Observation with DI engine

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Hey Everyone,

As many of you know some DI engines can make oil noticeably darker after just 1k into an OCI.
However I've started noticing this is no longer the case, at least for me. I checked the oil on my Sonata last week, perfectly light colored (2K into OCI). Now, I know color doesn't mean anything but it's something I found interesting.

I have changed my habits somewhat over the past year, I don't use remote start anymore, and never idle the car more than 30 seconds before taking off. Perhaps fuel dilution has been cut down? On a side note I've used PU, M1, and QSUD.

-Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: Swift101
On a side note I've used PU, M1, and QSUD.

-Thanks

So, can the speed of oil color change be linked to any particular product used?
 
I don't understand how idling can be an issue.

Isn't the fuel carefully calibrated to the changing demands of the engine?
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Swift101
On a side note I've used PU, M1, and QSUD.

-Thanks

So, can the speed of oil color change be linked to any particular product used?


I noticed the color stayed lighter when I ran 2 OCI's of 40 weight oils, I used PUE 5W-40 followed by M1 0W-40. I'm using QSUD 5W-30 now since I wanted to clear some of my stash out.
 
It also has to do with brand and additives.. some darken more than others. I had a ford 4.0sohc in my ranger that would darken anything within 1500-2000mi. I owned it since new

My focus duratech 2.0 would still be light amber at 5000miles.


Its a combination of engine and oil not sure that DI has That much to do with it. The FB25's also seem to start darkening oil around 1500miles in but not as bad as the ford 4.0sohc

There is also a difference between merely dark and that awful black goopy looking oil you see in neglected engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
It also has to do with brand and additives.. some darken more than others.

Yup. That's where I was going with this.
 
My DI has been very nice to oil. I use M1 and I hate myself everytime I dump the oil because it almost looks like the fresh T6/Delo. The only issue I found was consumption went up when I thinned the oil with 20wt to about 10cst (never doing that again). I idle my cars 10-30 minutes no such effects.
 
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
My DI has been very nice to oil. I use M1 and I hate myself everytime I dump the oil because it almost looks like the fresh T6/Delo. The only issue I found was consumption went up when I thinned the oil with 20wt to about 10cst (never doing that again). I idle my cars 10-30 minutes no such effects.


I haven't paid much attention to oil darkening; UOAs have shown that I can run M1 5W-30 in my Mazdaspeed for at least 7,500 miles.
 
Mine has lightened up as well, on the 2.0T. The Sonata is pretty light thus far. I've never experienced fuel smell.
 
Originally Posted By: CELICA_XX
I don't understand how idling can be an issue.

Isn't the fuel carefully calibrated to the changing demands of the engine?


+1 This is what I'd think as well.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: CELICA_XX
I don't understand how idling can be an issue.

Isn't the fuel carefully calibrated to the changing demands of the engine?


+1 This is what I'd think as well.


DI engines run crazy rich when cold to heat up the cats ASAP. I could easily see this being a problem and probably why car makers tell you not to idle to warm up the car.
 
Hmm. I generally let my Mazda 3 (Skyactiv) idle just long enough for the initial fast idle to kick down - about ten seconds. Maybe I shouldn't.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: CELICA_XX
I don't understand how idling can be an issue.

Isn't the fuel carefully calibrated to the changing demands of the engine?


+1 This is what I'd think as well.


DI engines run crazy rich when cold to heat up the cats ASAP. I could easily see this being a problem and probably why car makers tell you not to idle to warm up the car.


Doesn't every FI engine run rich when cold to warm up the catalysts? Don't think this is unique to DI engines.
 
My personal opinion is that we're into the second generation of DI designs so I don't automatically equate DI with the Audi/VW designs of 7-9 years ago. The manual for mine says not to idle excessively and try to start out within 20-30 seconds of starting it..which is what I do. Top Tier gas, low NOACK synthetic oil, and the occasional bottle of fuel cleaner..not that it effects the valve deposit issue as much as it cleans the fuel system which the DI is part of systemically. I've seen in print where some oil companies like Chevron say that they believe PEA treated gas WILL help with DI-related problems in a preventative maintenance sense as DI is not a total island unto itself...makes sense to me. If you use Quik-E-Mart gas in these engines, it might be more of an issue which is what the manufacturers are warning against.

I've seen some older BMW and Audi valve deposits after 30K miles that look like **** and I've seen some newer Toyota and Hyundai DI designs with 75K+ miles that don't seem to have these problems...at least to that level. Is that design, maintenance, good gas OR other and all of the above??
 
There are a lot of variables at work here. Consider that GDI engines produce more soot, so I have to wonder if that could contribute to oil darkening on some. Also some GDI's are now going to a hybrid port / GDI system. Toyota is the only one that I'm aware of using this, but there are probably others and possibly more going that way.
 
Originally Posted By: Danh


Doesn't every FI engine run rich when cold to warm up the catalysts? Don't think this is unique to DI engines.


Not to the same extent from what I can tell with my DI and port engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Danh
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: CELICA_XX
I don't understand how idling can be an issue.

Isn't the fuel carefully calibrated to the changing demands of the engine?


+1 This is what I'd think as well.


DI engines run crazy rich when cold to heat up the cats ASAP. I could easily see this being a problem and probably why car makers tell you not to idle to warm up the car.


Doesn't every FI engine run rich when cold to warm up the catalysts? Don't think this is unique to DI engines.


FWIW, its not unique to any engine DI or not, cat converter or not. Even older carbureted engines run rich when cold. Thats what the choke was for.
 
Originally Posted By: pruizgarcia
Wemay,

Where are you finding PU here in Florida. Cannot find it anywhere in the Tampa Bay area...


It was on clearance at PepBoys this past December for $2.50-$3/qt in 10w30, 5w40 and 0w40 viscosities. It's the non-PurePlus formula.
 
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