Was looking for a way to wash my truck's undercarriage and came across this device. What do you think?
http://www.theunderwasher.com/
http://www.theunderwasher.com/
Washing Vehicle Undercarriages
- Thread starter SwedishRider
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We have so much salt spread on the roads it doesn't matter. The damage is done.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
That's pretty nifty. I be you can make one yourself for $10.
You probably could, but they aren't asking a ridiculous amount for them: $16.99 plus $7.99 shipping. And they are made in Connecticut, USA.
That's pretty nifty. I be you can make one yourself for $10.
You probably could, but they aren't asking a ridiculous amount for them: $16.99 plus $7.99 shipping. And they are made in Connecticut, USA.
Lawn sprinkler does the same deal.
I've been using the lawn sprinkler for a few years with great results.
Initially it seems like a great idea.
Perhaps if a fella needed to blast out slush or blast off flaky salt an sand to work on a car, perhaps doing some suspension work,on a 'warm' (32-40F) winter day.
Then it'd be great.
However, I wonder if a chemist might actually say that unless the blasting uses a real neutralizer of some kind / really actually gets it all blasted off..... That what really happens is 'activation' of the salts and a worsening of the problem o underbody corrosion.
In a nutshell, I think it's good for physical cleaning but it may actually make a salty dry underbody worse in that it provides liquid to push the salt brine deeper and reactivate it.
Anybody out ther a chemist? Or know I dry brine isess active than re-wetted brine?
Perhaps if a fella needed to blast out slush or blast off flaky salt an sand to work on a car, perhaps doing some suspension work,on a 'warm' (32-40F) winter day.
Then it'd be great.
However, I wonder if a chemist might actually say that unless the blasting uses a real neutralizer of some kind / really actually gets it all blasted off..... That what really happens is 'activation' of the salts and a worsening of the problem o underbody corrosion.
In a nutshell, I think it's good for physical cleaning but it may actually make a salty dry underbody worse in that it provides liquid to push the salt brine deeper and reactivate it.
Anybody out ther a chemist? Or know I dry brine isess active than re-wetted brine?
I made my own out of PVC! If you shop around you can find a water sprinkler that does a great job...My autos normally stay on tarmac so the only thing I have to wash off is Salt during the winter months.
The only problem i see, is you have to hold it. I like an oscillating lawn sprinkler that i can set in place and walk away for a while.
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Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Initially it seems like a great idea.
Perhaps if a fella needed to blast out slush or blast off flaky salt an sand to work on a car, perhaps doing some suspension work,on a 'warm' (32-40F) winter day.
Then it'd be great.
However, I wonder if a chemist might actually say that unless the blasting uses a real neutralizer of some kind / really actually gets it all blasted off..... That what really happens is 'activation' of the salts and a worsening of the problem o underbody corrosion.
In a nutshell, I think it's good for physical cleaning but it may actually make a salty dry underbody worse in that it provides liquid to push the salt brine deeper and reactivate it.
Anybody out ther a chemist? Or know I dry brine isess active than re-wetted brine?
Salt is always active from just the moisture in the air. It's better to get as much off as possible.
Initially it seems like a great idea.
Perhaps if a fella needed to blast out slush or blast off flaky salt an sand to work on a car, perhaps doing some suspension work,on a 'warm' (32-40F) winter day.
Then it'd be great.
However, I wonder if a chemist might actually say that unless the blasting uses a real neutralizer of some kind / really actually gets it all blasted off..... That what really happens is 'activation' of the salts and a worsening of the problem o underbody corrosion.
In a nutshell, I think it's good for physical cleaning but it may actually make a salty dry underbody worse in that it provides liquid to push the salt brine deeper and reactivate it.
Anybody out ther a chemist? Or know I dry brine isess active than re-wetted brine?
Salt is always active from just the moisture in the air. It's better to get as much off as possible.
They also sell a "Salt-Away Kit" that can be installed in-line before the Underwasher that uses a concentrated chemical to remove the salt under a vehicle. It's listed on http://www.theunderwasher.com/ for $35 plus $14.99 S&H.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Initially it seems like a great idea.
Perhaps if a fella needed to blast out slush or blast off flaky salt an sand to work on a car, perhaps doing some suspension work,on a 'warm' (32-40F) winter day.
Then it'd be great.
However, I wonder if a chemist might actually say that unless the blasting uses a real neutralizer of some kind / really actually gets it all blasted off..... That what really happens is 'activation' of the salts and a worsening of the problem o underbody corrosion.
In a nutshell, I think it's good for physical cleaning but it may actually make a salty dry underbody worse in that it provides liquid to push the salt brine deeper and reactivate it.
Anybody out ther a chemist? Or know I dry brine isess active than re-wetted brine?
Salt is always active from just the moisture in the air. It's better to get as much off as possible.
Hmm. I wonder really. Does salt which is 'dry' but pulling moisture from already 'dry' very cold air more active than salt which is re-wetted? The question to ponder has now morphed. Interesting.
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Initially it seems like a great idea.
Perhaps if a fella needed to blast out slush or blast off flaky salt an sand to work on a car, perhaps doing some suspension work,on a 'warm' (32-40F) winter day.
Then it'd be great.
