Custom Mix of Redline 5W-20 and 10W race

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Radiation_Joe
Originally Posted By: CT8
What is the mix supposed to do over a regular off the shelf Redline oil?


In this case, I'm trying to get the viscosity down a little. The 5W-20 street oil Vis @ 40°C cSt is 53. The mix theoretically brings this value down into the mid 40s.

I've run the exact same RL blend in the past when the HTHSV of their 5W-20 was a whopping 3.3cP. The mix had an operational viscosity based on oil pressure not much lighter than a 5W-30 like M1.
The current RL 5W-20 is lighter with a 3.0cP HTHSV which really is that of a light 30 grade so this mix is going to give you an operational viscosity of a heavy 5W-20, perhaps something a bit heavier than Amsoil 5W-20.

RL and particularly their race oils have a low pressure-viscosity coefficient, meaning their KV spec's are lower than what you'd expect compared to most other oils. So dispite it's low 5.8cSt KV spec' it's HTHSV is that of a typical 0W/5W-20 grade but with a very low VI.
By comparison TGMO 0W-20 would be considerably lighter on start-up than even running RL 10W straight.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
RL and particularly their race oils have a low pressure-viscosity coefficient


What's the "pressure-viscosity" coefficient ?

And where in the engine is it important ?

 

[virginoil]

Another BITOGoer pretending to know better than the oil blender/manufacturer.

At $28 AUD per quart in OZ would you mess around like this ?

 

[Radiation_Joe]

Ah,
Another turd in the punch bowl.

 

[Malo83]

And who's drinking the Kool Aid

 

[Radiation_Joe]

Touche!

 

[Radiation_Joe]

Getting close to performing the UOA on this blend. I'm at 7500 miles and think I'll change it out at 9000.
I was worried initially about oil consumption with such a low viscosity, but the dipstick (nice to have one of those after the BMWs) shows I haven't used more than an ounce or two.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: Radiation_Joe
Getting close to performing the UOA on this blend. I'm at 7500 miles and think I'll change it out at 9000.
I was worried initially about oil consumption with such a low viscosity, but the dipstick (nice to have one of those after the BMWs) shows I haven't used more than an ounce or two.


Most of Red Line's products (despite the HATE for them on this site) have a fairly low volatility rate, and shear very little in use.

 

[OVERKILL]

I don't think anybody hates Redline on here? The typical whipping boy is Royal Purple

LOL!

 

[fredfactory]

If anybody knows of any advantage in running Redline, please provide some facts. A POE oil is "cool", yet what UOAs or anything can say we need to run it?

 

[fredfactory]

Originally Posted By: mongo161
I'm currently into 3K of running a blend of 4 quarts of GC 0w-30 and 2 quarts of RedLine racing 5wt, (0w20), with a Fram Ultra oversized filter. .....


You're blending a PAO oil with a POE oil? Are the additive packages chemically compatible? I like your guts though.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: fredfactory
If anybody knows of any advantage in running Redline, please provide some facts. A POE oil is "cool", yet what UOAs or anything can say we need to run it?


The primary advantage to Redline is that they use the minimum (and in some cases none) amount of VII's, so the lubricants are very shear stable. However, an apparent artifact of this process is that for a given grade, many of their oils are on the heavy side.

Their 5w-30, for example has no VII's in it. So if you were looking specifically for a shear stable 5w-30, it doesn't get much better than that.

 

[fredfactory]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
The primary advantage to Redline is that they use the minimum (and in some cases none) amount of VII's, so the lubricants are very shear stable. However, an apparent artifact of this process is that for a given grade, many of their oils are on the heavy side.

Their 5w-30, for example has no VII's in it. So if you were looking specifically for a shear stable 5w-30, it doesn't get much better than that.


