M1 5w-30, 6012 mi., Toyota Camry 3.0 V6

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2010 Toyota Camry V6 3.0L
Mobil One 5W-30
11 Month Service
99,050 Miles on Unit
Sample Date 11/22/14
Oil Filter Toyota
Air Filter Federated

5 Aluminum
1 Chromium
11 Iron
2 Copper
6 Lead
0 Tin
68 Molybdenum
0 Nickel
0 Manganese
0 Silver
0 Titanium
1 Potassium
40 Boron
17 Silicon
6 Sodium
1025 Calcium
630 Magnesium
621 Phosphorus
726 Zinc
1 Barium

SUS Visosity @ 210°F 55.3
cSt Visosity @ 100°C 8.86
Flashpoint °F 395
Fuel %: Antifreeze %: 0.0
Water %: 0.0
Insolubles%: 0.1
TBN 3.7
 
Forgot to mention from UOA post above:

Comments and or suggestions welcome.
This was a Blackstone Lab UOA
 
You can always go longer with M1
smile.gif
 
The last 3 liter in a Camry was in the early 2000s. Then came the 3.3 and then the 3.5. Either it's a 2001 or it has a 3.5.
 
This is very encouraging. My Avalon is currently filled with M1 5w30 and I was trying to decide whether to change at 5,000 or 7,500. I will do 7,500 with a UOA.
 
I would estimate 50/50 city / highway.

The viscosity being so low concerns me.

I can't decide if I need to try a thicker oil or brand. Suggestions welcome.
Wear was pretty good and I don't think it would get much better with thicker oil or brand etc.

I really liked the insolubles @ 0.1.
 
M1 oil is usually thicker than most other brands already with the 5w30 starting off @ 11 cSt vs ~10 cSt for PP.

The 1MZ engine is known as a sludge monster so maybe that's the reason for the excess shear (hot spots in the head could be overheating certain parts of the oil, making it more likely to shear). A longer interval would start to thicken the oil again as oxidation accumulates and causes sludge.

Personally I would reduce the interval to 5000 miles for 50/50 city/hwy driving especially on a higher mileage 1MZ just to be on the safe side, I've read a lot of posts from 1MZ owners that wouldn't dare go past 5k miles. Also make sure the PCV isn't clogged.
 
I usually go 5k miles or 6 months.....went 6k and 11 months this round.

I change the PCV at 30k miles.....

Best UOA I have had on this car was the old SM version of PU and I think it was 10w-30. Too hard to find now for me.
 
Since you're in louisiana and never experience sub zero temps, I would run any synthetic 10w30 including M1 HM if it's in the same price range as other synthetics.

10w30 synthetics usually don't need any VI additives which are the most likely to shear.

Personally I think Ramblejam's sample has already started to thicken up from oxidation. The extremely low flash point means there is quite a bit of fuel in the oil which will thin it out, so I believe the real viscosity without fuel contamination should be closer to 12 cSt, thicker than virgin. While running the oil that long did no seem to cause extra wear, it probably didn't help with varnish buildup inside the engine.
 
Hey bebop367, your car is doing great. Don't worry. I have 2006 camry v6 1mz-fe. 385,000 miles. Just change oil, and it will last along time.
 
My grandson run a pizza rout in Florida with his 2002 Camry 3.0. The engine has 195K and he does 10K OCI with M1 5-30. Engine runs great except for the rear valve cover gasket. Replaced twice.
 
Yeah, it gets very hot on the back bank of cylinders and the gasket doesn't last as long as the front. I've replaced mine several times.

Originally Posted By: tig1
Engine runs great except for the rear valve cover gasket. Replaced twice.
 
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Personally I think Ramblejam's sample has already started to thicken up from oxidation. The extremely low flash point means there is quite a bit of fuel in the oil which will thin it out, so I believe the real viscosity without fuel contamination should be closer to 12 cSt, thicker than virgin. While running the oil that long did no seem to cause extra wear, it probably didn't help with varnish buildup inside the engine.


Here's the word from Blackstone: "As for a trace of fuel, it's slightly more than 0.5%. A trace is the lowest level we are able to read with our flashpoint method. We can't accurately detect any fuel below 0.5%, which is why when no significant fuel is present we report it as span>

I'll let others decide if that corroborates your "quite a bit of fuel" assessment.

"I think"
"I believe"
"It probably"


When it comes to figuring out what's going on with an engine, supposition and theory is no replacement for objective data.

Look, the 1MZ crowd gets entirely bent out of shape when it comes to the topic of extended OCI's. There's much out there all over the internet on the subject, but in reality, causation can always be traced back to bargain bulk oil from 10+ years ago on 7,500 mile city-driving OCI's, and maintenance practices that can be best described as putting gas in the tank and taking it to the car wash.

As it stands, I've posted up a couple complete reports from Blackstone now (not saying that I have results and to take my word on it, or putting up unverifiable info, etc.) showing excellent wear for a daily-driver car that sees a mix of city and highway driving. As well, it continues to easily deliver fuel economy in excess of EPA numbers, is quiet as can be, and ZERO oil is added during those lengthy OCI's.

Nor does this engine experience any leakage from the valve cover gaskets - if and when that ever happens, and replacement is needed, I'll certainly take pictures and let you take a look at deposit accumulation.
 
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