Used car pre purchase inspection etiquette

Status
Not open for further replies.
Maintenance records would be nice and just having a look at how the guy takes care of his place in general. I doubt many guys make a special effort to maintain an old truck if their house and yard is a disaster.
 
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Maintenance records would be nice and just having a look at how the guy takes care of his place in general. I doubt many guys make a special effort to maintain an old truck if their house and yard is a disaster.


That's true, I'd be very surprised if maintenance records existed for little frequent stuff like oil changes and such. I personally don't keep my receipts when I buy oil but I do keep the top of the filter box and write the mileage on it. Big stuff like buying a new trans or any sort of work that is 'out of the ordinary' I keep receipts for.
I'm surprised by how many people dont bother to clean a vehicle up a little bit before a potential buyer looks at it. I mean it doesn't need to be detailed and showroom perfect, but a quick run through a cheap automatic car wash and a vacuuming of the interior goes a long way. I mean, who wants to buy a used car with bugs all over the windshield and fries under the seat?
 
Appearance, test drive, seller, etc.

I've always gone with the dirty car outside, dirty car internals. I also use the windshield washer fluid test...if the seller can't be bothered to fill up the windshield washer fluid, I am on red alert for the rest of my inspection/test drive.

Unfortunately the $2000 car is the $500 car of a few years ago, at least around me. So you have to wade through a lot of junk to find the gems. Best thing to do is bring along a knowledgeable friend that has the same model car you're looking at to help point out problem areas. But again, you're not going to have a lot of negotiating room, if it runs and drives, someone is going to buy it, and probably pretty quickly.
 
The asking price for a lot of cars is over the top IMO. A 30 year old truck with a quarter million miles and a very rough appearance isn't worth the $2000 a lot of folks ask for.
Maybe I'll just save my money and wait for the diesel gmc canyon to come out.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: thr_wedge
$150 is a 10% vehicle cost adder in this price range.

On a sub $2000 vehicle you are going to find a lot of issues. That $150 is better spent towards fluid changes, and new brake pads.


I agree.


Me too, on a sub 2K vehicle.
At this pricepoint, perfection is not in the cards.
 
In a really cheap vehicle, I think that you need to interview the seller as well as drive the car.
If the seller is an obvious know-nothing, then the car is probably a pass.
If the seller can intelligently discuss what he's done to the car and what it might need, then the car is probably worth a more serious look.
Bonus points for any seller willing to put the car up or pull plugs for your inspection.
There are gearheads and there are GHTs.
 
Originally Posted By: slowdime

What I'm really trying to avoid is ditching a known quantity in the Cavalier and ending up with something that needs a fair bit of work. But perhaps that's part of the game.


In your ad, say "need truck; cash only or will trade up/down for a S10 1994-2002" or somesuch.

Even if the buyer doesn't have a truck to trade, they'll believe you're sincere in wanting something different, that you don't mind chevys as you're buying another, and your car has lots of life to give.

When I sell a real cheap car, the buyer gets about five questions before they get annoying and I excuse myself. Beyond that, "it's a trap", and they're going to start playing the "you said" game that you can't win.
 
Originally Posted By: Tdbo
Me too, on a sub 2K vehicle.
At this pricepoint, perfection is not in the cards.


The purpose of a professional mechanic inspection is not to find perfection. It's to get an idea of what you're getting into, in a way that is comfortable for the seller.
 
On cars over 15 years old, the electronics are on borrowed time. Automotive spec for semiconductors is 15 year lifetime, and failure is not predictable. So even if the PPI shows nothing, an internal failure could render many of the electronics inoperable, could be later that day, could be in 20 more years. That's assuming a catastrophic failure, the more likely issue is that the unit in question starts operating slower than spec, and you'll get intermittent failures, hangs, etc.

I would much rather have a trusted friend, and or at least someone very familiar with the models I am looking at come with and make sure the major problem areas are under control.
 
Do not trade.

I would not feel comfortable in the least with someone performing intrusive tests potentially breaking my vehicle in the process. You have no idea of "skill" of a person checking your vehicle out. Also putting on jackstands in my own driveway and having vehicle fall on them and suing ya.

I had no issue though with my wife's Civic going to shop with potential future owner(Peruvian grad student in chemical engineering) have once over before she bought her car for $2500.

Apparently it worked out so well she drove it home to Peru after grad and is using it. She sent a blog link about her trip.
 
I hate to be blunt, but keep the Cavalier.

I had a 2002 like yours for 5+ years (many posts on it here), and it was a great, reliable car.

I got rid of it because I was 'tired' of it, and wanted something bigger...so I bought my Tribute.

Big mistake...much as I like the Tribute, it's not nearly as reliable or cheap to run as the Cavalier was. I really wish I'd kept my Cavalier longer.

If yours is in good shape, just keep it. It will keep going for years.
 
whats the big deal with pulling a spark plug? If you don't trust the buyer, grab a wrench and do it for him. Seems to me a compression test is not asking for much...
 
Originally Posted By: thr_wedge
$150 is a 10% vehicle cost adder in this price range.

On a sub $2000 vehicle you are going to find a lot of issues. That $150 is better spent towards fluid changes, and new brake pads.


Uh if I find a lot of issues I walk.......or have them corrected by the seller...so my $150 is my insurance.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top