adapter I can spin on to run an amsoil filter instead of a Donaldson filter?
 
Bypass setups look like a weak link in reliability , I might be a worrier but with all the external oil lines and fittings, it sure would worry me that a catastrophic event would occur .

My other concern is the location of the filter, my engine compartment has zero room .It is not like an ole 56 chevy with tons of room under the hood.

I see photos of these units stuffed here and there, pretty much a problem looking for a solution .
 
I haven't seen any weak links with bypass installations.

Like anything, quality install should be trouble free.

But the world is full of hacks that shouldn't even be allowed to pop the hood. If you are not competent, then don't bother starting the install.

Plenty of room under the most hoods. But, one needs the intelligence and creativity in order to see that free space and mount the bypass.
 
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