Ok, long story short,...2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with currently 94,981 miles, burnt 1 quart of Castrol EDGE 10w-30 over the last 1481 miles. Oil change performed at 93,500 miles with 6 quarts EDGE 10w-30 and FRAM Ultra PH8(over size filter). Previous oil change at 90,000 miles was exactly same oil and filter, and did not loose more than 2 or 3 Oz over 3,500 miles. Also, the accident...front end collision into a moving trucks step bar at approx 15mph, crushed Grill, condenser and radiator, though not bad, didnt get hood or quarter panels or even break electric fan. Driven less than 1000 ft maby 15 min after accident minus 1.5-2 gallons of coolant that had leaked out. Started briefly(not sure how long wasnt there hope not more than a minute) to get on tow truck, and then possibly again at body shop. Following home after picking up at body shop(1481 miles ago, end of November 1014), saw Blue in exhaust when taking off from stops....What to Do?
2003 Jeep 4.0 burning oil
- Thread starter 84zmyfavorite
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You can do whatever you want if you have the money. Cheapest option would be an oil additive or a switch to a high mileage oil. You could rebuild the engine and put it back in. 1 Qt. of oil for 1481 isn't bad. Since the collision and running the engine without coolant could have fried your rings and that isn't too good but I was really wondering about the engine bearings but who knows. If it sat at the body shop for a little while there could have been some oil in the engine and it was just burning off. I would wait and see if it stops after a few days. If it keeps on burning oil during take-off it might be time for an engine rebuild.
A compression test is in order. If the compression is not so good that could certainly be the reason for the oil burning. Does it give a puff of blue smoke at startup after sitting overnight? Thats valve stem seals.
There are some additives to the oil that may help with getting rid of the crud on the rings that may be causing them not to seal as well as they should. Auto-Rx is one additive, there are others, MMO would not be on that list.
Also remember even with good compression, the oil control ring may not be sealing properly causing oil burning.
There are some additives to the oil that may help with getting rid of the crud on the rings that may be causing them not to seal as well as they should. Auto-Rx is one additive, there are others, MMO would not be on that list.
Also remember even with good compression, the oil control ring may not be sealing properly causing oil burning.
Indeed. You need to find out why it's burning oil. My guess would be oil ingestion.
This does not sound like an oil or additive issue, but a mechanical one to me.
Good ol' Donald, managed to get a shot at MMO in there and we weren't even talking about it!
Good ol' Donald, managed to get a shot at MMO in there and we weren't even talking about it!
Keep it topped off above the minimum mark and enjoy the extra reason to buy more oil. Give Rotella T6 5w40 a try too.
+1 for Rotealla T6
Those 4.0's are known for liking 40 weights.
I'd stick with something synthetic (0 or 5w40) year round just cause you might see colder temps during the cooler months.
Those 4.0's are known for liking 40 weights.
I'd stick with something synthetic (0 or 5w40) year round just cause you might see colder temps during the cooler months.
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Good ol' Donald, managed to get a shot at MMO in there and we weren't even talking about it!
And he managed to give a plug for AutoRX at the same time! Some things never change. I'm sure another free case of AutoRX will arrive at his door step soon.
Good ol' Donald, managed to get a shot at MMO in there and we weren't even talking about it!
And he managed to give a plug for AutoRX at the same time! Some things never change. I'm sure another free case of AutoRX will arrive at his door step soon.
If it's running good, relax. Likely no engine damage suffered after the wreck. The Castrol full synthetic is probably reconditioning your valve seals, the smoke may stop. If it continues to use oil throughout the whole OCI, just keep it topped off and switch to a high mileage oil next change. People have had good results with Maxlife blend - red bottle.
It sounds like the oil burning started AFTER the wreck; so somehow the wreck did something mechanically to the engine. You say it was driven for 15 minutes after the wreck with a busted radiator? Did it overheat? Did an external oil cooler get broken and it was driven with no oil?
Thank You All. It was driven less than a 1000 ft(aprox 30 seconds) somewhere around ten to 15 minutes after the wreck happened(aprox time to get info from other drivers etc..) with at least 1.5 gallons of coolant missing, maby 2 gallons(block holds a gallon) from 3 gallon capacity cooling system.
