I know this oil has a lower TBN than Amsoil and other extended drain interval oil but how long could I use this oil for. The car sees more short trips than long ones but gets driven daily in SoCal. Whats the typical OCI for Redline 5W30?
Redline 5W30
- Thread starter mrcoolguy
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tbn is 9 and will last a year 10,000 miles.i change mine 5000 miles..
Assuming your engine is clean and in good health, run the oil for the factory recommended interval and do a UOA to see how much life is left in it to determine how much life is left for further use. This is 10x better then just guessing an appropriate interval (going about it blindly)
That said, the oil should be good for 10k like any other quality synthetic when coupled with a quality oil filter.
With your short trips, I wouldn't run it for 10k.
That said, the oil should be good for 10k like any other quality synthetic when coupled with a quality oil filter.
With your short trips, I wouldn't run it for 10k.
Depends on how you drive...
Assuming a clean engine:
- 75/25 Hwy/Cty: 10-15k (up to you to go past 10k)
- 50/50 Hwy/Cty: 7.5-10k
- 25/50 Hwy/Cty: 5.5-7k
Assuming a "dirty" (sludge, etc) engine:
- 75/25 Hwy/Cty: 7.5-10k
- 50/50 Hwy/Cty: 6-7.5k
- 25/75 Hwy/Cty: 4-5k
If trips are shorter than 20 miles on average (say, daily commute), your engine is not getting the oil fully up-to-temp, so I would then go lower still... Redline WILL clean up your engine, it did wonders for me on multiple cars, but if you're already clean then it will also provide good cold-engine performance IMO/IME.
I would say NOT MORE THAN TEN THOUSAND WITHOUT A GOOD UOA!
Assuming a clean engine:
- 75/25 Hwy/Cty: 10-15k (up to you to go past 10k)
- 50/50 Hwy/Cty: 7.5-10k
- 25/50 Hwy/Cty: 5.5-7k
Assuming a "dirty" (sludge, etc) engine:
- 75/25 Hwy/Cty: 7.5-10k
- 50/50 Hwy/Cty: 6-7.5k
- 25/75 Hwy/Cty: 4-5k
If trips are shorter than 20 miles on average (say, daily commute), your engine is not getting the oil fully up-to-temp, so I would then go lower still... Redline WILL clean up your engine, it did wonders for me on multiple cars, but if you're already clean then it will also provide good cold-engine performance IMO/IME.
I would say NOT MORE THAN TEN THOUSAND WITHOUT A GOOD UOA!
My engine is pretty clean with no sludge just some light varnish. I do trips of 5 miles to 15 roundtrip with occasional 40ish mile trips. It's about 50/50 highways and city but I do tend to drive hard sometimes.
The drive hard part is not the issue.
The short trip driving is what is going to be hard on the oil/engine.
The reason for this is that the oil is not getting warm enough for long enough to be able to have the moisture and fuel evaporate out, and be drawn out through the PCV system.
While the TBN is lower than some other oils, that is not the whole story.
Some brands lose TBN faster than others.
That said, Redline does not target the super long Oil Change Interval (OCI) like Amsoil does.
However, that short trip driving is going to be an issue that would shorten the ideal OCI for Amsoil and any other brand of oil.
As mentioned, the BEST way to extend the OCI is to take a sample at the end of the manufacturer's specified mileage/time and send it in to be tested.
Take note that short trip driving is going to put you into the "Severe Service" catagory.
Particularly in the winter in cold climate areas, because it takes longer to warm up from 0 degrees F than it does from 70 degrees F.
The short trip driving is what is going to be hard on the oil/engine.
The reason for this is that the oil is not getting warm enough for long enough to be able to have the moisture and fuel evaporate out, and be drawn out through the PCV system.
While the TBN is lower than some other oils, that is not the whole story.
Some brands lose TBN faster than others.
That said, Redline does not target the super long Oil Change Interval (OCI) like Amsoil does.
However, that short trip driving is going to be an issue that would shorten the ideal OCI for Amsoil and any other brand of oil.
