Amsoil 10w30 MCT versus Mobil 1 AFE 0w30

[BusyLittleShop]

True to its racing intent Mr.Honda's race bred V4 sports gear driven
cams... so with more gears to shear the oil than your normal
pedestrian street bike I decided to test whether a motorcycle specific
oil produced better numbers than a Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO)...
Selected were Asmoil MCT 10w30 and Mobil 1 AFE 0w30... granted the
miles are low but they are miles not in moderation either more like
tracks speeds which simulates the distant my customers cover in a year
of racing or track days... my customers are consummate riders with enough
spare cash to afford to own any exotic homologated racer they desire
from the Golden Years of World Superbikes... namely Honda's RC30
RC45... Yamaha's SP1 R7... Kawaskai ZX7R... Ducati Desmosedici V4
They will ship their prized bikes to the Busy Little Shop for
either my engineered mods or trouble shooting...

You can see the wear and shear slightly favored the M1 but its up to you
whether you want to spend $64.75 OCI @ $12.95 qt for Amsoil or $27 OCI
@ $5.40 qt Mobil 1...

Guided by intellect instead of fear I'm staying with M1 0W30 because
its proving to meet and exceed my mileage expectations... show me an
actual UOA from another bike with gear driven cams with better shear
and wear numbers that cost the same $5.40 a qt as Mobil 1 Auto Oil
and I'll think about it...

Mobil 0w30

Amsoil 10w30

 

[abycat]

Looks pretty good. I'm not an amsoil fan but the Mobil looks like it does a bit better job.

 

[901Memphis]

It's interesting but now much can be gathered from just these two data points.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Comparing the 2 UOA's of Amsoil and M1, it's obvious that M1 is a better performance oil for this bike, the bonus is it costs much less and can be obtained at any auto part store and at Walmart too.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Comparing the 2 UOA's of Amsoil and M1, it's obvious that M1 is a better performance oil for this bike....


How is it obvious?

Amsoil was better with Pb.

I write that tongue and cheek.

These results are fairly useless - such a short run, different years apart, different seasons, different riding.....BITOG really has fallen.

 

[CT8]

Price is the killer on the boutique oils. Not much difference and both kept the parts separated.

 

[dernp]

Originally Posted By: CT8
Price is the killer on the boutique oils. Not much difference and both kept the parts separated.



+1.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Amsoil produces informative videos... go 6:00 in the rep names
Mobil 1 0w30 as their premium PAO abase stock for their oils...

 

[Reg# 43897]

I should hazard a guess that the miles of use on these samples render the test statistically insignificant. Not uninteresting mind you, but a bit more use might allow some statements to be able to be made. Like most, I seek out an affordable oil that will reasonably protect my expensive engines from avoidable wear. Am liking T5 these days but the M1 AFE seems appealing. Wll stick w/ the T5 for now. I can do A LOT w/ that one oil...

John.

 

[rossn2]

Why did it take 2-3 years for results to be posted on these UOA's???

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Originally Posted By: rossn2
Why did it take 2-3 years for results to be posted on these UOA's???


Mercy ross I did post the 0w30 UAO back in 2012... I didn't update because of the negative comments...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...Mob#Post2521370

 

[BigCahuna]

Why is the flashpoint down to 380f with only a trace amount of fuel noticed, with the Mobil 1 oil?. With only 700 miles on the oil I would think you would be adding oil before you went even 3k miles on that oil, and possibly gunking up the motor.,,

 

[sunruh]

a flash of 380 means there is way more than a trace!!!

we ALL know how it stands up to heat in a skillet on a gas range top

 

[Mackelroy]

you have more metal in 7 to 900 miles than I do at track speeds at triple that mileage.

That's why 30 weights and car oil , just say no

run 2500 miles and check the metals, then you'd see some numbers, you just got away with it cause the low miles on the oci.

triple that mileage and I bet the wear metals go right along with it.

 

[abycat]

I would try a 40wt just out of curiosity. Maybe even a 50wt.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
you have more metal in 7 to 900 miles than I do at track speeds at triple that mileage.


This was at track speeds and show me an actual UOA from another 4 cylinder with gear
driven cams with better shear and wear numbers that cost the same $5.40 a qt as Mobil 1
Auto Oil and I'll think about it...

RC45 Technical Features

[/URL]

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Originally Posted By: abycat
I would try a 40wt just out of curiosity. Maybe even a 50wt.


Its good to be curious but I'm staying with a 30wt because going to a 40wt there is a 3hp
penalty in unnecessary oil drag and with a 50wt there's 6hp penalty in unnecessary oil
drag... that's a significant amount of hp left on the table in unnecessary oil drag...
key word is unnecessary because running a 30 does not show up as increase wear... running
a freer flowing 30 flows more oil to the critical bearings... running a 30 works to lower
the over all temps... Honda states an owner can safely choose a 30 I've personally tested
this recommendation in Mr.RC45 for 17 years covering 95,000km with no difference in wear
rates...

I choose a 30wt because it gives the right flow at the normal operating
temperature of 212ºF of the engine and that would be the viscosity of
10 at operating temps... so that means for every 1000 rpms increase
Mr.RC45's oil pressure increases another 10 psi... a 30w flows more
oil at higher rpms which flows more oil between the critical bearings
which carries away more heat and I'm not wasting HP just pumping oil
through the blow off valve...

0w30 psi
1000 10
2000 20
3000 30
4000 40
5000 50
6000 60
7000 70
8000 80
9000 90
10000 99
11000 99 blow off by the pressure relief valve

0w40
1000 12
2000 24
3000 36
4000 48
5000 72
6000 84
7000 96
8000 99 blow off by the pressure relief valve
9000 99
10000 99
11000 99

15W50 psi
1000 15
2000 30
3000 45
4000 60
5000 75
6000 90
7000 99 blow off by the pressure relief valve
8000 99
9000 99
10000 99
11000 99


Mr.RC45 Oil Press Gauge shows the problem with oil... it doesn't want
to flow when its cold this is 0w30 at 112º resisting at 18 psi

The same 0w30 at 203F Oil is flowing 10 psi perfect

0w30 at 8000 rpms 82 Psi close enough to perfect...

 

[Mackelroy]

I know an engine tuner, who lives on the dyno and runs 15w50 weight in motorcycles. Don't you think he would see this 6 horse loss, and say Hey I'd be better off with 10w30 car oil.

My own top end runs on small motors with heavier weight oils show no such loss.

You should run a normal oci and see just how much metal you are shedding.

But at the shear and fuel dilution rate you aren't running an oil thats going to hold up to that, by your own Uoa's.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
I know an engine tuner, who lives on the dyno and runs 15w50 weight in motorcycles. Don't you think he would see this 6 horse loss, and say Hey I'd be better off with 10w30 car oil.


It don't have to be car oil to gain back 6 HP... any 100% synthetic motorcycle
specific 30wt will meet both his dyno and mileage expectations..

 

[Mackelroy]

I've ran the 10w30 redline, it was also fortified with 20w50, basically 2+1= 3 quart. When I tested it at 2500 miles it was solidly in the 30 weight range. and the flash point was very good 425 degree. Actually better than any test I'd ran, and metal counts were very low.


That showed me it was a very usable combination in that motor. Might try that and see what it does in your case.