0W20 vs 0W30 UOAs in the same engine?

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mrdctaylor

mrdctaylor

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Hey guys,

I just bought a 2012 Toyota Highlander with the 3.5L and 26K miles. It is the first vehicle I've owned that specs 0W20 and 10K mile intervals. I've got a couple of freebies coming from the dealership and they use 0W20. However, I'm wondering about what to use down the road.

To that end, I'm curious if anyone out there has tested both a 0W20 and 0W30 in the same engine. If it is a Toyota engine, so much the better. I just want to use what is best, regardless of MPG/CAFE regulations, etc. I'm not sure I necessarily believe that is why 20 weight oils are spec'd, but it is always talked about...so it definitely puts doubt in one's mind as to whether or not 20 weights are truly the best for engine life.

So...2012 Toyota 3.5L: 0W20 or 0W30?

Thanks in advance!
 
Originally Posted By: mrdctaylor
Hey guys,

I just bought a 2012 Toyota Highlander with the 3.5L and 26K miles. It is the first vehicle I've owned that specs 0W20 and 10K mile intervals. I've got a couple of freebies coming from the dealership and they use 0W20. However, I'm wondering about what to use down the road.

To that end, I'm curious if anyone out there has tested both a 0W20 and 0W30 in the same engine. If it is a Toyota engine, so much the better. I just want to use what is best, regardless of MPG/CAFE regulations, etc. I'm not sure I necessarily believe that is why 20 weight oils are spec'd, but it is always talked about...so it definitely puts doubt in one's mind as to whether or not 20 weights are truly the best for engine life.

So...2012 Toyota 3.5L: 0W20 or 0W30?

Thanks in advance!



Let me end your doubts on 20 weight oils.
I have been using 20 weight oils since 2001. Honda Civic, 227k flawless engine miles.
CR-V, 215k and counting flawless engine miles.
Pilot, 68k and counting flawless engine miles. And this one gets 0w20. On a V6! OH NO!!!!
 
Yeah I run 20wt in my truck. It's got 315000km on it and doesn't burn a drop. Ben using 20 off and on for about 150000km. No difference in the two with my vehicle. my versa specs 30wt so that's what it gets.
 
Unless someone is running a Toyota 3.5 V6 any claims made about being "flawless" is absolutely meaningless.
Being the best oil for any given engine depends on many things, if the engine is an older design originally designed for xw30 oil and just back spec'd its probably not.

IMO the best thing to do would be to run 3 OCI with each with no additives and do an UOA on the third change of each.
You need to get some miles on each one to make the UOA anywhere near useful, a one time UOA before switching is going to be inaccurate.

In Germany 0w30 or 5w30 is spec for this engine. Chances are this may be the optimal oil for this engine as no CAFE shenanigans are involved. Do your own testing.
 
Don't need a 0w unless its a better performer at higher temps.


EcoNergy MOtul 5w30 ACEA A1B1 ILSAC GF? is a super thin 30 if you want something special to try.
 
ARCOgraphite, What is the cost of the EcoNergy Motul 5w-30?

I would likely try the Mobil 1 0W-30 at Wally World for $26 a 5 quart jug normally, i believe.

Let me know so i can learn about the EcoNergy,

thanks
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Trav
Your right he is in Tx. He needs a 0w like a hole in the head. No benefit at all to it in that climate.


That may be true...but it shouldn't hurt anything. And I've heard that sometimes the 0W oils are formulated a little better. I guess my main question is whether a 20 weight is truly the best oil for this engine or is a 30 weight (since it is apparently spec'd for 30 in other countries)? The bottom line is that it may not really matter much, but this *IS* BITOG after all. :)

I'm hoping that someone on here has run both a 20 and 30 weight in their 3.5L Toyota and can comment.
 
Originally Posted By: mrdctaylor
Cool. So how long do you run your oil?


10k on the CR-V (and ran that in the Civic as well). Usually PP 5w20 but they both had/have run M1 5w20 and 0w20 as well. The CR-V isn't doing the mileage it once did so now it will probably be 7-8k in a year and then change it. I was doing 10k in 2.5 months a couple years ago....

The Pilot goes by the MM to 10% and is mostly a short tripper so it's only hitting 5k usually before I change it out. Probably overkill but at $27 for a 5-quart jug of M1 0w20 I don't care.
 
