Purple Ice

[DoubleWasp]

1. If your engine runs at the thermostat's rated temp, this will not help you.

2. If your engine overheats, fix the problem. The exception here, is if you have a vehicle (vintage etc.) where it had overheating problems from the factory, and changing or modifying components is not reasonable. Here, this product (if it works) will help.

3. If your fans come on well, well after the thermostat's rated temp (I'm looking at you, GM), reprogram your fans to come on sooner.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
180F thermosat and 210F radfan gives plenty of room for improvements in several of my vehicles. Fan cycles less often. Less power loss(cheap me vs aggressive knock sensor and low octane fuel) and can definitely feel timing pulled as outdoor temps increase(summertime traffic...). Less of an issue with additive. Also, notice better heat from the heater during winter chill... btu's baby!

Its more about BTUs then perfectly measurable temp changes. I'd guess that localized hot spots less of an issue and average internal coolant temps more consistent.

I am a NoRosion and Koolit user now. No negatives with RP or RL when I used them. http://lubegard.com/pdfs/KOOLIT_comparison_sheet.pdf
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.
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If some haven't used or tested it, maybe some shouldn't comment on it.

JK, enjoy the PurpleIce.


Re the comparison, they state that it's temperature reduction in the lab...what is the temperature reduction that they are measuring ?

Can't be coolant temperature, as that would indicate LESS heat transfer...so what exactly IS running cooler ?

In the lab test...whatever it is.

Yes I've used water wetter, so I can comment.

In a thermostatically controlled engine environment, the claims make bunk sense.

 

[kschachn]

I'm trying to figure out some of that myself. Radiators are heat transfer devices, not strictly temperature reduction devices, and the engine is presumably generating the same amount of heat, and the radiator is rejecting the same amount of heat into the environment so... I guess I'm struggling with how the radiator fans could run less due to the additive. Something isn't making sense.

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Re the comparison, they state that it's temperature reduction in the lab...what is the temperature reduction that they are measuring ?

Can't be coolant temperature, as that would indicate LESS heat transfer...so what exactly IS running cooler ?

In the lab test...whatever it is.

Yes I've used water wetter, so I can comment.

In a thermostatically controlled engine environment, the claims make bunk sense.

 

[kschachn]

...

Never mind, it isn't worth the effort.

 

[jk_636]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
1. If your engine runs at the thermostat's rated temp, this will not help you.

2. If your engine overheats, fix the problem. The exception here, is if you have a vehicle (vintage etc.) where it had overheating problems from the factory, and changing or modifying components is not reasonable. Here, this product (if it works) will help.

3. If your fans come on well, well after the thermostat's rated temp (I'm looking at you, GM), reprogram your fans to come on sooner.


1: my temperature gauge would beg to differ
2: it doesn't overheat, has immaculate maintenance and there is nothing to fix. Just things to make more efficient.
3: my fans function just fine.

Overheating is the fastest way to kill these magnum engines. This is just a supplement to keep the engine cooler. Nothing else to understand.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
...

Never mind, it isn't worth the effort.


Which bit ?
The bit where if the coolant is cooler, the radiator is moving LESS energy into the atmosphere rather than more ?
The bit where given that the coolant is cooler, the heater CAN'T be pumping more BTUs ?
The bit where the thermostat (the control element if you will) decides what the coolant temperature is ?

Or something else ?

 

[DoubleWasp]

Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
1. If your engine runs at the thermostat's rated temp, this will not help you.

2. If your engine overheats, fix the problem. The exception here, is if you have a vehicle (vintage etc.) where it had overheating problems from the factory, and changing or modifying components is not reasonable. Here, this product (if it works) will help.

3. If your fans come on well, well after the thermostat's rated temp (I'm looking at you, GM), reprogram your fans to come on sooner.


1: my temperature gauge would beg to differ
2: it doesn't overheat, has immaculate maintenance and there is nothing to fix. Just things to make more efficient.
3: my fans function just fine.

