Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: Scott_Tucker
The problem is the injectors. That spider fuel injection was terrible and this is a known problem. Replace all the injectors, not just the ones you think are bad or you'll regret it the third time you do the job.
Originally Posted By: Trav
It probably has a bad spider. You can upgrade these old units to a modern electronic hybrid unit.
Don't bother with rebuilds or trying to get this one rebuilt, they were junk when they were made. You cant fix broke.
Let me know though PM if you need one.
Hey guys- it looks like he already replaced it?
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
What I have done- New Distributor and cap. New Spider. New plugs. Swapped coil and wires from another great running 4.3 with no help. Also was told that the temperature sensor could be it so i replaced that with no help.
O/P- you were talking about swapping parts with a good running 4.3- I saw mention of MAP sensor, did you mean MAF sensor? If you haven't swapped it yet, you can try unplugging it. They don't always kick a code out and can cause lots of problems.
Did you replace the coil wire too with the coil? Seen lots of those burn through.
Have also seen leaky intake gaskets (both from the top and bottom) cause similar issues. A scan tool can point you in the right direction fuel trims.
Read the barometric pressure with the scan tool too.
Checking the EGR is a good suggestion as well. This will likely show up in the fuel trims also.
If you did replace the distributor, you'll need to have the timing set- it's called cam retard. This done with the aid of a scan tool. The typical low dollar ones won't allow you to set it. You'll need a Tech 2 or tool truck unit to read it.
Ok i bought two same year and model pickups.they were both fleet pickups. Both had random misfire codes. The first pickup was clearly the distributor. I pulled it and the teeth were sheared. I replaced the distributor and the first truck was fixed. No codes and ran great.
I then turned to truck #2. Distributor was worn, had play in the shaft, so i replaced it along with cap and button rotor etc. No help. I then took all the wires from truck 1 and no help. I replaced all plugs..no help. I pulled the plenum and noticed fuel in the valley along with several leaking poppets. I then bought a new spider and installed. No help. I was told that coolant sensor may cause problem. Installed new..no help. I swapped MAF no help. I swapped coil. no help. MAP sensor..swapped no help.
I am still unknown on cat clogged on that bank. I pulled the 02 sensor to let it breathe better but it didnt affect anything. Heat gun showed 90 degree difference between pre and post cat.
I am unknown on intake gaskets, and ECM.
First I have heard about the distributor replacement procedure you listed. Its very tricky to get the distributor lined up correctly with the timing marks on this pickup...actually its pretty tough. I dont know if your procedure is the same for this engine...
EGR. i havent looked into this yet.
Originally Posted By: Scott_Tucker
The problem is the injectors. That spider fuel injection was terrible and this is a known problem. Replace all the injectors, not just the ones you think are bad or you'll regret it the third time you do the job.
Originally Posted By: Trav
It probably has a bad spider. You can upgrade these old units to a modern electronic hybrid unit.
Don't bother with rebuilds or trying to get this one rebuilt, they were junk when they were made. You cant fix broke.
Let me know though PM if you need one.
Hey guys- it looks like he already replaced it?
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
What I have done- New Distributor and cap. New Spider. New plugs. Swapped coil and wires from another great running 4.3 with no help. Also was told that the temperature sensor could be it so i replaced that with no help.
O/P- you were talking about swapping parts with a good running 4.3- I saw mention of MAP sensor, did you mean MAF sensor? If you haven't swapped it yet, you can try unplugging it. They don't always kick a code out and can cause lots of problems.
Did you replace the coil wire too with the coil? Seen lots of those burn through.
Have also seen leaky intake gaskets (both from the top and bottom) cause similar issues. A scan tool can point you in the right direction fuel trims.
Read the barometric pressure with the scan tool too.
Checking the EGR is a good suggestion as well. This will likely show up in the fuel trims also.
If you did replace the distributor, you'll need to have the timing set- it's called cam retard. This done with the aid of a scan tool. The typical low dollar ones won't allow you to set it. You'll need a Tech 2 or tool truck unit to read it.
Ok i bought two same year and model pickups.they were both fleet pickups. Both had random misfire codes. The first pickup was clearly the distributor. I pulled it and the teeth were sheared. I replaced the distributor and the first truck was fixed. No codes and ran great.
I then turned to truck #2. Distributor was worn, had play in the shaft, so i replaced it along with cap and button rotor etc. No help. I then took all the wires from truck 1 and no help. I replaced all plugs..no help. I pulled the plenum and noticed fuel in the valley along with several leaking poppets. I then bought a new spider and installed. No help. I was told that coolant sensor may cause problem. Installed new..no help. I swapped MAF no help. I swapped coil. no help. MAP sensor..swapped no help.
I am still unknown on cat clogged on that bank. I pulled the 02 sensor to let it breathe better but it didnt affect anything. Heat gun showed 90 degree difference between pre and post cat.
I am unknown on intake gaskets, and ECM.
First I have heard about the distributor replacement procedure you listed. Its very tricky to get the distributor lined up correctly with the timing marks on this pickup...actually its pretty tough. I dont know if your procedure is the same for this engine...
EGR. i havent looked into this yet.