Originally Posted By: 84zmyfavorite
Following home after picking up at body shop(1481 miles ago, end of November 1014), saw Blue in exhaust when taking off from stops....What to Do?
This is almost certainly valve stem seals. I have changed them on other engines and it was not very difficult. There is a discussion of doing them on the 4.0 here. I recommend using nylon rope in the cylinders.
Following home after picking up at body shop(1481 miles ago, end of November 1014), saw Blue in exhaust when taking off from stops....What to Do?
This is almost certainly valve stem seals. I have changed them on other engines and it was not very difficult. There is a discussion of doing them on the 4.0 here. I recommend using nylon rope in the cylinders.
Thanks, Ive worked on two Jeep 4.0 heads, no three(the 0331 off my 2000 XJ was Cracked, so junk) and all three had close to 50%(6)valve stem seals that had come loose from the cast iron and were just sliding up and down the valve stems. This isnt normal, is it? Is it just coincedence that it happened Right after the front end collision? I still want to do a AutoRx cleaning when the EDGE is close to 3000 miles old, then soak the cylinders with alternating WD40, SeaFoam, MMO, then a mild cleaning with 5 quarts Rotella 15w-40 and one quart MMO for 500 miles or so and see if oil burning is still there.
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Originally Posted By: 84zmyfavorite
I still want to do a AutoRx cleaning when the EDGE is close to 3000 miles old, then soak the cylinders with alternating WD40, SeaFoam, MMO, then a mild cleaning with 5 quarts Rotella 15w-40 and one quart MMO for 500 miles or so and see if oil burning is still there.
I'd bet money that after you put all of those additives in your engine, it will burn more oil than it does now.
I still want to do a AutoRx cleaning when the EDGE is close to 3000 miles old, then soak the cylinders with alternating WD40, SeaFoam, MMO, then a mild cleaning with 5 quarts Rotella 15w-40 and one quart MMO for 500 miles or so and see if oil burning is still there.
I'd bet money that after you put all of those additives in your engine, it will burn more oil than it does now.
I would do the compression test as well. If it started burning after the wreck that does not sound promising.
Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: 84zmyfavorite
I still want to do a AutoRx cleaning when the EDGE is close to 3000 miles old, then soak the cylinders with alternating WD40, SeaFoam, MMO, then a mild cleaning with 5 quarts Rotella 15w-40 and one quart MMO for 500 miles or so and see if oil burning is still there.
I'd bet money that after you put all of those additives in your engine, it will burn more oil than it does now.
I agree. A MMO soak doubled my oil consumption.
Originally Posted By: 84zmyfavorite
I still want to do a AutoRx cleaning when the EDGE is close to 3000 miles old, then soak the cylinders with alternating WD40, SeaFoam, MMO, then a mild cleaning with 5 quarts Rotella 15w-40 and one quart MMO for 500 miles or so and see if oil burning is still there.
I'd bet money that after you put all of those additives in your engine, it will burn more oil than it does now.
I agree. A MMO soak doubled my oil consumption.
This engine only has 95,000 miles on it. How could it burn more oil by doing a cylinder soak? Its not like its caked with deposits inside that are causing rings to stick. Something happened mechanicaly, like a oil ring sticking because a cylinder got a bit to hot, maby#1, being the closest to the H20 pump sucking the engine dry because coolant is pouring out the ruptured radiator. Im hoping to free-up that stuck ring, if possible by doing a cylinder soak. Ive done it before more than once, one memorable time to a 1988 Jeep 4.0 that had been left hood open, spark plugs out and then rained on. Pretty sure at least the front 5 cylinders, if not all 6 were seized. Starter couldnt turn over engine, but after a good long soaking of WD40(maby SuperTech Lubricant) MMO, maby a bit of carb/brake cleaner, She turned over, and with a few more soaks of MMO and carb/brake cleaner deushings, You would never know it happened, performance or oil control wise.
use 10w30 pennzoil high mileage it will work
Is it burning oil or leaking oil? Those motors are notorious for oil leaks pretty much everywhere.
There is the common rear main seal leaking a little bit, usually 2 to 3 oz in a 3000 mile OCI.
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