Fire forming brass

[2cool]

I have a 358 Winchester. I know, just help me out. I accepted that it's a handloading propostion. I sized some 308 brass, and my GOD, [censored] near to killed me!!!! I'd looked at some YT videos on fire forming, and though is seems easier, I have a few questions.
1. Will any pistol powder do?
2. How much is needed?
3. Have you really used cream of wheat?
4. Is there something better than soap for the plug?
5. Is there a big white puff of "smoke" (can I do this on a public range without bringing attention to myself?)
Thanks.

 

[CarbonSteel]

You may want to look into hydraulic case forming as an alternative. Though the article is not explicitly for your cartridge, you will get the general idea and can check to see if equipment exists for yours.

PS...I use alcohol instead of water; it prevents the need to dry the cases after forming.

 

[punisher]

I have been reloading, and fire forming brass, for 30 years, and I have no idea what cream of wheat and soap have to do with it.

Be prepared to anneal the case mouths/necks at least once during neck expanding as you will have cracks if you don't. Make sure you have a shoulder or a ridge to headspace on. Load your ammo to at least minimum spec. Using light loads (below minimum), especially when fireforming a case, is counterproductive.

This is a straightforward operation. The only sticky point is the annealing process to keep the brass soft during the neck expansion(s). Most do it in stages, first to ~.32, then to final. Don't know OAL specs, so you might end up having to trim the case as well.

 

[demarpaint]

Can you use a "safe" load and do a little plinking, or target shooting to form your brass? Or a hydraulic case forming die?

All three methods work, I prefer to do a little plinking, but I haven't FF any .358 Win. JMO

 

[BISCUT]

I fireform a good amount for a few AI cases as well as for 358 and 35 Whelen. I just load up a plinking round and enjoy. I second the comment above about annealing. Will make a huge difference in the life of your fireformed brass.

 

[Fatboymoe]

I have used the fast powder(Red Dot), Cream of Wheat and wax plug method to fire form Sako 220 Russian cases to 22 PPC cases. It works!

1. I used a Remington 7 1/2 primer.
2. I used 6 grains of Red Dot. Note: With a larger case like the .308, you might need more powder.
3. I used a small piece of tissue paper packed over the powder to keep the powder/Cream of Wheat separated.
4. I filled the case with CoW to about 3/4 of the neck.
5. I topped it off with a paraffin plug.

When I actually fire formed the cases, I pulled the bolt out after every shot to make sure there was no residual CoW to act as a barrel obstruction. Worked perfectly.

 

[ediamiam]

I used to shoot .358 Winchester (Browning BLR). I checked my stash and have 16 empties and 24 live rounds. I was wondering what I could do with this stuff...

 

[FastGame]

These are already fire formed.. 358 Brass and 358 @ Brownells and 358 @ Gun Broker also ammo @GB but some cost $

 

[2cool]

I hadn't thought of the annealing, but having done some research, it's a wise move. I had found some 358 Win. brass, and full length sizing was pretty easy. I found some 308 brass that I put through the FL die....I had to just about stand up to push the handle down, and pull the handle up (yes, I did use Cabela's case lube) and put lube in the inside of the case. Dies are all Lee. I have some Hornady case lube that is semi solid, and I hope makes it easier.
Thanks for the responses. I'll try the fire forming in the spring. We're getting snow tonight. I know it's gotta end, but can't come soon enough to suit me.

 

[SuperDave456]

" The only sticky point is the annealing process to keep the brass soft during the neck expansion(s). Most do it in stages, first to ~.32, then to final."

You're going to really want to do batches of brass.
Also, look into purchasing another die to expand that neck gradually up to .35

I was thinking something along the line of .338-08 or something close to it. All you are looking for is to use the expansion ball to break up the jump from .308 to .358.
It will make life easier, and annealing will also make the cases last longer and have more even release.

You can anneal cases in a cookie tray filled with water.
Place the cases base down in the water in the cookie tray.
Heat them with a torch until the change color a tiny bit.
Then tip them over into the water.
The water protects the bases from becoming annealed, and terrible things happening to your rifle from a head separation.

Lastly,
Read as much as you can, both online and in print.
When in doubt, double check.
Printed sources, from major manufacturers, with recent dates, are always more credible than something you find online.

 

[2cool]

Thank you Super Dave 456. That annealing operation sounds like a plan. I hadn't thought of a 338 die, and honestly, at this point any additional costs are marginal.

 

[punisher]

All you need is the .338 expander ball.

 

[2cool]

Never thought of that!! I'll have to call Lee.