5w30 synthetic vs 10w30 synthetic 2000 GMC Savana?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 25, 2015
Messages
4
Location
Florida
I have a 2000 GMC Savana 2500 with 83,000 miles on it. I'm about to change the oil, I bought 6 quarts of full synthetic Castrol Edge with titanium in the brown bottles. I bought 10W-30. The owner's manual calls for 5W-30. This van is used for hauling dirt bikes usually two at a time. Those weight about 225lbs each. And I'm thinking of hauling 3 also. The van will be driven in Florida.

There are a few reasons why I chose 10w30:
-Florida heat, guy at the shop said 10w30 vs 5w30 doesn't matter in Florida
-Hauling stuff, dirt bikes. Don't know if that even matters.
-Is it true that today's 10w30 is like the 5w30 of 15-20 years ago?
-Will syn 10w30 be more shear stable than syn 5w30 enough to even care about?

I want this van to last as long as possible, forever if possible. Will the 5w30 extend engine life because of the better flow at lower (startup) temps? If that's the case, then why not use 0w30?

Also, do they recommend thicker oils for the same cars in Europe?

I am ready to take the 10w30 I bought back and exchange for 5w30 if that's the best thing to do.
 
The best thing to do is change ur oil and use the 10w30 since u already have it. Ur savanna can't tell the diff between 5 & 10w30.
 
Keep your 10/30.

-You should have a factory engine oil cooler. It will be fine.
-Slightly high loads on the engine, 10/30 might be better for it.
-Dunno. But the 10/30 isn't going to hurt anything.
-It's possible. Our Jeeps do better on 10/30 than 5/30.

No. You're never going to have a cold startup situation so cold that it will ever make a difference.
 
I don't think these vans were offered in Europe
48.gif


If the store is close, yeah you can go back and exchange it for 5w30, but it's not really necessary. Besides, Florida is warm enough where 5w vs 10w doesn't really matter.

0w30 can also be used too, no problem.
 
If you hasn't already bought the oil I'd recommend you get a 5w30 synthetic, however unless you want to return it what's done is done, the 10w30 is very similar to the 5w30 above freezing temperatures.

If you do live in freezing climates you'd want the better cold flow from the 5w30 and if it was really negative temperatures ie: - 20F or greater, the 0w30 would make it easier to start.

A modern 10w30 synthetic contains no viscosity index improvers and some 5w30 synthetics contain little or none. A 0w30 will contain viscosity index improvers but are shear stable enough that I wouldn't worry about it.


Basically your engine is designed for a range of viscosity and any of these 3 oils will do the trick.
 
Does not the owner's manual say that you can use 10w30 when 5w30 is not present? My 2003 Chevy Blazer says that. Although thats a 4.3 V6, which is just a 350 with 2 less cylinders.

-Florida heat, guy at the shop said 10w30 vs 5w30 doesn't matter in Florida
-basically yes
-Hauling stuff, dirt bikes. Don't know if that even matters.
-Not really
-Is it true that today's 10w30 is like the 5w30 of 15-20 years ago?
-all motor oils got better. 10W30 oil still need to meet the 10 weight at 0 degrees C like 5w30 has to meet 5 weight at 0 degrees C.
-Will syn 10w30 be more shear stable than syn 5w30 enough to even care about?
-I always heard that. But Synthetics oils are pretty shear stable.
 
I've bought the oil, but haven't opened the bottles yet. I literally live within walking distance of the shop and can exchange the 10w30 for 5w30 within 5 minutes.

So my ultimate question is will any of the oils provide distinct advantages over the other that makes it worth getting? And will the 5w30 (or 0w30) help the engine last longer because of better flow at startup?

If the 10w30 "doesn't hurt anything" does that mean the 5w30 is still a better choice? Even at 75F-95F for a startup temp, wouldn't the 5w30 still provide less engine wear than 10w30?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: rovertnamrod
Even at 75F-95F for a startup temp, wouldn't the 5w30 still provide less engine wear than 10w30?


Nope. The 10W30 will be perfect.
 
It's possible that even in the lab the difference between a 5w-30 and a 10w-30 would be very little and probable mean nothing in the real world. Use what you have and buy the cheapest if there's a price difference.
 
Run the 10w30. In Florida it's not going to be an issue at all. Im in San Diego and with the warm climate I run 10w30 year round. My old push rod engine loves the stuff. It ticks with 5w30.
 
I think the most important question is, What will be the coldest temperature the sump will be started at? You mention Florida, will you be in Florida for the entire OCI? If you're never going to go below freezing, the 10w30 is fine.
 
Run the 10w30, neither you nor your ride will be able to tell the difference, especially in Florida.
 
Alright first I just want to say thanks to everyone for their prompt help. I was surprised to have so many responses so quickly, awesome forum.

I guess I'm going to put 10w30 synthetic in my van then. I was originally going to take the 10w30 back and exchange for 5w30. It would be no trouble at all and the cost is the same for either one. But I'll go with what you guys on here are saying.

Just to ask, is the 10w30 the best possible option? Or would the 5w30 be the best possible option? That's what I was looking for, just the best possible option.
 
They told me that I should use 5w-30 in my Chevy 2.2 ecotec because of something in the design and even 10-30 wouldn't work right, maybe it was the VVT?

You have a v-8, doesn't seem applicable. Besides, using full synthetic should be really good. There is some speculation that 10-30 oil might be better than 5-30 because of less spread between the two numbers.

Realistically it probably doesn't matter. Even straight 30 would probably work ok.
 
Oh and I also keep hearing that 10w30 oil is outdated, obsolete, or pointless. Especially in synthetic form. Heard that synthetic 10w30 is redundant.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top