Overheating is the fastest way to kill these magnum engines. This is just a supplement to keep the engine cooler. Nothing else to understand.


I have had plenty of Magnum engines myself. I understand that even when new, extreme heat could get the better of them. I remember during the car magazine's off road shootouts in the desert, magnum engined trucks of any cylinder count fell prey to overheating. This is what lead to the Grand Cherokee with Magnum engines getting the hydraulic cooling fan.

But for overheat protection, I think a better radiator would do more for you.

 

[SteveSRT8]

As far as heat goes, controlled heat actually makes engines last longer.

Ford published data in the 60's about cylinder wall wear and temperature. Wear went down as coolant temp went UP. So running too cool is a real issue.

That said, there are always isolated instances where additives are appropriate. It is also typical to see a bit of exaggeration or hyperbole related to over enthusiastic acceptance of claims...

 

[kschachn]

Yeah

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: kschachn
...

Never mind, it isn't worth the effort.

Which bit ?
The bit where if the coolant is cooler, the radiator is moving LESS energy into the atmosphere rather than more ?
The bit where given that the coolant is cooler, the heater CAN'T be pumping more BTUs ?
The bit where the thermostat (the control element if you will) decides what the coolant temperature is ?

Or something else ?

 

[Clevy]

I've tried the purple ice stuff in my charger. It had the EVIC system so digital readout a of water temp,oil temps and pretty much everything.
I saw no changes whatsoever. So I never used it again.
I'm not saying the stuff doesn't fix a problem however I didn't have any problems nor do I now,just that I didn't see any changes.
The stuff is supposed to wirk with straight water. Maybe it does.

 

[dlundblad]

OP, simply put.. If you want a cooler engine, replace the t stat with one that runs a tad cooler. Like try a 180 vs. a 195. This would achieve the same results as the Purple Ice. Try that once you have the nicer gauge or try a better mechanical fan.

I have a friend who religiously changes out his winter one for the summer one and vice versa. Granted this is Indiana so we really dont have the extreme hot weather, but it seems to be working well for him.

Engines are designed to reach their max temperature regardless of the outside temp so this is why i'd be hesitant. Plus I am not sure when sludge starts forming because the engine was too cold.

 

[kschachn]

That makes no sense to me. Why is it beneficial that the engine run at a lower temperature in summer? I mean, the thermostat holds it to the set temperature summer or winter, unless it is so freeking hot that the radiator can't reject enough heat and it overheats. But in that case the (overheated) operating temperature is the same no matter which thermostat is installed, it will overheat the same with either thermostat.

I guess my real question is why is it "good" that his engine operate at 195 degrees in the winter, but at 180 degrees in the summer?

There seems to be a general confusion as to what the thermostat does.

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I have a friend who religiously changes out his winter one for the summer one and vice versa. Granted this is Indiana so we really dont have the extreme hot weather, but it seems to be working well for him.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
That makes no sense to me. Why is it beneficial that the engine run at a lower temperature in summer? I mean, the thermostat holds it to the set temperature summer or winter, unless it is so freeking hot that the radiator can't reject enough heat and it overheats. But in that case the (overheated) operating temperature is the same no matter which thermostat is installed, it will overheat the same with either thermostat.

I guess my real question is why is it "good" that his engine operate at 195 degrees in the winter, but at 180 degrees in the summer?

There seems to be a general confusion as to what the thermostat does.

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I have a friend who religiously changes out his winter one for the summer one and vice versa. Granted this is Indiana so we really dont have the extreme hot weather, but it seems to be working well for him.


Did you read the last portion of my post that you edited out of the quote?

 

[jk_636]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
1. If your engine runs at the thermostat's rated temp, this will not help you.

2. If your engine overheats, fix the problem. The exception here, is if you have a vehicle (vintage etc.) where it had overheating problems from the factory, and changing or modifying components is not reasonable. Here, this product (if it works) will help.

