Top 10 mistakes which causes premature engine wear

[finmile]

I have wondered which could be the main user mistakes which causes premature engine wear. And which of them are more severe and which less likely to cause any problems.
What do you think about the list below? Is it in the right order and do you come up with other issues that might happen? I know I know, it's a bit speculative list, but....

Top 10 user mistakes from worst to least severe (when done on a regular basis):
1) Let the oil level go below minimum
2) Drive WOT with a cold engine
3) Run full OCI while the car faces severe driving conditions (short tripping, stop-and-go driving, excessive idling, dusty conditions, towing or steep hills)
4) Use unnecessary thick oil (two grades up from the recommended), also in sub freeze temperatures
5) Run full OCI using mineral oil
6) Start to drive immediately (however gently) after engine has been started, also in sub freeze temperatures
7) Use the cheapest oil which fulfills the Owner's Manual recommendations
8) Exceed full OCI with a couple thousand miles (with synthetic oil)
9) Change the oil filter only every other (full) OCI
10) Run six months longer OCI than recommended (but miles within the recommended value)

 

[aquariuscsm]

I would also add using too thin of an oil (thinner than spec) especially if you beat on it or race.

 

[LFN]

Why would #5 running a full OCI with mineral oil be a bad thing if it's spec'd by the manufacturer?

My case it's every 5000 miles with the dealer putting in MS5K.

 

[Thermo1223]

Driving gently on cold engine is using the tool for it's purpose.

This isn't 40's we don't need to let cars warm up for 40 mins before a drive.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I would have to say some of these have some unknowns and "ifs" attached to them (and I know you said some speculation involved). Such as:

5) Run full OCI using mineral oil. How does this cause excessive wear? People have been doing this for decades with no appreciative increase in wear.

7) Use the cheapest oil which fulfills the Owner's Manual recommendations If it meets the specifications, how does price factor in? I am not talking about non-approved oils.

8) Exceed full OCI with a couple thousand miles (with synthetic oil)
10) Run six months longer OCI than recommended (but miles within the recommended value)Both of these "depend" on a number of factors which must be considered. Blanket statements like these may be true or they may not--it depends on the vehicle and other conditions.

 

[Pop_Rivit]

Originally Posted By: finmile

What do you think about the list below?


I think most of it's nonsense.

 

[eljefino]

I'd say thick oil and hammering it cold. The rest, meh.

Some stuff like keeping the filter on for 2 cycles might be beneficial as the big pores fill up making it more efficient... and UOAs of 8K mile oil show less wear per 10K than with 4K oil.

 

[Jimzz]

Yea gotta call B-S on these 3...

5) Run full OCI using mineral oil. Unless the car requires a Syn oil then this should not be a problem.

6) Start to drive immediately (however gently) after engine has been started, also in sub freeze temperatures. Most, maybe all, makers tell owners to not let the car idle and to warm it up faster just drive as normal. Oil will flow to all parts of the engine in a matter of a couple seconds.

7) Use the cheapest oil which fulfills the Owner's Manual recommendations. If it fulfills the recommendation then it meets spec. Price does not make a oil good or bad, how it was made and if it meets spec is all that matters.

 

[Kestas]

With the exception of my 71 Cutlass, I've never worn out an engine. I don't worry about it. Here in the rust belt, the car's bodies wear out long before the engine does. I just follow sane oil maintenance practices.

 

[finmile]

Originally Posted By: LFN
Why would #5 running a full OCI with mineral oil be a bad thing if it's spec'd by the manufacturer?

My case it's every 5000 miles with the dealer putting in MS5K.


I quess I'm looking this from Finnish perspective, where "everybody" uses synthetic oil and where the recommended OCI is always at least 15,000km (about 9,300 miles). That's why for me the mineral oil feels like the product of the past.

 

[6starprez]

You started out good with 1 & 2, so just end it there.