I use M1 0-20 in my Fords(have for several years now) because it protects my engines very well in all temps. Some members here prefer 0-20 to heavier grades and put several hundred Ks on with no problems.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Your right he is in Tx. He needs a 0w like a hole in the head. No benefit at all to it in that climate.


It's not a question of "needs" but a question of preferred. There is no down side to 0 wt oils, only upside benefits.IMMHO.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1

There is no down side to 0 wt oils, only upside benefits.IMMHO.


On paper I would agree, but in practice it varies. 0W rating is a spec and can be achieved in many ways by using good quality base stocks (your M1 choice) or by using Group III with heavy doses of PPD and VIIs. Groups III oils that meet 0W fresh oil spec, may have a hard time retaining the cold flow pumpability specs while in use, unless they also meet one of manufacturer's specific specs that have the used oil pimpability performance already specified (not all manufacturers have such a spec).

That is the reason why not all 0WXX oils also meet the extended drain interval requirements. Simply put, you cannot make general statements that there are no downsides to 0WXX oils. It's simply not true.
 
I have a 2010 camry 2.5l. I used a 0w30 and had higher oil consumption. No change in noticeable fuel economy. I've had 3 UOA done with smsoil 0w20 with the last being 11,800 miles on oil and very low wear metals. Use a 0w20 with confidence. No need to use any 30wt unless the car starts using or leaking oil.
 
Mobil 1 0w30 shears down to a 20 grade quickly...Why not just use a proper 20 grade like Mobil 1 0w20 Extended Performance?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: tig1

There is no down side to 0 wt oils, only upside benefits.IMMHO.


On paper I would agree, but in practice it varies. 0W rating is a spec and can be achieved in many ways by using good quality base stocks (your M1 choice) or by using Group III with heavy doses of PPD and VIIs. Groups III oils that meet 0W fresh oil spec, may have a hard time retaining the cold flow pumpability specs while in use, unless they also meet one of manufacturer's specific specs that have the used oil pimpability performance already specified (not all manufacturers have such a spec).

That is the reason why not all 0WXX oils also meet the extended drain interval requirements. Simply put, you cannot make general statements that there are no downsides to 0WXX oils. It's simply not true.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: tig1

There is no down side to 0 wt oils, only upside benefits.IMMHO.


On paper I would agree, but in practice it varies. 0W rating is a spec and can be achieved in many ways by using good quality base stocks (your M1 choice) or by using Group III with heavy doses of PPD and VIIs. Groups III oils that meet 0W fresh oil spec, may have a hard time retaining the cold flow pumpability specs while in use, unless they also meet one of manufacturer's specific specs that have the used oil pimpability performance already specified (not all manufacturers have such a spec).

That is the reason why not all 0WXX oils also meet the extended drain interval requirements. Simply put, you cannot make general statements that there are no downsides to 0WXX oils. It's simply not true.


Who said anything about extended OCI? What 0 wt oils are you refering to?
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
It's not a question of "needs" but a question of preferred. There is no down side to 0 wt oils, only upside benefits.IMMHO.


You keep saying that but never back it up.

0W will likely be a thinner basestock, with a lot more VII than a 5W or 10W...that's a downside, instantly and automatically.

e.g a 5W30 is likely to have 30% greater basestock viscosity, and less than half the VII of a 0W30...less polymers to shear, and when they do, more robust basestocks to back it...(0W20 will have slightly higher basestock viscosity and much less VII than the 30 also)

OP, I'd be inclined to 5W30 (or 5W20 synth) if you want more protection...If you want to stay with 0W, and you are using an ILSAC oil rather than one of the European style A3/B4, stay with say Mobil 0W20 rather than one of the Unicorn "Japanese" brews.
 
I have used 0w20 and 0w30 in a Toyota 2.4 4cyl and prefer 0w20 for sure, I can coast forever, save gas sounds no different really.
Love the 0w20 for the 2.4. I will be going back to only 0w20 next OCI. I bought a bunch of 5w20 5 quart containers as they were cheap, I notice the 0w20 is much better.
I didnt do any uoa.
 
UOA does not measure exactly engine wear. The amount of data to compare two oils significantly is extreme and can't be done at this level.
 
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