As mentioned, the BEST way to extend the OCI is to take a sample at the end of the manufacturer's specified mileage/time and send it in to be tested.
Take note that short trip driving is going to put you into the "Severe Service" catagory.
Particularly in the winter in cold climate areas, because it takes longer to warm up from 0 degrees F than it does from 70 degrees F.
Im not sure if it helps but I always warm up my vehicle before I use it so the coolant level reaches 210 degrees. I am not sure about the oil since my gauge does not read oil temp!
Originally Posted By: mrcoolguy
I know this oil has a lower TBN than Amsoil and other extended drain interval oil but how long could I use this oil for. The car sees more short trips than long ones but gets driven daily in SoCal. Whats the typical OCI for Redline 5W30?
Whatever your vehicle owners manual states.
I know this oil has a lower TBN than Amsoil and other extended drain interval oil but how long could I use this oil for. The car sees more short trips than long ones but gets driven daily in SoCal. Whats the typical OCI for Redline 5W30?
Whatever your vehicle owners manual states.
Originally Posted By: mrcoolguy
My engine is pretty clean with no sludge just some light varnish. I do trips of 5 miles to 15 roundtrip with occasional 40ish mile trips. It's about 50/50 highways and city but I do tend to drive hard sometimes.
There's nothing hard about that useage for your '99 Camero SS.
RL 5W-30 as I mentioned in your other post is heavier than necessary for your application since has the effective viscosity of a 40wt oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2472320&page=5
If you like RL, their 0W-30 would be a much better choice due to it's more suitable HTHSV (bearing viscosity) of 3.2cP and higher 183 viscosity index.
My engine is pretty clean with no sludge just some light varnish. I do trips of 5 miles to 15 roundtrip with occasional 40ish mile trips. It's about 50/50 highways and city but I do tend to drive hard sometimes.
There's nothing hard about that useage for your '99 Camero SS.
RL 5W-30 as I mentioned in your other post is heavier than necessary for your application since has the effective viscosity of a 40wt oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2472320&page=5
If you like RL, their 0W-30 would be a much better choice due to it's more suitable HTHSV (bearing viscosity) of 3.2cP and higher 183 viscosity index.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: mrcoolguy
My engine is pretty clean with no sludge just some light varnish. I do trips of 5 miles to 15 roundtrip with occasional 40ish mile trips. It's about 50/50 highways and city but I do tend to drive hard sometimes.
There's nothing hard about that useage for your '99 Camero SS.
RL 5W-30 as I mentioned in your other post is heavier than necessary for your application since has the effective viscosity of a 40wt oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2472320&page=5
If you like RL, their 0W-30 would be a much better choice due to it's more suitable HTHSV (bearing viscosity) of 3.2cP and higher 183 viscosity index.
What OCI would you suggest?
Originally Posted By: mrcoolguy
My engine is pretty clean with no sludge just some light varnish. I do trips of 5 miles to 15 roundtrip with occasional 40ish mile trips. It's about 50/50 highways and city but I do tend to drive hard sometimes.
There's nothing hard about that useage for your '99 Camero SS.
RL 5W-30 as I mentioned in your other post is heavier than necessary for your application since has the effective viscosity of a 40wt oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2472320&page=5
If you like RL, their 0W-30 would be a much better choice due to it's more suitable HTHSV (bearing viscosity) of 3.2cP and higher 183 viscosity index.
What OCI would you suggest?
I would suggest starting with 5k mile OCI's and see how it holds up in your application, increasing from there. I don't put a whole lot of faith in UOA's, but they will give you a good idea of how an oil is holding up in your car. Assuming you aren't driving like Boy Racer all of the time, I see no reason why Redline 5w30 shouldn't be good for 10k miles...
Just make sure you have a good filter, and you might want to change filters halfway through your first 5k OCI as Redline tends to clean very well and this will allow it to work optimally as well as potentially last longer. Plus, when changing your filter, you will be adding fresh oil into the crank so your additive pack will be (however slightly) replenished.