However, I wonder if a chemist might actually say that unless the blasting uses a real neutralizer of some kind / really actually gets it all blasted off..... That what really happens is 'activation' of the salts and a worsening of the problem o underbody corrosion.
In a nutshell, I think it's good for physical cleaning but it may actually make a salty dry underbody worse in that it provides liquid to push the salt brine deeper and reactivate it.
Anybody out ther a chemist? Or know I dry brine isess active than re-wetted brine?
Salt is always active from just the moisture in the air. It's better to get as much off as possible.
Hmm. I wonder really. Does salt which is 'dry' but pulling moisture from already 'dry' very cold air more active than salt which is re-wetted? The question to ponder has now morphed. Interesting.
My unscientific answer is... maybe. I remember when heated garages were blamed for accelerated rusting of cars in northern climates. I would have to think snow and ice melt on a daily basis in salty conditions played a role.
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Initially it seems like a great idea.
Perhaps if a fella needed to blast out slush or blast off flaky salt an sand to work on a car, perhaps doing some suspension work,on a 'warm' (32-40F) winter day.
Then it'd be great.
However, I wonder if a chemist might actually say that unless the blasting uses a real neutralizer of some kind / really actually gets it all blasted off..... That what really happens is 'activation' of the salts and a worsening of the problem o underbody corrosion.
In a nutshell, I think it's good for physical cleaning but it may actually make a salty dry underbody worse in that it provides liquid to push the salt brine deeper and reactivate it.
Anybody out ther a chemist? Or know I dry brine isess active than re-wetted brine?
Salt is always active from just the moisture in the air. It's better to get as much off as possible.
Hmm. I wonder really. Does salt which is 'dry' but pulling moisture from already 'dry' very cold air more active than salt which is re-wetted? The question to ponder has now morphed. Interesting.
Doesn't make any difference as long as the salt is wet.
I just found out how to calibrate a hygrometer with salt and some water in a sealed container.
A teaspoon of salt and enough water to keep it damp will give you 75% humidity. You can use different salts for different humidity levels.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Initially it seems like a great idea.
Perhaps if a fella needed to blast out slush or blast off flaky salt an sand to work on a car, perhaps doing some suspension work,on a 'warm' (32-40F) winter day.
Then it'd be great.
However, I wonder if a chemist might actually say that unless the blasting uses a real neutralizer of some kind / really actually gets it all blasted off..... That what really happens is 'activation' of the salts and a worsening of the problem o underbody corrosion.
In a nutshell, I think it's good for physical cleaning but it may actually make a salty dry underbody worse in that it provides liquid to push the salt brine deeper and reactivate it.
Anybody out ther a chemist? Or know I dry brine isess active than re-wetted brine?
Salt is always active from just the moisture in the air. It's better to get as much off as possible.
Hmm. I wonder really. Does salt which is 'dry' but pulling moisture from already 'dry' very cold air more active than salt which is re-wetted? The question to ponder has now morphed. Interesting.
Doesn't make any difference as long as the salt is wet.
I just found out how to calibrate a hygrometer with salt and some water in a sealed container.
A teaspoon of salt and enough water to keep it damp will give you 75% humidity. You can use different salts for different humidity levels.
Originally Posted By: SwedishRider
My unscientific answer is... maybe. I remember when heated garages were blamed for accelerated rusting of cars in northern climates. I would have to think snow and ice melt on a daily basis in salty conditions played a role.
Taking that into my thoughts...here what I think is the spectrum of damage.
Most Dangerous = Wet Salt + Warm Temps
Dangerous = Caked 'Dried' Salt + Warm Temps (more humidity held in air)
Bad = Wet Salt + Cold Temps
Least Bad = Caked 'Dried' Salt + Cold or Very Cold Temps (very little humidity to harness)
My unscientific answer is... maybe. I remember when heated garages were blamed for accelerated rusting of cars in northern climates. I would have to think snow and ice melt on a daily basis in salty conditions played a role.
Taking that into my thoughts...here what I think is the spectrum of damage.
Most Dangerous = Wet Salt + Warm Temps
Dangerous = Caked 'Dried' Salt + Warm Temps (more humidity held in air)
Bad = Wet Salt + Cold Temps
Least Bad = Caked 'Dried' Salt + Cold or Very Cold Temps (very little humidity to harness)
I would wait until most of the snow is gone. If you drive at all during the day when it's above freezing you're bound to drive through puddles and it'll just negate any effect the washing just had.
I never lived in a really bad salt area. In a moderate salt use area I had good results by spraying the undercarriage with the wand at the coin operated wash. If they used recycled water that would be an issue.
I've used "salt away" I think it helps.
Salt is hydroscopic, meaning it attracts its own moisture. Doing nothing and hoping for the best is probably a mistake.
I've used "salt away" I think it helps.
Salt is hydroscopic, meaning it attracts its own moisture. Doing nothing and hoping for the best is probably a mistake.
I'm trying the "Fluid Film the snot out of the underside and let it go until spring" deal on our two cars. Time will tell if it works or not. All the car washes around here recycle water, and washing at home with a hose isn't an option for me.
Do not car washes filter their recycled water???????????????????
Most are required to per the EPA regulations.
Most are required to per the EPA regulations.
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