 

[dlundblad]

1. I agree.
2. I agree.
3. Eh.. It might make the engine dirty, but we have plenty of sludgers here with thousands of miles that are still kicking.
4. Eh. My moms car is spec'd for a 20 weight, but a 40 can be used if 20 isn't available. Choosing an oil depending on the climate is whats important. (10w40 in -20*F weather isnt a good idea.)
5. Nope. Folks here can get 7500+ out of conventional easily.
6. Nope. Start and drive gently.. No WOT. Some owners manuals specifically say NOT to let the car idle to warm up.
7. Nope. As long as its rated for your car. API whatever.. you're golden. Some vehiles have specs which should be followed though. (Chryslers ms6395 etc.)
8. Nope. Synthetic can easily go further than the recommended OCI assuming it is in great condition. (Clean engine, allowed to get hot and burn off moisture, no excessive idling, fuel dilution etc.) This shouldn't be done without a UOA though IMO.
9. Nope. Some manufacturers say to change the oil filter every other OCI. Folks here including myself, run extended interval filters 2x.. and a few even run them 3x. Just make sure the filter is rated for the anticipated use.
10. Time has nothing to do with oil. Refer to #8 on how to keep oil in good condition.

I hope this helps.

 

[finmile]

Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Driving gently on cold engine is using the tool for it's purpose.

This isn't 40's we don't need to let cars warm up for 40 mins before a drive.


Yes, sure. My thinking here was that that if you always just start and go at 0 degrees F without any idle before, it could cause some wear.

Compared to the situation where you let the car idle for 30-60 seconds before you go.

 

[finmile]

Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: finmile

What do you think about the list below?


I think most of it's nonsense.


As "Top 10" lists always are...?

 

[finmile]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
7) Use the cheapest oil which fulfills the Owner's Manual recommendations If it meets the specifications, how does price factor in? I am not talking about non-approved oils.
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The motivation to this came from the point that many of us here are searching for "the best oil", whatever that means.

So, if such thing exists as "the best oil" then wouldn't "the cheapest oil" mean more wear?

 

[JerryBob]

What about poor air filtration? That should be on here.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Driving gently on cold engine is using the tool for it's purpose.

This isn't 40's we don't need to let cars warm up for 40 mins before a drive.


Tell that to my parents!

 

[OneEyeJack]

You list is a waste of time if you don't include the cooling system. Failures of the cooling system cause more damage to an engine than problems with oil.

 

[MDettling]

I have to add..

"Forgetting to shut off van at home after work"

15 hours of idling in the driveway. I kept smelling rich exhaust in the backyard, and didnt think anything of it.

Next morning, 8:30am I notice the van running, assumed my friend was warming it up. We figured it out and made it to get gas on E.

It has got to be really hard on the Mitsubishi 3.0 with low OP.

being deaf sucks sometimes XD

 

[finmile]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
1. I agree.
2. I agree.
3. Eh.. It might make the engine dirty, but we have plenty of sludgers here with thousands of miles that are still kicking.
4. Eh. My moms car is spec'd for a 20 weight, but a 40 can be used if 20 isn't available. Choosing an oil depending on the climate is whats important. (10w40 in -20*F weather isnt a good idea.)
5. Nope. Folks here can get 7500+ out of conventional easily.
6. Nope. Start and drive gently.. No WOT. Some owners manuals specifically say NOT to let the car idle to warm up.
7. Nope. As long as its rated for your car. API whatever.. you're golden. Some vehiles have specs which should be followed though. (Chryslers ms6395 etc.)
8. Nope. Synthetic can easily go further than the recommended OCI assuming it is in great condition. (Clean engine, allowed to get hot and burn off moisture, no excessive idling, fuel dilution etc.) This shouldn't be done without a UOA though IMO.
9. Nope. Some manufacturers say to change the oil filter every other OCI. Folks here including myself, run extended interval filters 2x.. and a few even run them 3x. Just make sure the filter is rated for the anticipated use.
10. Time has nothing to do with oil. Refer to #8 on how to keep oil in good condition.

I hope this helps.


It does. Thank you