Battery terminal recommendations?

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Already wrote out the thing here:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/lc-2000-20...tml#post3150321
"The negative battery terminal is starting to get corroded, and is loose. I have to jiggle the cable to get it to start. I'm shopping for battery terminals now. I've read that I'm going to have to strip the battery wires to get rid of the corrosion (but it's mild). I'd like to find some terminals that aren't junk. I've seen some that are $36 for a set, some junk ones that are $8 for a set.

There's another issue with starting that I haven't posted about, partly because it's likely the three belts that need to be replaced: the engine turns over once or twice, then stalls; i.e. *turns key* *electronic hum* *putt putt* *silence* It's done this when it's -10 to 10 F. Right now I've been researching every failure with the '03 Accent and trying to gather all of the parts and equipment I need. It's starting to creep into the $600 range. I plan to get everything, then do a marathon and replace every component I can at once. It's going to take a while to figure out what does not need replacement or is going to fail soon.

I'd like to know what the AWG is for the battery cables. Might be better protection against corrosion if I replace the cables at the same time. Someone on Amazon said that Pico military style terminals with lug rings crimped onto the battery cables would be effective. I should mention that there are no felt pads (to collect moisture, I guess), and the positive terminal is the only one that has a plastic hood."
(I've read what ikilledbarbie wrote in reply, I'm going to watch the service videos later).

What I really need to replace are the wire terminal connectors--the negative is already rusty and loose, and is a basic junky design. Maybe I can get by without replacing the wires, but for the Pico terminals at least, it sounds like I'm going to have to replace the lug rings on the wires. I just figured I should replace the wires while I'm at it if they aren't too expensive. If it turns out the starter motor is causing stalls, this project creep is going to get even creepier.

Might be nice to have recommendations for battery terminal anti-corrosion spray brands, instead of using whatever happened to be available at the store ten years ago and has been in the garage ever since. Same with anti-moisture components (e.g. hoods and felt disks).
 
i wouldn't think the gauge would be anymore then 4 to 6 gauge wire.


you can find ones that either crimp on or solder on.

or the ones where you lay the wire on and its clamped on, I've used those plenty of times.

sometimes you can get away with reusing part the old terminal if its part of the clamp thats bolted on you can cut off that part, enlarge the hole and buy a terminal with a post and just slide it over the post and put a nut on it.
 
CRC 0523, NOCO NCP-2, Permatex 80370, they're all good. All will need to be done on occasion, how often depends on how much your battery vents and environmental conditions. Clean the battery well with a scrub brush, baking soda and warm water. Leave some baking soda behind to counteract future sulfuric acid venting.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=battery+terminal+spray

Any brand of felt disc will do. Buy a small quantity and replace them whenever you have the terminals off.

If the terminal is corroded, the cable that leads to it may be as well. Before I put together all my cable making gear, I preferred to buy a terminal with 8" or so of cable attached, and splice it in with solder covered with heat shrink. That gave me a nice professional molded-in terminal, and got the connection back to where the copper was still fresh.

http://www.amazon.com/East-Penn-8868-Con...repair+++splice
 
If it were my car I would remove the cable and bring it up to the auto parts store and I have them match the wire with a prefabricated positive and negative. They run $20 each and have a factory crimp and a good seal.
As to Hyundai cars of that vintage, take a long look at your valve cover gasket. Take the engine cover off and get eye level with the gasket they form 1/4 inch cracks and you can see the rockers!
 
What about calling the dealer and getting a price on one? You may be surprised.

EDIT: I found pn. 37215-25000 at an online retailer for $47.74- it looks to be a harness with both the positive and negative cables. You may well find it cheaper at another retailer.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Shim the loose terminal with a bent penny and maybe a new pinch bolt.

I'd rather stay away from any DIY fixes of this variety. Historically they haven't worked as well for me as replacing the worn out components.

@HangFire, I don't understand how that battery harness is supposed to work. Has anyone made a tutorial on how to install it? I haven't had much success soldering things. I probably ought to buy a soldering station or hot air solder station eventually. I use a basic soldering iron with a half-melted iron for projects when I need to.
This YouTube user made a tutorial on how to make your own cables and purchase cable parts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkMdlPsBxkc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1bnHu14...tion_2673773359

@hansj3, I think what I want to do is buy the battery terminal connectors, the lug rings, the harness, the cables seperately. Seems like I could get better quality buying piecemeal...or at least buy the connectors seperately from the harness, cables, and lug rings. I can get away with re-using the plastic cowling.

Tangent on project creep:
Right now the loose negative battery connector terminal is the biggest issue with my Accent, since I'm having to wiggle the cable almost every time I start my car. I could buy one for $6 and forget the whole project creep with the cables. But I want to be careful with this car and get things right the first time. It's rehearsal for maintaining a nicer car, I guess.

Fluid levels are probably going to demand fills soon, but I want to stay away from that because I plan on doing a drain and fill for all of them since I'm switching brands. But I want to stay away from the drain/fill until I know what tubing or pumps I should replace because I want to avoid contaminating the new fluids with particulates from old tubes and I want to eliminate any leaks present while there's no fluid in the system. I've still got to research coolant/anti-freeze, spark plugs, cabin air filters, and winshield washer fluid. I've got my choices narrowed down to two picks with engine air filters in another thread. Probably going with 0W-20 Mobil 1 AFE for oil.

