2015 3 Starting issue

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I have 6,600 miles on the car now and every once in awhile this car starts very strange. It sort of pulsates (if you're a drummer it sounds like triplets). It doesn't do it all the time, but it defintely does not sound normal. It did it again this morning. It sounded like it didn't want to catch on and run....any ideas?

The car otherwise runs perfect. Gas mileage is great and it's quite/smooth once running.


It's the 2.0L/6spd manual.
Not happy about it being the car is only 3 months old. I'd take it to the dealer but they would never be able to replicate it because it's so infrequent.
 
It's under warranty. When and if it breaks, the dealer will fix it. When it starts happening with regularity, have them check it out. It may be nothing or normal.
 
There is a small chance that the condition has thrown a code which the dealer could read and possibly address.

But other than that, I agree with bigt61 - just wait for it to get worse, so that the dealer can easily replicate it.

Also ask on some dedicated Mazda 3 forum to see if others have experienced something similar and what the solution was.
 
Oh....you should NOT wait until it gets worse. What kind of advice is that?

When you recognize a problem, it's always best to address it ASAP before it gets worse. Typically, that's the pattern..mechanical things run fine until they don't, and then you cannot count on them magically correcting themselves.

The dealer can check for a code, or they can check a tech bulletin..neither of which requires the actual symptom in their presence.

Get on the phone now and talk with a tech and see if either of these are applicable, don't trust advice from folks who dont have to suffer the consequences of their recommendations.
 
Originally Posted By: Noey
Oh....you should NOT wait until it gets worse. What kind of advice is that?

When you recognize a problem, it's always best to address it ASAP before it gets worse. Typically, that's the pattern..mechanical things run fine until they don't, and then you cannot count on them magically correcting themselves.

The dealer can check for a code, or they can check a tech bulletin..neither of which requires the actual symptom in their presence.

Get on the phone now and talk with a tech and see if either of these are applicable, don't trust advice from folks who dont have to suffer the consequences of their recommendations.


+1 this ^^^^^ plus you want to have documentation that the problem began during the warranty period.
 
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Yeah it's under warranty but sometimes they cant find it either or as they are famous for they write on the service order cannot duplicate everything working as designed... Lucky for you that you live in nj put up with this if they cant figure it out for under two years then contact me. Lemon law here is unbelievable you will get a new car for free if you win and its hard not to with the rite attorney and the best part is it costs you nothing not even postage !
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Good point, you're right.


Buster have you left the car at the dealership for a couple of days or so to allow them to test under varying conditions ?
 
I haven't, but that's a good idea. Going to call them.
 
Many newer cars seem to make rattles during cold starts until their hydraulic valve-timing actuators have the oil flowing normally.

Since it's a new car, do not attempt any repairs yourself other than routine maintenance. Take it to the dealer.

Or switch to TGMO 0W-20 SN and your cold-start problems will be eliminated once and for all.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
I have 6,600 miles on the car now and every once in awhile this car starts very strange. It sort of pulsates (if you're a drummer it sounds like triplets). It doesn't do it all the time, but it definitely does not sound normal. It did it again this morning. It sounded like it didn't want to catch on and run....any ideas?

The car otherwise runs perfect. Gas mileage is great and it's quite/smooth once running.


If it were my brand new Mazda doing that, the very first thing that I would do would be to remove all 4 spark plugs, make sure their gaps are correct, and then reinstall them, swapping the coils to different locations, and make sure everything is properly torqued down.

It could be something as simple as a loose plug, or an incorrect plug gap.

After that, I would look for common events when the problem occurs.
Does it only happen when the car is ice cold, or only during a warm restart?
What temperature range does this occur?
Does it only happen if your car is pointed uphill, or downhill?
Stuff like that.

Good luck.

BC.
 
Definitely bring it to the dealer and see if the ECU is
holding any "pending codes" (will not light the CEL because the issue occurs infrequently).

If not still have them write up a work order documenting your concern, even if they cannot duplicate it, make sure they enter the information into their computer system and give you a hard copy of the repair order. That way if something happens after the warranty period ends you will hae a very good chance of getting a good will repair.


I WOULD NOT ATTEMPT TO DO ANY WORK ON THE CAR YOURSELF!
YOU MAY VOID THE WARRANTY IF YOU DO ANYTHING RELATED TO ADDRESSING THE ISSUE!!!!!
 
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Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Many newer cars seem to make rattles during cold starts until their hydraulic valve-timing actuators have the oil flowing normally.

Since it's a new car, do not attempt any repairs yourself other than routine maintenance. Take it to the dealer.

Or switch to TGMO 0W-20 SN and your cold-start problems will be eliminated once and for all.


Unless, of course, the ambient temperature is really low, like the -20F we saw here Tuesday morning.
In that case, M1 AFE would be the thinner oil.
 
Did you buy a new car to NOT work on?

Dealer service departments have a reason for being there.

Give them the work.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Many newer cars seem to make rattles during cold starts until their hydraulic valve-timing actuators have the oil flowing normally.

Since it's a new car, do not attempt any repairs yourself other than routine maintenance. Take it to the dealer.

Or switch to TGMO 0W-20 SN and your cold-start problems will be eliminated once and for all.


M1 EP 0w-20 and AFE 0w-20 both have better base stocks and superior cold flow to TGMO. Not sure if Mazda requires any approvals for warranty, but if they do, that's yet another consideration for oil selection.

TGMO is thinner above 0C.

I highly doubt his oil selection is in any way related to the issue at hand. It sounds like he needs the dealer to look at it.
 
buster,
I'd advise to go down the TGMO route too, but to take a staged approach. From what I've read here, if you buy a quart, and put it in the trunk, you may start to see benefits immediately.

But if you carry a quart with you when you go to see the dealer regarding your problem, he will be forced to behave truthfully and honestly in any dealings.

j/k

but I've had dodgy ignition system issues which are intermittent, depending on hot/cold, load/unloaded as to when they cause the misfire/failure.

Get it to the dealer, get the document trail started.

Worst ever was my parent's Nissan Pulsar, that fried a number of computers...after the warranty was up (I called the general Australian Law that warranty on a replacement item resets the clock, and they didn't fight, but the problem was documented for years)...Dad had to sit half a block up, and "wiggle" the wiring harness for 10 minutes before driving in with the "fault that wasn't there"
 
I agree with Big61 since you are not close to the end of the waraanty. Could be as simple as you got some water in the gas or just bad gas that will take awhile to use up. ed
 
What temperatures does it happen at? My brother's 2012 3 with the previous generation Skyactiv 2.0 does some funny things on really cold startups, say below 30*F or so.
 
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I put in M1 EP0w20 and the engine is quieter than it was on the hi VI OE 0w20.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
What temperatures does it happen at? My brother's 2012 3 with the previous generation Skyactiv 2.0 does some funny things on really cold startups, say below 30*F or so.


I'd say when it's below 20F. It's not an oil issue. Doesn't happen often.
 
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