At least that has been what has given me the best results. Your mileage may vary...literally
Just make sure you have a good filter, and you might want to change filters halfway through your first 5k OCI as Redline tends to clean very well and this will allow it to work optimally as well as potentially last longer. Plus, when changing your filter, you will be adding fresh oil into the crank so your additive pack will be (however slightly) replenished.
At least that has been what has given me the best results. Your mileage may vary...literally
FWIW; I'm going to push my RL 0W-30 OCI (even though it encompasses all of winter, and the requisite cold, short trips, etc.) to at least 8K miles, possibly even 10K, on my daily driven LS1 (YES, even without the much lauded UOA, heaven forbid!
).
Hi guys, i'm new here and wanted some advice/opinions on my recent UOA. I was curious to know how the oil was performing so I took the sample early, therefore the oil had only run for 3000 miles. Here are the details:
2013 Toyota GT86.
13,000 miles (supercharged at 11,000 miles).
Daily driver. No track work but not babied either.
Oil temps on street during summer is approx 220-230. With spirited driving during summer I've seen temps shoot to 240.
Oil analysis performed by: http://www.roktex.com.au/
water 0
lead 1
calcium 2603
oxidation 123
boron 0
zinc 1048
molybdenum 140
copper 2
fuel dilution 2
Viscosity at 100 9.6
phosphorus 0
magnesium 8
tin 0
nickel 2
TBN 9.1
nitration 11
sodium 5
aluminium 3
silicon 29
iron 9
FTIR soot 9.7
chromium 0
"Silicon is at 29ppm. Silicon is a highly abrasive material and can cause accelerated wear. Check air intake system. Viscosity @40 decreased to 54cst. 2% Fuel Dilution Detected. The presence of fuel can indicate faulty injectors, pumps or liners leading to poor combustion. Excessive idling/incorrect timing could also be a possibility. Oxidation and Sulphation are elevated. Oxidation is caused by abnormal combustion, high temperatures, oil aeration and high levels of copper. This can increase oil viscosity and leave piston deposits causing piston rings to stick."
My thoughts are:
1) Silicone levels - dirty air filter. I've ordered a new one.
2) Oxidation levels - due to the ester based oil, yes? So is this normal for this oil?
Should I stick to this oil spec again, or go thicker? The factory spec is only 0w20 and I'm worried about going with something too thick. In fact I was considering doing 50/50 Redline 5w30 and 5w20. What do you think?
2013 Toyota GT86.
13,000 miles (supercharged at 11,000 miles).
Daily driver. No track work but not babied either.
Oil temps on street during summer is approx 220-230. With spirited driving during summer I've seen temps shoot to 240.
Oil analysis performed by: http://www.roktex.com.au/
water 0
lead 1
calcium 2603
oxidation 123
boron 0
zinc 1048
molybdenum 140
copper 2
fuel dilution 2
Viscosity at 100 9.6
phosphorus 0
magnesium 8
tin 0
nickel 2
TBN 9.1
nitration 11
sodium 5
aluminium 3
silicon 29
iron 9
FTIR soot 9.7
chromium 0
"Silicon is at 29ppm. Silicon is a highly abrasive material and can cause accelerated wear. Check air intake system. Viscosity @40 decreased to 54cst. 2% Fuel Dilution Detected. The presence of fuel can indicate faulty injectors, pumps or liners leading to poor combustion. Excessive idling/incorrect timing could also be a possibility. Oxidation and Sulphation are elevated. Oxidation is caused by abnormal combustion, high temperatures, oil aeration and high levels of copper. This can increase oil viscosity and leave piston deposits causing piston rings to stick."
My thoughts are:
1) Silicone levels - dirty air filter. I've ordered a new one.
2) Oxidation levels - due to the ester based oil, yes? So is this normal for this oil?
Should I stick to this oil spec again, or go thicker? The factory spec is only 0w20 and I'm worried about going with something too thick. In fact I was considering doing 50/50 Redline 5w30 and 5w20. What do you think?
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