Adding Universal Coolant, concerns?

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My 97 Jeep GC Laredo has a consistent leak in/near the coolant overflow reservoir.
No idea what coolant is in there. Is universal coolant safe to put in?
Any concerns w/ uni coolant?

Do I have to dilute, or can universal be poured in straight out of the bottle?


Normally, I stop into a Valvoline Rapid Oil Change and just ask for a coolant top off. But it would be easier to just do it myself.

Thanks.
 
I would assume it had G-05 in there at one point. Now who knows? So either keep using universal or get the leak fixed and flush the old stuff out and fill with G-05.
 
This will be fine just read the label to see if it's full strength or 50/50
Why not just fix the leak it cant be too hard
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
A 97 would have originally had conventional green.I'd stick to that myself


^ This is correct. My wife and I have owned several late 90s and early 00s Jeeps, all used the green.
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: Chris142
A 97 would have originally had conventional green.I'd stick to that myself


^ This is correct. My wife and I have owned several late 90s and early 00s Jeeps, all used the green.


OK, but if you flush the old stuff out, G-05 would then be a good choice. I have used it with no issues where old green had been used from the factory.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
A 97 would have originally had conventional green.I'd stick to that myself


Totally agreed. "Universal" (not really correct for anything) is the last thing you want. If its already a mixed-up soup in there, then flush and re-fill either with conventional or G-05. G-05 has silicates like the old conventional IAT green and is one of the most universal coolants out there (even though it is NEVER advertised as such).
 
Im not sure when chrysler went to the HOAT (Pinkish orange) coolant, but from what I have read it doesn't mix well with others. Im not sure about these "universal coolants" either. When in doubt, flush it out and add the factory spec.
 
My '98 XJ has (& has had the green), if the Valvoline Rapid Oil Change use MaxLife AF (as does the Valvoline Instant Oil Changes here) it does fine with G-05/Mopar/Premium Gold. Old low silicate green is cheaper, though!
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: Chris142
A 97 would have originally had conventional green.I'd stick to that myself


^ This is correct. My wife and I have owned several late 90s and early 00s Jeeps, all used the green.


+1 If it is leaking some I would try some of the disc style bars leaks. Crush a couple real fine and top with old green. Valvoline still makes a green antifreeze under Zerex. You can grab that from Napa or the Valvoline quickie place should have it for top offs. It is probably a worn gasket but if the leaking continues or gets worse I would have a pressure test and see where the leaking is coming from.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I agree that fixing the leak and flushing the coolant is best. But I can't afford to take it in (am putting on new cat and muffler), and I'd rather not troubleshoot it myself in the cold. I figure I'll keep topping it off until it warms up a bit.

How would I test for the leak?

Edit: Whoops, forgot to ask - if universal coolants come in full strength or 50/50, does it matter if the radiator has full strength, and top off w/ a 50/50 or vice versa?

Usually when the defrost is on I can either smell exhaust or a sweet smell, which I figure is coolant.
Thanks.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bgallagher

+1 If it is leaking some I would try some of the disc style bars leaks. Crush a couple real fine and top with old green. Valvoline still makes a green antifreeze under Zerex. You can grab that from Napa or the Valvoline quickie place should have it for top offs. It is probably a worn gasket but if the leaking continues or gets worse I would have a pressure test and see where the leaking is coming from.



Thanks, gallagher. What is "disc style bars leaks?"
 
Originally Posted By: Blazered
You can try some of the commercially available stop leaks (contain crushed walnut shells - the little pieces expand and stop minor leaks without plugging up the radiator).

Chart for coolant (you use the old "green" stuff) here:

http://www.wmautomotive.com/blog/?m=201208


I believe Walmart has them but you can order the AC-Delco coolant stop leaks (same product.)

http://barsleaks.com/product/radiator-stop-leak-tablets/

This is what I am referring to.

if you wanted to test it you can rent a pressure tester from Autozone. It attaches to you radiator and pressurizes to what your cap does. From there you can check for external leaks. That is if it is external..
 
The cooling system can sink your boat in minutes. I'd always use exactly the correct coolant no matter the cost or the problem finding it. I'd accept no substitutes and no one's well meaning advice.
 
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Im not sure when chrysler went to the HOAT (Pinkish orange) coolant, but from what I have read it doesn't mix well with others. Im not sure about these "universal coolants" either. When in doubt, flush it out and add the factory spec.


HOAT (G-05) Mopar coolant mixes pretty well with other chemistry coolants- its the reddish coolant that is chemically identical to Motorcraft Gold and Xerex G-05, even though they aren't dyed red. Certainly no issues if you flush first, as I and others have done on our very old engines. Its the new purple Mopar OAT that doesn't always play nice if contaminated with other chemistry coolants.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Im not sure when chrysler went to the HOAT (Pinkish orange) coolant, but from what I have read it doesn't mix well with others. Im not sure about these "universal coolants" either. When in doubt, flush it out and add the factory spec.


HOAT (G-05) Mopar coolant mixes pretty well with other chemistry coolants- its the reddish coolant that is chemically identical to Motorcraft Gold and Xerex G-05, even though they aren't dyed red. Certainly no issues if you flush first, as I and others have done on our very old engines. Its the new purple Mopar OAT that doesn't always play nice if contaminated with other chemistry coolants.




If I would have known that about a year ago I could have used Xerex and not had to pay almost $30/gallon!
 
Originally Posted By: niero
Thanks for the replies.

I agree that fixing the leak and flushing the coolant is best. But I can't afford to take it in (am putting on new cat and muffler), and I'd rather not troubleshoot it myself in the cold. I figure I'll keep topping it off until it warms up a bit.

How would I test for the leak?

Edit: Whoops, forgot to ask - if universal coolants come in full strength or 50/50, does it matter if the radiator has full strength, and top off w/ a 50/50 or vice versa?

Usually when the defrost is on I can either smell exhaust or a sweet smell, which I figure is coolant.
Thanks.


In MN hopefully you have a better than 50/50 mix; so if you top off with the pre mixed stuff, keep in mind that you'll be diluting it some.
 
Chrysler switched from the traditional ethylene glycol to G-05 in 2003. G-05 is pretty good stuff and hard to go wrong with it, even in older vehicles that previously called for the green stuff. I would use it or Peak Global over the green stuff after a good flush and enjoy the longer service intervals that both G-05 and Peak Global offer.

http://www.peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-coolants/automotive/global-lifetime-full-strength/

This is the only universal coolant I'd personally use. Non 2EH formula and phosphate/silicate free. A true "universal" coolant.
 
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