2010 Vibe, Lots of Warning Lights

[Rhymingmechanic]

2010 Pontiac Vibe 1.8 base, auto trans.

My wife noticed several lights on her dash today: "VSC Off" is flashing, and the ABS, Traction Control, and Brake lights are on steadily. The brakes work as usual, but there's no anti-lock.

Online searching brings up a lot of hits about bad rear wheel sensors and corroded connectors. The sensors are integral to the hubs and apparently expensive to replace, and I can't shadetree them right now.

Here's what I've done:

1) Checked codes with Torque. None are stored, but I don't think Torque reads ABS codes.

2) Checked for leaking brake lines and damaged ABS wires and connectors. OK as far as I could tell outside at night in the cold. The master cylinder is full and the pedal feels normal.

3) Disconnected the battery. Lights came back on when I restarted.


I'm going to clean the rear connectors this week when I can, depending on work and weather. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

[friendly_jacek]

get the $30 techstream cable.

 

[michaelluscher]

Could try Car Gauge Pro in the play store

Try it as a GM, try it as a Toyota, see what works.

 

[Recalculating]

TPMS lights on too?

 

[The Critic]

Need to get the ABS codes first.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Originally Posted By: Recalculating
TPMS lights on too?

No, just brakes and stability/traction control. I didn't think to check it as a Matrix. I'll also check Car Gauge Pro.

Can the readers at Autozone or Advance handle ABS codes, or do I need to take it to a shop?

Thanks for the ideas so far.

 

[HTSS_TR]

I had similar problem with my 2000 E430 some years ago, the fix was replacing the brake light switch under the brake pedal at a cost of $12-13 for the switch and 5-10 minutes. Your brake light switch may be near the brake pedal or nearby.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

OK, I had the codes read at Advance, and here's what came up:

C1403 RR wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction

C1407 RR wheel speed sensor circuit open or shorted

C1422 Master cylinder pressure sensor zero point high malfunction

I forgot to ask the Advance guy to clear them, so I'm going to see if they'll do that today.

The code definitions are from an online Chilton reference. A lot of the diagnostic procedures require a big-boy scan tool and circuit testing, which are beyond my equipment, experience, and schedule right now.

The wheel cylinder codes point to a bad sensor or connector.

The C1422 diagnostic starts with checking the brake light switch and ends with replacing the whole ABS unit--there doesn't seem to be an option to replace just the electronics. (If I'm reading the warranty right, the ABS control module might be covered for 8 years/80,000 miles under the emissions warranty.)


The brake lights work. The next step requires a scan tool to read the switch signal, and then there's a procedure for checking clearance at the switch. I can check the clearance, but that's about it.

So, what insights or suggestions does anybody have about this combination of codes?

 

[Trav]

Start by replacing the RR speed sensor, It is connected to the anti skid control circuit that will cause the C1422 also.
With no real scanner its probably the cheapest and easiest route.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Thanks, Trav. It looks like I'm in for a lot of money no matter what, since the sensors aren't sold separately. I'll have to replace the whole hub.

 

[Trav]

Oh that's nice. That has to be a $200 hub for this car if its a brand name.
Check the cable and connector first make sure it didn't get strained with ice but i think if you check the pins on the sensor with a VOM it will read zero Ohms.

 

[Warstud]

Before replacing...try cleanning it off...first.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

$250 for an SKF hub, and about $300 for AC Delco.

I'm going to unplug the connector and clean it when weather allows. I tried last night but couldn't get it off, and I didn't want to break it working with cold hands.

Trav, you're saying that zero Ohms means the sensor is bad, right?

 

[Trav]

Yes, most of the time when they fail its an open circuit indicated by a zero reading.
It could read very high also but that would be less common.
The usual range depending on type and vehicle is between 400 and 1400 Ohms, anything above or bellow is suspect, zero is positively bad.

A scope is the best thing for diagnosing these things but bad VOM reading can give you a pretty good idea if it a absolute fail. In my experience 99% of the time its a failed sensor (in your case is in the the hub).

The SKF is a good hub, i wouldn't pay $50 more for the Delco.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Thank you for the details. I'll test it when I can without having to get under the car in snow or freezing rain.