82 Accord - stalls out once warm

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OceanRuns

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1982 Accord, 1.8, manual.

-When I got the vehicle, it would run. But, the operating temp idle was a little wonky. It would bounce around a bit. Then, one day it died.

- Now, it starts, runs at cold/high idle (3000+rpms - does that seem high?). It also seems to sometimes even rev up a bit from there.

-Once warm, the engine dies. Pressing the gas will not keep it running.

I changed the fuel filter, and tried a different fuel pump. I've also used some carb cleaner (just sprayed it in).

Problem persisted.

Thoughts?
 
Sounds like once the choke goes off,it dies out.That would indicate its running lean and the choke is richening it up.Maybe a vacuum leak,like a ruptured choke pull off or EGR or....
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
check compression but sounds electrical


Prior to this happening, I was able to drive on the freeway and it seemed to have all the power it should.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Sounds like once the choke goes off,it dies out.That would indicate its running lean and the choke is richening it up.Maybe a vacuum leak,like a ruptured choke pull off or EGR or....


The vehicle has no shortage of vacuum lines. LOL
 
You've gotta check for spark when it does it.

The newer hondas, 1990s vintage, had terrible distributors/ ignitors.
 
Could be an intake manifold gasket leak or somewhere else on the intake for that matter and yes also check vacuum hoses. Could be compression if it has super high milage but what is the mileage?
 
Oxygen sensor? The oxygen sensor is not used to determine AFR until the engine reaches a certain temperature. Given the year of your Honda, and the unusual emission controls they used, I am not sure if you even have an oxygen sensor. The other thing that sucks is that sometimes the California version of the car is different from the rest of the USA.

Coolant temperature sensor? Sometimes they become inaccurate, and the engine either stays in open loop, or enters closed loop too early. Again, sometimes the California model is different from the rest of the USA.

The distributor can be a problem, especially considering the age of your car. It seems that when a distributor fails on a Japanese engine, the only 2 options are to spend loads of money on a new one, or get a rebuild that will only last one year. You also would need a timing light to DIY repair it.

Sometimes when there is an external coil, only the coil fails, and they aren't expensive. They also need no special tools to replace. Some ignition coils work fine when the engine is cold, but heat makes the compromised wires develop an open circuit.

Diagnosing a vacuum related problem on those cars is a nightmare. dozens of hoses enter some control module, I'm not sure how those modules work, or how they are diagnosed. I also don't know if anybody sells new or rebuilt units.
 
Engine in 1982 Accord is still carb'ed, not EFI (EFI didn't came until late 1986, where 2 models of Accord appeared in the market; 1 with the extremely complicated (emissions related) carb'ed engine with lots of vacuum hoses; the other one is the 1st NA release of PGM-FI type EFI.

Check carb and/or vacuum line issues.

Also: while you are at it, check (engine warm) to see if your ignition module is giving sparks.

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
Engine in 1982 Accord is still carb'ed, not EFI (EFI didn't came until late 1986, where 2 models of Accord appeared in the market; 1 with the extremely complicated (emissions related) carb'ed engine with lots of vacuum hoses; the other one is the 1st NA release of PGM-FI type EFI.

Check carb and/or vacuum line issues.

Also: while you are at it, check (engine warm) to see if your ignition module is giving sparks.

Q.

Even though it has a carb engine, it may still have an oxygen sensor and a coolant temperature sensor. That is why I mentioned them.
 
Originally Posted By: 19jacobob93
Could be an intake manifold gasket leak or somewhere else on the intake for that matter and yes also check vacuum hoses. Could be compression if it has super high milage but what is the mileage?


In the 140s and came from a family that appears to take care of things. If it had low compression would that have been noticeable as a lack of power at freeway speeds (low horsepower engine). it seemed to perform well.
 
As far as checking spark while warm. Can I do that by myself?

So, to be clear, would I be check it once the vehicle stalls out (and then won't restart while warm)? Check it while cranking when the vehicle is warm?
 
