Aluminum vs Copper heater cores

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007

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In looking to replace the heater core in my 71 Buick 350 Skylark I have come across numerous aluminum choices but NO copper, what gives? Is there a difference are all they all the same nowadays?
 
Copper/brass/solder heater cores are not compatible with modern coolants. Aluminum heater core will let you switch to extended-life coolants after you flush the system with distilled water.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Copper/brass/solder heater cores are not compatible with modern coolants. Aluminum heater core will let you switch to extended-life coolants after you flush the system with distilled water.
I agree but he needs to change his radiator if its copper also.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Copper/brass/solder heater cores are not compatible with modern coolants. Aluminum heater core will let you switch to extended-life coolants after you flush the system with distilled water.


Not problem at all with JD Coolguard or Coolguard II. It works perfectly in the old timers with mixed metals inc copper, brass and aluminum.

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/45190_ fb_lc_range_coolgard_II.htm

OP this will fit your Skylark. You do not have to change the radiator to use dissimilar metals in the cooling system.
This copper/brass units fits GTO, Oldsmobile, 442, Buick Skylark, and Nova, call them to be sure.

http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/store...1970-1971-1972/
 
Originally Posted By: 007
In looking to replace the heater core in my 71 Buick 350 Skylark I have come across numerous aluminum choices but NO copper, what gives? Is there a difference are all they all the same nowadays?


Why not have your original copper unit re-cored?

This assumes, however, that the unit you now have is indeed copper.

Any good radiator shop should be able to handle this.
 
If the OP has a copper/brass/solder radiator, then it makes sense to go with a copper/brass/solder heater core. He should avoid any coolant that contains 2-EHA or sebacate / sebacic acid (most extended-life coolants), as they can corrode the solder. Trav's suggestions look good.
 
Can't speak to the vintage Buick's spare availability , but in the vintage Mustang world there are both the copper/brass and the aluminum Varieties available. And the brass/copper ones don't cost $300 either.

Generally the aluminum ones available aren't as well made and I don't use them for that reason only.

Z
 
My 1971 Buick has a copper "Modine" radiator that was replaced awhile back. As far as the heater core goes nobody seems to have the copper in stock just aluminum. As far as warranty the both are the same. I do not want to fix the old one as it leaked for a reason, changing it is a real pain so under the circumstances I'd rather go new.
 
By the way, it's usually very difficult to replace heater cores. You may need to evacuate and refill the A/C, as it's usually not possible to replace the heater cores without disconnecting the A/C pipes. Therefore, you may need to take the car to an A/C shop.
 
When the radiator started leaking on my 71 Cutlass, I shopped around and found aluminum replacement radiators were $200 and copper/brass radiators were $400. I opted to repair my radiator. A solder joint had corroded after 25 years. Otherwise, the base materials were healthy.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
When the radiator started leaking on my 71 Cutlass, I shopped around and found aluminum replacement radiators were $200 and copper/brass radiators were $400. I opted to repair my radiator.

It's surprizing to learn that the old GM car parts are so expensive compared to the vintage Mustang. A good copper/brass radiator for a vintage Mustang can be had for under $200.

Z.
 
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