We can just dump in VII's half way thru an oil change interval to replace the broken molecules, if we could get the stuff. Oil makers should market something like, for example, "Mobil1 Additive Booster concentrate" (no base oil) for adding in half-way. That way you know its compatible, would come in small 3 oz bottles. More VII for non-Redline oil. Or, we could just pay $1,000 per quart for Redline.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
The primary advantage to Redline is that they use the minimum (and in some cases none) amount of VII's, so the lubricants are very shear stable. However, an apparent artifact of this process is that for a given grade, many of their oils are on the heavy side.

There, that's an advantage. If one were doing a lot of track days on a daily driver, Red Line would probably be a good choice. That's not to say that other products couldn't do it, but Red Line would jump to mind immediately. Finding it in Canada is a little more difficult these days, though.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: fredfactory
We can just dump in VII's half way thru an oil change interval to replace the broken molecules, if we could get the stuff. Oil makers should market something like, for example, "Mobil1 Additive Booster concentrate" (no base oil) for adding in half-way. That way you know its compatible, would come in small 3 oz bottles. More VII for non-Redline oil. Or, we could just pay $1,000 per quart for Redline.


Unless you are totally razzing with the above post, I will let you know that I was LAMBASTED on here for even suggesting the same thing, only substituting a TBN booster type additive instead of a VI booster.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: fredfactory
Originally Posted By: mongo161
I'm currently into 3K of running a blend of 4 quarts of GC 0w-30 and 2 quarts of RedLine racing 5wt, (0w20), with a Fram Ultra oversized filter. .....


You're blending a PAO oil with a POE oil? Are the additive packages chemically compatible? I like your guts though.
Why wouldn't they? additives are additives. There are only a handful of companies that formulate the additive packages. Although I don't see what there is to gain yet oils are formulated to be compatible.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: fredfactory
We can just dump in VII's half way thru an oil change interval to replace the broken molecules, if we could get the stuff. Oil makers should market something like, for example, "Mobil1 Additive Booster concentrate" (no base oil) for adding in half-way. That way you know its compatible, would come in small 3 oz bottles. More VII for non-Redline oil. Or, we could just pay $1,000 per quart for Redline.


Unless you are totally razzing with the above post, I will let you know that I was LAMBASTED on here for even suggesting the same thing, only substituting a TBN booster type additive instead of a VI booster.

Liqui-moly motor oil saver is exactly that. A tbn booster.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: fredfactory
We can just dump in VII's half way thru an oil change interval to replace the broken molecules, if we could get the stuff. Oil makers should market something like, for example, "Mobil1 Additive Booster concentrate" (no base oil) for adding in half-way. That way you know its compatible, would come in small 3 oz bottles. More VII for non-Redline oil. Or, we could just pay $1,000 per quart for Redline.


Unless you are totally razzing with the above post, I will let you know that I was LAMBASTED on here for even suggesting the same thing, only substituting a TBN booster type additive instead of a VI booster.

Liqui-moly motor oil saver is exactly that. A tbn booster.


I knew it was to a point, but isn't it's MAIN purpose as a leak stopping seal sweller??

 

[mongo161]

Well, I ran the blend of GC/RL racing all through the winter.....frigid temps and two long trips to Florida in the winter. The blended mix ran really well and there was no more make-up oil needed since the 3/4 of a quart at the beginning of the run.

I was very pleased with the smoothness of the blend and the oil came out quite clean when changed after 8k of hard winter starts, short trips, traffic jams and high-speed highway driving. PAO/POE blends do work.




Originally Posted By: mongo161
I'm currently into 3K of running a blend of 4 quarts of GC 0w-30 and 2 quarts of RedLine racing 5wt, (0w20), with a Fram Ultra oversized filter.

My vehicle is a V-6, 1997 Toyota 4runner SR5, 4wd with 280K on the odometer.

I had to keep an eye on the oil level since the "RedLine" seemed to flash off faster than expected since it is a racing oil. I have added about 3/4 of 1 quart of GC 0w30 as make up oil. My driving has been a mix of 80/20 Highway/city. I really like this blend for my winter runs since the engine starts/turns over immediately with no engine chatter.