Last edited:
Depending on where you are at, some Canadian models of 1981 or 82 engines on Accord 1.8 do not come with O2 sensor.

Back in those days, I am aware of Cali version of Accord where it comes with an emissions-regulated carb (with O2 sensor), but that was the only state that would require a tightly emissions-controlled carb.

I had been dealing with those carbs (emissions-regulated or non-regulated) type well into the early 90s. The last one I rebuilt was off of the Toy Tercel.

My parent's non-EFI carb'ed Isuzu I-Mark was a Nippon-Strongberg, with O2 sensor also (was an 86)

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: OceanRuns
As far as checking spark while warm. Can I do that by myself?

So, to be clear, would I be check it once the vehicle stalls out (and then won't restart while warm)? Check it while cranking when the vehicle is warm?


Yes. You need a spark plug tester like this: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline...SA20VNDHXSDHB2F

And this video explains how to use it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UyxRc2lCvk

It's trial and error. Start with the basics and move up to more complicated things. Since spark is about as basic as you can get, it's a fine place to start.

You could also ask at a more Honda centric forum like driveaccod.net for more specific solution from people with more experience with your engine.
 
You can check sparks by pulling out the boot, stick a spare spark plug (grounded to your engine block/chassis) and while having someone to crank it, watch for spark.

This can be performed while engine is warm and 1 of the 4 spark plug boots unplugged (even if engine manages to catch, it would only runs on 3 cyl).

Lastly: you need to find a manual specific to your engine/model or rely heavily on the sticker underneath the hood and a handheld vacuum gauge (Mitivac) to trace all the vacuum lines. While visible signs of bad vacuum rubber lines can be found and replaced relatively easily, vacuum motor based devices, such as those that detects the coolant, etc. maybe difficult to test unless you have a maual telling you what colour of the thermo-vacuum motor opens/closes @ approx. what temp.

remember: spark+ air+ fuel is what make an engine run. YOu miss one then the rest is out of the equation.


Lastly: some older gentlement may know how to deal with carb engines that are 33+yrs old. good luck finding help on accord boards.

Q.
 
The No. 1 reason for cold/hot problems for carburetor cars is the choke action, as the choke is pretty much the only thing that adjusts the the air - fuel mixture for proper cold, warm, and hot operation.

Start with an entirely cold engine (engine stopped).
Remove the air-cleaner cover.
Look at the choke position.
Pump the pedal four times.
Look at the choke position and verify that it's fully closed after pumping the pedal.
Start the car and verify that the choke slightly opens after one to five seconds.
When the engine warms up a little, verify that the choke opens more (above roughly 54 F).
When the engine is fully warm (above roughly 138 F), verify that the choke is fully open (90 degrees, fully vertical).

If any of the above behavior is incorrect, troubleshoot the choke diaphragms, vacuum connections, and thermostatic valves.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The No. 1 reason for cold/hot problems for carburetor cars is the choke action, as the choke is pretty much the only thing that adjusts the the air - fuel mixture for proper cold, warm, and hot operation.

Start with an entirely cold engine (engine stopped).
Remove the air-cleaner cover.
Look at the choke position.
Pump the pedal four times.
Look at the choke position and verify that it's fully closed after pumping the pedal.
Start the car and verify that the choke slightly opens after one to five seconds.
When the engine warms up a little, verify that the choke opens more (above roughly 54 F).
When the engine is fully warm (above roughly 138 F), verify that the choke is fully open (90 degrees, fully vertical).

If any of the above behavior is incorrect, troubleshoot the choke diaphragms, vacuum connections, and thermostatic valves.


You have a carb problem. The shade tree advice is all over the place, but this guy is letting you know where to look and what to look for if it is a manual choke and I hope it is. Yes, your 3k rpm idle is way too high. I had a Suzuki that exhibited the exact same symptoms, and I tried chasing the problem around forever. Sometimes it makes sense to save yourself the time and money and find a someone experienced with a Honda of your vintage (or anything with a similar type intake) and have them diagnose it.
 
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