Brake Fluid Exchange Cost?

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What can I expect to pay for a brake fluid exchange on my Accord? A ballpark estimate works for me.

Also, is this something you would go to the Honda dealer for? Or would any "chain" garage perform the task correctly?

What would you do in your opinion?
 
A dealer is going to overcharge you, significantly, for the service but likely do it right.

A chain might be quicker and cheaper, but they are likely to put transmission fluid or motor oil in the MC. It has happened.

DIY or bring it to a trusted indy mechanic.
 
Originally Posted By: lancerplayer
What can I expect to pay for a brake fluid exchange on my Accord? A ballpark estimate works for me.

Also, is this something you would go to the Honda dealer for? Or would any "chain" garage perform the task correctly?

What would you do in your opinion?


Learn to do it yourself. You can get a gallon of Brake fluid from WM for under $20. Brake Fluid should be replaced every 2 years. I bought a motive power bleeder, but I use my son to help press the pedal via the 2 man bleed. Make sure you don't snap your bleeder screws otherwise, it's going cost a bit more than $20. ;-)

Does your accord take DOT 3?

Regards, JC.
 
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You can do it yourself with just one 6 pt wrench. Open them one by one and let them gravity bleed. Its slow but will work and no chance of air getting in if you keep the reservoir filled. Put a short hose over the bleeder screw so as not to make a mess with brake fluid.

To save some hassle, squirt PB Blaster on the bleeder screws a day before and 5 minutes before. Even if a shop does the work.

Typically a snapped bleeder screw is a new caliper.

Only use 6 pt wrenches on the bleeder.
 
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My local shop wanted $70 to change out the brake fluid. I'm currently doing it myself. Cost $7 or so for the fluid.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
A chain might be quicker and cheaper, but they are likely to put transmission fluid or motor oil in the MC. It has happened.

If a shop is that incompetent, they shouldn't be doing ANY automotive work.
 
Brought in 32oz jug of brake fluid to toyota and they charged me 60$
 
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I watched few youtube videos before I started doing my own brake fluid exchange. One of the videos I was watched was a dealership technician who claimed some of his co-worker dealership technicians simply sucked the fluid out of the MC, added new fluid and did nothing with the bleeders or fluid in the lines, just lazy. Aside from the cost savings of doing it myself, I know I'm not getting scammed.
 
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We charge 1hr labor plus fluid. The Accord is a pretty simple vehicle to bleed - just have to follow the Honda sequence of LF RF RR LR, no scan tool needed.

Be sure to ask if they're usinf a pressure bleeder or a vacuum style one. I've found that the Vacula style units will cause some amount of air to enter the system (around the bleeder threads). If they vacuum bleed they should follow up a few pumps (2-man style) on each corner.
 
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Originally Posted By: The Critic
We charge 1hr labor plus fluid. The Accord is a pretty simple vehicle to bleed - just have to follow the Honda sequence of LF RF RR LR, no scan tool needed.

Be sure to ask if they're usinf a pressure bleeder or a vacuum style one. I've found that the Vacula style units will cause some amount of air to enter the system (around the bleeder threads). If they vacuum bleed they should follow up a few pumps (2-man style) on each corner.

I bleeded the brake in my cars many times the last 12-15 years using Mityvac 7201, never had air goes back into the brake system via the bleeder threads. Brake fluid is vacuumed into the Mityvac reservoir and air around the bleeder threads is vacuumed into the reservoir too, noway air can go opposite direction back into the brake system.
 
Originally Posted By: wormwood1978
I watched few youtube videos before I started doing my own brake fluid exchange. One of the videos I was watched was a dealership technician who claimed some of his co-worker dealership technicians simply sucked the fluid out of the MC, added new fluid and did nothing with the bleeders or fluid in the lines, just lazy. Aside from the cost savings of doing it myself, I know I'm not getting scammed.


When I had my last Subaru in for warranty work I asked how much it would cost to bleed the brakes for me (it was 2-3 years old and hadn't been done, and I didn't have the time.) They quoted me such a low price I almost immediately agreed, but did ask one more question: What does that get me?

For forty-something dollars, he said they siphon out the master cylinder reservoir and refill it - that's it. I declined the service.
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: wormwood1978
I watched few youtube videos before I started doing my own brake fluid exchange. One of the videos I was watched was a dealership technician who claimed some of his co-worker dealership technicians simply sucked the fluid out of the MC, added new fluid and did nothing with the bleeders or fluid in the lines, just lazy. Aside from the cost savings of doing it myself, I know I'm not getting scammed.


When I had my last Subaru in for warranty work I asked how much it would cost to bleed the brakes for me (it was 2-3 years old and hadn't been done, and I didn't have the time.) They quoted me such a low price I almost immediately agreed, but did ask one more question: What does that get me?

For forty-something dollars, he said they siphon out the master cylinder reservoir and refill it - that's it. I declined the service.


Incredible! Could do the same yourself in two minutes, a $2 turkey baster and $5 in DOT 3 Supertec fluid
 
Pedal pump is the way to go. On my cars i tried pressure bleeding but it simply would not push any fluid out at all.
 
If you are inclined to do it yourself, go to speedbleeder.com and get some of their bleeder screws that have check valves in them - fluid and air come out but the check valve prevents air and old fluid being sucked back in - these things make flushing brake fluid a very quick one person job.
 
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Originally Posted By: wormwood1978
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
When I had my last Subaru in for warranty work I asked how much it would cost to bleed the brakes for me (it was 2-3 years old and hadn't been done, and I didn't have the time.) They quoted me such a low price I almost immediately agreed, but did ask one more question: What does that get me?

For forty-something dollars, he said they siphon out the master cylinder reservoir and refill it - that's it. I declined the service.
Incredible! Could do the same yourself in two minutes, a $2 turkey baster and $5 in DOT 3 Supertec fluid

Large shampoo pump is free, a small bottle DOT-3 brake fluid is about $3 and can be used to fill 2 reservoirs, so each car costs $1.5.

To completely bleed a brake system a quart is needed and the cost is about $6-8.

Bleeding brake fluid is very easy and fast with right tool(s), the problem is raise/lower the car and remove/reinstall the wheels.
 
You can do this yourself for the cost of a quart of brake fluid.
It really doesn't matter in what order you do the exchange, since you'll never allow the MC reservoir to run dry so no air will be introduced to the system.
You can gravity flush or pump the pedal.
Your choice.
Just allow brake fluid to run through until it comes out clean at each corner and you're done.
Brake hydrualics are not that complicated, unless you have something like a Prius.
 
1. Make sure the bleeders are free.
2.Buy a qt of fluid. The higher the boiling point the better.
3. Buy 2 feet of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder. Scrounge a 6 oz. container.
4. Pour a couple of inches fluid into the clean container. Submerge one end of the tubing and hook the other to the bleeder.
5. Open a bleeder. I kneel outside the car and pump the pedal with my right hand. This way, I can watch and listen for bubbles. Top the MC off after a few pumps.
You do not want to empty the MC at any point in the process.

If I'm replacing a line or something, I keep the top off the MC and let it drip. If the completed brake work doesn't drip freely when the bleedr opens, the system has air in it still. If you still cant get flow , there is a leak somewhere
 
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