The three belt replacement (along maybe with the water pump while I'm at it whether or not it needs it, because it takes almost two hours to get to it to replace it) is the third biggest issue, or a tie for second priority--the belts are cracked and there's a squeak somewhere. I'm procrastinating until I know more about other parts in the vicinity that need to be replaced, and because it is a gigantic project with dozens of parts involved and will require my typing every step out and asking questions so I don't break the engine with mistiming (user gereral1 has a series on it). Maybe it ought to be priority one, but it's too much project to handle right now.

The brake squeak is fourth (don't ask--I'm not ready to start researching greases yet).

Headlight alignment is fifth.

Reducing rust is sixth.
 
Negative (ground) terminals usually come permanently attached to the ground cable. If OEM ground cable (negative cable) is not available or too expensive, I'm sure you can replace it with a generic cable that costs $10. Do not bother replacing the captive terminal or repairing the cable, which probably won't work well.

O'Reilly $7.49 part:

bt1leadbc.jpg


OEM part:

365234418.png
 
The O'reilly part above, the ring terminal, not the battery post clamp, is stamped steel over the copper cable, with a hole drilled through it.

Not low resistance. Dissimilar metals make for nice corrosion and even more resistance in short order. Avoid.

For those of you with a bit of overkill in your blood, or with a heavy aversion to halfassery, quality battery cables can be made to order with top quality wire and terminations for less than you'd expect, with free shipping.

I have a hydraulic crimper The Junky HF one with the undersize dies, and my important future cables will be made from this outfit.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly


Here is a set of those stamped steel ring terminals cut off those cheap store bought cables, sticking to a magnet:

APstoresbatterycable_zps94f3dcde.jpg


I had 2 4awg cables in parallel, same length. One cable had these stamped steel ring terminals, one has some quality tinned copper ring terminals. 90% of the current chose to flow through the cable tinned copper terminals, and after I cut off these steel cables and crimped on the tinned copper ring terminals, the load was shared 50/50.

The stamped steel ring terminals should be considered a temporary 'get me home' type of fix, but if you love your car do it right or do it twice.
 
I strongly disagree. OEM is built to a price point and cabling can be made much better. If OEM was the end all be all, the OP would not have the issue he now has.

Whether anything better than OEM is needed is certainly debatable.

I bet genuinedealz.com can custom make a cable with better cable and terminations for ~ half of what OEM would charge.
 
Last year I had a problem of slow cranking in the winter. Even after cleaning all terminals, both clamps and the other ends, and even replacing the battery with a new one, I still had horrobly slow cranking. A new starter solved the problem.

Something to consider.
 
I see no reason for OEM battery cables or terminals to fail unless they are abused or mistreated, or some shop replaces them with cheap aftermarket ones just to make money.

The OEM ground cable for my car is really high-quality. I did break the little bolt (8 or 9 mm socket?) that attaches the thinner auxiliary wire to the side of the car but that was due to me overtorquing the little bolt. I ended up attaching the auxiliary wire to some other small bolt near the area, as I couldn't remove the broken bolt from the original hole.
 
Gokhan, that pic is for Toyota vehicles. Everyone else recommending OEM parts, great, but I need a link to the OEM part; Hyundai hasn't documented their parts specs well; most of the sites I'm finding list the part and no other information about it.

I like the idea of a company specifically geared towards electrical wiring for vehicles. I need to know exactly what I'm supposed to use for the '03 Accent: the cable length, guage (Advance Auto Parts displays 4 AWG as compatible), diameter of lug rings, and which cables are included. I'm probably going to buy the terminal clamps seperately in order to pick higher quality ones (GenuinedealZ has some for 3/8" lug rings--the same ones are available on Amazon; they're brass wing nuts, unknown bolt composition, unknown terminal composition with expoxy coating); that will help when the clamps fail before the cable does; I need to know the diameter of the terminal clamps (or the diameter of the battery posts) and the diameter of the bolts . The failed clamp is on the negative cable. If I'm ordering custom cables, I'm going to need to find out about whether or not those little ground wires are going to need to be spliced in with the rest of the cable on the negative one. It appears that positive cables have to have those ground cables; positive cables have two lugs on them; this mean I need two cables for the positive cable?

Anyone have a good reason not to go with heavy wall versus standard lugs?

A 3' 4AWG with heavy wall tinned copper 3/8" lugs with heat shrink would be $8.17 from GenuinedealZ; that's well within budget. I can re-use the automotive tubing from the old cables to keep it protected from friction wear. The positive cables are a different story, since the terminal and cable setup looks more complicated; I still don't understand what the requirements are supposed to be for the ground cables, where they're attached, guage, length, etc.
 
Just say no to lead.....

Lead free OEM style. Haven't had any lead terminals come on my cars since the 80's.

909065_primary.jpg


http://www.delcity.net/store/Lead-!-Free-OEM-Style-Battery-Terminals/p_596771
 
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