3. If your fans come on well, well after the thermostat's rated temp (I'm looking at you, GM), reprogram your fans to come on sooner.


1: my temperature gauge would beg to differ
2: it doesn't overheat, has immaculate maintenance and there is nothing to fix. Just things to make more efficient.
3: my fans function just fine.

Overheating is the fastest way to kill these magnum engines. This is just a supplement to keep the engine cooler. Nothing else to understand.


I have had plenty of Magnum engines myself. I understand that even when new, extreme heat could get the better of them. I remember during the car magazine's off road shootouts in the desert, magnum engined trucks of any cylinder count fell prey to overheating. This is what lead to the Grand Cherokee with Magnum engines getting the hydraulic cooling fan.

But for overheat protection, I think a better radiator would do more for you.



As for now, the radiator is beautiful. No corrosion, flush came out clear, OEM fluid was changed well before it was time and more OEM fluid in a 50/50 concentration was added. This purple ice was just a supplement to run cooler, not doc anything. Having said that, I will keep this vehicle forever, so when the time comes I will put a bigger/better radiator in it if need be. That time will be a long way off though. It is a 2006 Dodge Ram that JUST rolled over 90k miles this week

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
As far as heat goes, controlled heat actually makes engines last longer.

Ford published data in the 60's about cylinder wall wear and temperature. Wear went down as coolant temp went UP. So running too cool is a real issue.



I had a Holden V-8 where that was demonstrated perfectly.

Previous owner had ditched the terhmostat, meaning that it was running a perpetual "sequence IVA"...tops of the bores, and the valve guides were stuffed...

Both the Holden 6s and 8s are known for more bore ridge on the front pots...the ones bathed in the coolest water.

 

[virginoil]

Just use the OEM coolant and change it regularly.

In respect to thermostat 180 or 195 there was a chart posted that showed the relationship of wear v temperature and at 180 or higher the the 180 and 195 degree lines were so close to almost insignificance for the engine in question.

Below 180 to wear increased as the temperature dropped. Some OEM manufacturers have 180 and 195 deg thermostat for the same engine.

I used Redline water wetter years ago a couple of times it made no difference in terms of where the temperature gauge needle sat I could not get any mechanics to continue the use with confidence. I was concerned continued use chemistry incompatibility would react to form salts etc and cause the radiator to seize. Redline would of course will tell you otherwise.

I should have saved my money and stuck with OEM proven products.

 

[kschachn]

Yes I did, and I apologize if it sounded as if I was arguing with you, I wasn't. I was agreeing and mostly just asking what the rationale was that your neighbor was using.

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Did you read the last portion of my post that you edited out of the quote?

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Yes I did, and I apologize if it sounded as if I was arguing with you, I wasn't. I was agreeing and mostly just asking what the rationale was that your neighbor was using.

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Did you read the last portion of my post that you edited out of the quote?


I apologize for taking it the wrong way.

Honestly I dont know the method to his madness anymore. I have given up aside from him asking mechanical advice. Lol.

 

[slomo]

I've used purple ice and water wetter. No noticeable drop in temps were found. Also had a couple friends try out water wetter along with myself in our motorcycles. Again no drop in temps found. All our bikes ran at the same temp on all the gauges. Waste of money.

Where I can see a possible cooling improvement is when one flushes their coolant and cleans out their radiator, then adds purple water wetter gimmick snake oil junk. All due to the flush and cleaning action of their cooling system.

slomo

 

[jk_636]

Originally Posted By: slomo
I've used purple ice and water wetter. No noticeable drop in temps were found. Also had a couple friends try out water wetter along with myself in our motorcycles. Again no drop in temps found. All our bikes ran at the same temp on all the gauges. Waste of money.

Where I can see a possible cooling improvement is when one flushes their coolant and cleans out their radiator, then adds purple water wetter gimmick snake oil junk. All due to the flush and cleaning action of their cooling system.

slomo


Didn't notice any difference huh? Your bikes aren't air cooled are they?