Get a pressure bleeder, its the only way to go...
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Brake Fluid Exchange Cost?
- Thread starter lancerplayer
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Originally Posted By: andyd
1. Make sure the bleeders are free.
2.Buy a qt of fluid. The higher the boiling point the better.
3. Buy 2 feet of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder. Scrounge a 6 oz. container.
4. Pour a couple of inches fluid into the clean container. Submerge one end of the tubing and hook the other to the bleeder.
5. Open a bleeder. I kneel outside the car and pump the pedal with my right hand. This way, I can watch and listen for bubbles. Top the MC off after a few pumps.
You do not want to empty the MC at any point in the process.
If I'm replacing a line or something, I keep the top off the MC and let it drip. If the completed brake work doesn't drip freely when the bleedr opens, the system has air in it still. If you still cant get flow , there is a leak somewhere
Step 1 is suck out fluid in MC first so you are pulling fresh fluid thru the system.
1. Make sure the bleeders are free.
2.Buy a qt of fluid. The higher the boiling point the better.
3. Buy 2 feet of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder. Scrounge a 6 oz. container.
4. Pour a couple of inches fluid into the clean container. Submerge one end of the tubing and hook the other to the bleeder.
5. Open a bleeder. I kneel outside the car and pump the pedal with my right hand. This way, I can watch and listen for bubbles. Top the MC off after a few pumps.
You do not want to empty the MC at any point in the process.
If I'm replacing a line or something, I keep the top off the MC and let it drip. If the completed brake work doesn't drip freely when the bleedr opens, the system has air in it still. If you still cant get flow , there is a leak somewhere
Step 1 is suck out fluid in MC first so you are pulling fresh fluid thru the system.
at my shop $89.99 gets you 32 ounces of brake fluid flushed through your car with a vacuum bleeder. I've noticed that if using a vacuum bleeder and you take the line off of the bleeder you may get some reversion and air may travel back into the lines.one way that I found to counteract this is to let it gravity bleed until the fluid drops free after I bleed each corner. some of the tech publications have warned against pedal bleeding or at least have warned to be very careful while doing it. If you have a week or a moderate master cylinder and you press the brake past the point of typical travel you may end up causing a tear or rip in the master cylinders seals
JHZR2
Staff member
Id figure an hour of labor. Mon a lift it's maybe ten minutes of work for one guy, five for the other who is doing the pumping.
Since you have a Honda, you should consider using genuine Honda brake fluid only.
Some Hondas and Toyotas were built with inferior quality internal rubber parts in the brake system that may degrade rapidly if you don't use genuine brake fluid.
Some Hondas and Toyotas were built with inferior quality internal rubber parts in the brake system that may degrade rapidly if you don't use genuine brake fluid.
I prefer to DIY my brake fluid, because I know exactly what grade of brake fluid I am getting. Some chain I worked for used the cheapest DOT3 there was, and it would turn dark brown after one year. DOT4 was only used on cars that required it, and there was a significant price increase to the customer.
Typically: Cheap DOT3 flush $90
Some kind of DOT4 $120
So I use Valvoline DOT4 on non-abs systems, it says clean for at least 2 years, and costs $7-$8 per quart. On ABS brakes, I use Pentosin DOT4LV because the low viscosity is supposed to make the ABS cycle more quickly. I pay $15-$17 per liter, and it stays clean for at least 2 years.
Typically: Cheap DOT3 flush $90
Some kind of DOT4 $120
So I use Valvoline DOT4 on non-abs systems, it says clean for at least 2 years, and costs $7-$8 per quart. On ABS brakes, I use Pentosin DOT4LV because the low viscosity is supposed to make the ABS cycle more quickly. I pay $15-$17 per liter, and it stays clean for at least 2 years.
The one man pump way will put air in the wheel cylinder. It gets sucked in around the threads of the bleeder. If you use speed bleeders, they have coating on the threads so that will not happen.
Second, pumping like that, the cups in the master cylinder travel into places they do not normally travel, if there is corrosion in there, they get shredded, and fail a few weeks later.
I vacuum bleed with a miti vac, works great.
Rod
Second, pumping like that, the cups in the master cylinder travel into places they do not normally travel, if there is corrosion in there, they get shredded, and fail a few weeks later.
I vacuum bleed with a miti vac, works great.
Rod
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
Can you cut it out? Looks like every time a subject comes up, you are peddling BG products.
What is your problem with BG
? If you don't like my advice than disregard it. I recommend BG products because they work and they provide a warranty to back it up. BG fluids are some of the best on the market, and they are priced competitively. Sounds pretty good to me.
Can you cut it out? Looks like every time a subject comes up, you are peddling BG products.
What is your problem with BG
Originally Posted By: tireguy99
We do BG service at my shop for $79
That is a good deal!
We do BG service at my shop for $79
That is a good deal!
If you spray bleeder plugs with something like Eastwood rust inhibitor when new, you won't ever have a problem with rusted bleeder plugs. Or anything else you might want to protect. Some of that product has been on the underside of my Camry for going on eleven years. Not pushing Eastland products. I believe Rustoleum now has a similar product.
What the heck are you talking about? Do you accuse everyone who enjoys certain products of being affiliated with the corporations are do you just hate BG? As of now, it sounds like you are trolling.
A lot of the chain stores AND now even dealers are using a complete system type of machine to do this, which does NOT allow them to use customer supplied fluid due to them having to actually scan the bar code on the supplied machine manufacturer's bottle in order to do the service.
I've even asked some of them IF they could just flush out my brake system with the supplied stuff, and then put MY Ate Typ 200 into those bottles and scan them as if they were the supplied product.
ALL have said they will not do this.
I've even asked some of them IF they could just flush out my brake system with the supplied stuff, and then put MY Ate Typ 200 into those bottles and scan them as if they were the supplied product.
ALL have said they will not do this.
Originally Posted By: ragtoplvr
The one man pump way will put air in the wheel cylinder. It gets sucked in around the threads of the bleeder. If you use speed bleeders, they have coating on the threads so that will not happen.
Second, pumping like that, the cups in the master cylinder travel into places they do not normally travel, if there is corrosion in there, they get shredded, and fail a few weeks later.
I vacuum bleed with a miti vac, works great.
Rod
OOps , i forgot the dab of grease to seal the bleeder.
The one man pump way will put air in the wheel cylinder. It gets sucked in around the threads of the bleeder. If you use speed bleeders, they have coating on the threads so that will not happen.
Second, pumping like that, the cups in the master cylinder travel into places they do not normally travel, if there is corrosion in there, they get shredded, and fail a few weeks later.
I vacuum bleed with a miti vac, works great.
Rod
OOps , i forgot the dab of grease to seal the bleeder.
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