3 Little Wires on Top of Alternator

[Gebo]

in the process of changing the leaking valve covers on my '00 Lexus GS300, I was moving things to get them out of the way. I remember trying to unplug the black wire going to the top of the Alternator. It didn't give easily as I pulled the black cover off and noticed there were 3 little wires underneath the cover. I pushed the black rubber cover back down and moved on. All is well, so I think. Got the covers on, cranked the car, drove it 5 miles to work, drove it back home and all is well, so I think. Left out last night on a 30 mile trip. After about 25 miles continuous driving, the radio turned off, Then the clock started fading out. Then the dash lights started fading out and then to motor stopped. I pulled off side of road trying to collect my thoughts. After about 2 minutes, the radio came on and I was able to crank the engine and drive to a pull off area and the same sequence of events happened again. I'm figuring it is the alternator. Called tow truck to take me home.

Since it was after 9 pm, I decided to wait until this morning to check things out. Well, here's what I found but I don't know exactly how to fix it. I pulled back the little rubber black boot on top of the alternator. There are 3 tiny wires with little pink plastic boots with what I think are brushes and little springs. Two of them were out farther than the other one which still looked plugged in and one was out to where I could see the spring. I tried pushing the 2 back in. One went easily and the other I had to twist. Anyways, I started the car and it ran for about 2 minutes and died the same way before. I believe my problem is with those 3 wires but I'm not sure if they go in a certain way or if I have to take something off and reinsert them or what. I need some guidance. I don't think it is my alternator itself that's giving me the problem..

 

[HerrStig]

That's the same alternator the V6 Camry of the same year uses. Go to a parts store and look at a replacement unit and compare.
It appears that somehow you have damaged wiring to the brush holder. Perhaps a new brush/holder assembly will do. Not expensive. A picture of the current condition of the unit back would help. It's a Denso unit on most of those V6 engines.

 

[cjcride]

Bet it is the connector. Pictures would help.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: cjcride
Bet it is the connector. Pictures would help.
Sounds like the connector itself got loose. I always spray some DeOxit on those plastic connectors before pulling them. They get brittle and the DeOxit helps them come apart with less force. I think there's a tab lock on that connector and not pushing it in while pulling the connector can cause to separate in ways Toyota neve intended.

 

[HerrStig]

I looked at my shop manual and there is a tab lock on the alternator side of the connector. Not disengaging that tab can cause the entire thing to break loose.

 

[Gebo]

 

[The_Eric]

Must have pulled the spades out of the connector. If you're lucky you can push them back down in. It may require removing the connector though. Worst case is you pulled the wire(s) from female spades inside the connector, which would require a new pigtail.

 

[Gebo]

 

[Gebo]

So I can pull out that black connector?

 

[The_Eric]

Yep. Looks like the release tabs are at 1 and 7 o'clock in your pic.

 

[Trav]

Looks like you pulled the red wire out. As others have said just press the clip in and pull the connector off then push those wires back in.

You probably bent the ear on the plug terminal that stops it from pushing out when installing the plug.
To fix it push the terminal all the way through (do not pull it out but push it in) and look for a little tab that is probably bent or flattened out.
Use a small screwdriver to bend it so it doesn't pull through. Maybe someone else can explain it better.

 

[Leo99]

Those electric connectors thwart me, too.

The red wire is elevated. Just pushing it down should solve your problems. If not, you'll have to remove the plug from the alternator to troubleshoot.

Try to push down (the opposite way you want it to move) while pinching the tab open to break it lose. Or try to gently lift the tabs with a small screwdriver. I've broken a few tabs in my life doing this so be careful.

Once you unplug the plug from the alternator, you'll be able to ensure the wires are seated in the plug properly.

 

[Gebo]

So I need to remove the black piece?

 

[Leo99]

Originally Posted By: Gebo
So I need to remove the black piece?


Push the purple cap for the red wire down first and see if you can get it to seat. 80% chance that solves your problem.

 

[HerrStig]

You should remove the "plug" which is the portion attached to the wire running to the vehicle harness. Get a strong light and be sure of how the release system works, then spray some WD 40 on it to make it easier to remove. (good practice any time you mess with these things.) The socket on the alternator will have three rectangular contacts which mate with the opposite type on the plug. Make sure they have not been bent and that they mate up. I assume that you got this plug apart once and when reseating it one of the connections didn't mate. If you are still unsure of all this post a photo of the socket on the alternator and the plug end when you get them apart. As others have pointed out, you have to be sure of how these things come apart so as not to break them. Most require squeezing a tab on the harness end to lift the other end of what you squeeze over a "bump" on the socket end. I've spent a fair amount of time with a strong light working out how the squeeze and pull move works on different connectors.

 

[Gebo]

OK. I'll be back this soon..........

 

[Gebo]

The little gray graphite looking piece had a notch on one side of it. I turned it 1/4 turn, pushed it back in and it snapped back in like a charm. I cranked it and it has been running in driveway for 10 minutes. I'm gonna let it go for an hour unless you guys have a better way to check things. I was thinking about checking the voltage going to the battery and see if if is 14 volts or higher. Does that sound right?

 

[Gebo]

Still running. I think I'll run it around he block.

 

[Gokhan]

Those three wires connect to various points on the IC regulator to exchange information on the status of the alternator, ignition switch, engine, and some accessories. If there is a problem with the wires or connector plug, the alternator may thing that the ignition switch is off or something else and cut off the charging current.

The voltage should be about 14.3 V with the engine running (alternator voltage) and about 12.6 V with the engine stopped (voltage of fully charged battery).

It looks like you have a loose connector. Don't break the wires because you may have a hard time repairing the connector.

 

[Gebo]

13.52 volts at battery terminals at idle. Thanks for all you help. SOLVED!