Break in oil Chevy 4.3 vortec

[cronk]

So, my old reliable 1993 Chevy 1500 had to be retired. After 193k miles, I blew a tranny cooler line, lost fluid and and cooked the transmission.
I replaced it with a rust free Texas truck, an 1998 GMC 1500 with a 4.3 and 5 speed stick.
Upon getting the truck home, I changed the oil and the oil I drained from the filter looked like silver paint, lots of metal and bearing material. I got taken by the seller, think he put Lucas or Motor honey in it, with regular 10w30 the motor makes noise and is on its last legs.
I work at a GM dealership in parts so I purchased a Reman GM 4.3 long block. Comes with a 3 year 100k mile warranty.
I plan on keeping this truck a long time, so I want to make sure I break it in right.
Looking for recommendations for what oil to break it in on. I was thinking a 10w30 HDEO like Rotella or Delo. Probably run it 500 miles and dump it.
Thoughts?

 

[abycat]

id use 5w30 pyb.

 

[Kuato]

Sorry to hear that the seller had a problem with his integrity. IMO the actual oil used isn't as important as the shorter distance and filter changes on the first two OCIs.


Either of those oils sound fine, but "upstate NY" at this time of year indicates a 5w rather than a 10w.

 

[jorton]

From FFCars.com

"Get a couple of cases of old fashioned Kendall/Pennzoil/Quaker State dino and change it every 100 miles or so. After you've reached the 1000 or so mile mark then go to synthetic."

I think you can double the oci to 200 miles.

 

[barkingspider]

I would use what GM says to use for break in oil. If they don't specify, I would use Royal Purple break in oil 10w30. You can pick it up for $8 a qt. The 4.3L is a great engine, will last forever if you take care of it. Some will last even if you beat it up.

 

[nitehawk55]

For a 500 mile run you could use any decent 5W30 in it .

 

[bigt61]

Any cheap 5W-30 or 10W-30 should be fine for break in - even SuperTech. Do the 1st change at 1000-2000 miles and you should be good to go. 4.3L's are really hard to kill - the previous owner must have worked at it.

 

[KD0AXS]

Does it come with a FF already in it? My work just got a reman engine from Ford for one of our vans, and it had a big tag attached to it that said "This engine is factory filled with oil. Do not add oil".

 

[cronk]

No, it does not come with an oil pan, I have to transfer mine, so definitely not factory filled with oil.
It is a roller cam, so at least cam break in is not a concern.

I was leaning towards HDEO for better anti wear additive pack for the 1st short oil change, then switch to a regular 5w30 (probably Valvoline white bottle) for a couple 3k oil changes, then I plan on running synthetic.

 

[jk_636]

I know that manufacturers like Amsoil and Royal Purple have "break in oils." Typically straight 30 weight oils. I have never used them, but something like that may be applicable here?

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/royal-purple-break-in-oil/

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/break-in-oil-%28sae-30%29/?code=BRKQT-EA

^ For some reason this link wont work. Go ahead and copy and paste in your browser to see it.

 

[901Memphis]

Redline makes a nice break in additive that would work well with any good oil that contains no moly.

 

[4wheeldog]

I prefer the Brit term "Run in" to our crass "Break in."

And I would use a good brand name 5W/30 dino oil, for an initial 1k run. If oil consumption has stopped at that point, I would go to a good synthetic, from then on. If it were still using, I would run it another 3k on dino.

Actually, I am going to contradict myself, and recommend T5 10W/30 for the initial run in.

 

[splinter]

Originally Posted By: cronk
..I work at a GM dealership in parts..

Any of GM's own PN 88862587 'Assembly Lubricant' formerly known as Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) in stock?
It's chocked full of yummy minerals and vitamins specifically to help ensure hardware gets happy during run in.

That in a sump of quality conventional lubricant(s) and frequent initial change regimens have served me well in virtually every remanufactured fitting.

 

[Nickdfresh]

I'd just use conv. Pennzoil or Quaker State 5W-30. There's no need to over-think or overpay for simple break-in oil. I'd go 500 miles, then 3000 - then every 5000...

 

[Red91]

Honestly any conventional will do just fine. A '98 model 4.3 Vortec engine will have a roller camshaft, so there isn't much need to stress over higher zinc levels. If we run in an engine at the shop, we just use store brand conventional 5W-30 or 10W-30, then tell the owner to change it after 400-500 miles. I'd more than likely use QSGB 5W-30 or 10W-30, run it 500 miles, and change it. Maybe go 1,000 more miles and change, then begin normal OCI's. If more anti-wear is of concern, you could always use Defy.

 

[cronk]

Well, I ended up using Delo 10w30. I had a gallon laying around so it was kind of a no brainer. Spun on a WIX filter, and primed the oil system with a drill and priming shaft.
Got it running Tuesday night, drove it Thursday-saturday and it is running fantastic.
Will probably drive it 400-500 miles and change.
Might run the Delo for one more change before switching to a regular oil.

 

[Nickdfresh]

My only concern is it is sort of cold in these parts for the Delo...

 

[cronk]

Its been in a heated garage at 50f+, so cold starts are not an issue.

 

[ChrisGuerrero]

Originally Posted By: cronk
So, my old reliable 1993 Chevy 1500 had to be retired. After 193k miles, I blew a tranny cooler line, lost fluid and and cooked the transmission.
I replaced it with a rust free Texas truck, an 1998 GMC 1500 with a 4.3 and 5 speed stick.
Upon getting the truck home, I changed the oil and the oil I drained from the filter looked like silver paint, lots of metal and bearing material. I got taken by the seller, think he put Lucas or Motor honey in it, with regular 10w30 the motor makes noise and is on its last legs.
I work at a GM dealership in parts so I purchased a Reman GM 4.3 long block. Comes with a 3 year 100k mile warranty.
I plan on keeping this truck a long time, so I want to make sure I break it in right.
Looking for recommendations for what oil to break it in on. I was thinking a 10w30 HDEO like Rotella or Delo. Probably run it 500 miles and dump it.
Thoughts?


Hi Cronk,

Since this is a 1998 vehicle, a break-in oil is not necessary. Therefore, we recommend the Quaker State Defy Synthetic Blend 5W-30 or 10W-30 High Mileage Motor Oil for this application. The Quaker State Defy is formulated with extra anti-wear additives to help prevent further wear of engine parts. It’s also formulated with extra “seal conditioners” to help re-condition older seals (and help reduce oil leakage)and to be a higher viscosity motor oil to help improve engine sealing, increase compression and to reduce blow-by.

If you wanted to go with a Rotella product, the Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 Semi-Synthetic Motor Oil would also be a great choice. It too is formulated with additional anti-wear additives, while still being friendly to catalytic converters and others emission control equipment.

-The Shell Rotella Team

 

[Brons2]

I think the 10w30 Delo is ideal. This engine has a roller cam, you don't need the extra ZDDP or any of that stuff to break it in. Any oil with modern API specs should break it in fine. Delo is a very fine oil.

Everyone pushing certain brand is just pushing what their derrier dyno says is best.