2001 Corolla filter and oil recommendations

[Pesca]

Originally Posted By: Stewie
Originally Posted By: Pesca
Hi,

My colleague came at home with motomaster synthetic oil (shell) 5w-30, despite me asking for a conventional oil. He listened to the canadian tire salesman... his choice.

He also got a Tough guard oil filter, I believe (orange can with black grippy top). At least, he got the longer one for the Camry that I told him to buy.

We will change the oil in 6 months and see what next at that time. But it is not an oil burner... for now.

I tried to check in the fill hole but could not see anything as there is a small sheetmetal which limits the sight.


I too would have suggested Synthetic, -30C in winters aint no joke.

But since you say 6 months may summer one day come or jump right to fall.


Yes, maybe we will get a summer soon... let us keep hope.

If everything goes well, no oil consumption, I will propose him to put the motomaster synthetic 5w-20 oil that I have in my stash for the six month of next winter.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: sw99
Originally Posted By: virginoil
13 years old with 190000 miles this is a well run in seasoned soldier...................
Forget the BITOG 5w-20 grade hype in this instance based on the history of vehicle.

It's actually got 120,000 miles I believe.


Your right I quoted the kms instead of the miles.

My comments still stand and ignore the temptation to perform experimentation on behalf of BITOG.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

The oil consuming problems these engines have can not be cured by HM oils or cleaners. Once those oil drainback holes in the pistons are clogged, that's it. Once there is no flow through the holes there is no way for any kind of cleaning product to do its job. The only real fix is a teardown and hands-on cleaning.

I say this because if your 1.8 engine is not consuming oil (yet), then using a quality oil with a reasonable OCI is your best protection from that starting. Don't go cheap, and don't extend the OCIs.

Also, the timing chain tensioner on the back of the block is a known leaking point. The O-ring that seals it behind the mounting plate gets old and loses its elasticity. Replacements are cheap and the job isn't very hard as long as directions are followed exactly.