Rotella for Break In?

[GEM]

I've now got about 140 miles on a new KLR650 Kawasaki (Single Cylinder, Dual Sport), and have been a big fan of Rotella Full Syn (5w40) for many years. I have used it since day one for all my road and dirt bikes.
Since the Rotella synthetic (5w40) is what I've put in my other bikes, I was gonna use it for the first oil change on the KLR. But I am reading on a KLR650 forum that the full synthetic is not the best oil for a break in on a KLR650 -- which have a history of oil consumption if not broken in properly.

It is (and will continue to be until May) quite cold here with daytime temps in the teens. So I am worried that a 15w minimum viscosity may be too thick for winter.

Looking for second opinions as to the suitability of Rotella for this application and whether I should stick with the 5w-40 full synthetic or go to the 15w40 dino version of Rotella.

Thanks for your advice.

 

[29662]

I would go for the 15-40 for the simple fact that it's not going to be in long enough to take advantage of the syn's properties. I ride year round and this year I've ridden it as low as 14 degrees (RTS 15-40) with no issues(vfr800 interceptor), so you should be fine. Just warm it up real good before you go riding.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Rot 10w30 Triple Protect. Do they still make it?

 

[DoubleWasp]

Run the 15/40 and warm her up good before getting on her. She won't suffer any that way.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Don't worry you can continue the factory break in procedure with
synthetics... In a 100% synthetic the base oil is still crude
refined higher so the molecules have the same size and
composition which decreases friction and consumes less HP.

Both mineral and synthetic require high rpms to break through
the film strength to establish the correct level of controlled
wear...

How do you know if break is done??? take a compression test...
if your engine shows factory compression then break in is
complete... if your engine shows less than factory compression
then more break in is require...

SYNTHETICS

STRAIGHT MINERAL...

 

[GEM]

Thanks to all who've weighed in on this subject. Think I will use the 15w40 for the first change and 5w40 full synthetic for every subsequent change.

The tip about compression checking the motor is great advice.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Originally Posted By: GEM
Thanks to all who've weighed in on this subject. Think I will use the 15w40 for the first change and 5w40 full synthetic for every subsequent change.

The tip about compression checking the motor is great advice.


You're welcome... I forgot to mention to hold the throttle WFO (Wide Fooking Open) in order to pump the max to the gauge...

 

[yaris0128]

More like Rotella for life!

 

[Ausfahrt]

Originally Posted By: GEM


The tip about compression checking the motor is great advice.


Your KLR has Kawasaki's automatic compression release system (KACR) that reduces compression at low crank speeds to make it easier to start. It's really not practical to get an accurate compression reading unless you disable the KACR.

 

[Mackelroy]

The 5w40 is fine for breakin, but it doesn't hold up much better than a 10w40 car oil in a motorcycle. Iused it as breakin oil, but after breakin, I found there are better options, that hold up a lot better.

 

[Doog]

I always like to use mineral based oils for break in. Usually 1000 to 1500 miles and then synthetics. The only exception being Honda car engines which go 5000 on the FF.