m1 0w40 in place of a 5w30
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Try it and see. I doubt you'll notice any difference
Probably including the vehicle and engine will get you more informed answers.
In general, there should be no issues.
In general, there should be no issues.
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My 2012 Equinox 2.4 ran fine in the summer with MOB 1 0W40. The VVT made really weird noises when it got colder at start up, switched back to MOB 1 5W30, no VVT noise.
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I've used M1 0W-40 in a 5W-30 application for sometime now. I notice no difference between either grades. Startup, fuel economy, oil pressure, everything is the same between the two. I've never experienced some of the more laughable maladies I read parroted around on this forum; a couple of the more memorable ones being super-heated oil and broken oil pumps. I also couldn't care less if my positive displacement oil pump does it's job and goes into bypass.
My Volvo runs great on the 0w40. UOAs have been great too. Ordinary spec is 5W30, but in the footnotes in the OM, it recommends a -40 for severe use. It's VVT, and turbo. Starting it in weather down to 0 degrees has been without issue.
We use M1 0W-40 in my sons 5.4L 3V that is spec for 5W-20! Have been doing this for a few years now... Many 5.4L 3V owners said the engine would grenade if a 20WT oil was not used!
The 5.4L 3V runs so smooth and still has some front engine noise but not near as loud as when 5W-20 was used...
204K miles on her and running Strong! No oil used between our 8K mile OCI.... Great oil and Viscosity!
The 5.4L 3V runs so smooth and still has some front engine noise but not near as loud as when 5W-20 was used...
204K miles on her and running Strong! No oil used between our 8K mile OCI.... Great oil and Viscosity!
I got 60 quarts at a buck a quart. I also have 5w20 m1 high mileage. Vehicle takes 6 quarts. So one 5 quart jug of 0w40 and a single 5w20 was what i was thinking.
Vehicle i am considering is 2013 chevy traverse. with the 3.6 direct injection engine.
Vehicle i am considering is 2013 chevy traverse. with the 3.6 direct injection engine.
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Just use the 40. It's considered one of the best oils on the planet. Why pollute it? You gain nothing by mixing the 20 and screw up the chemistry.
While Mobil 1 0W40 is one of the best oil formulations around it would be thicker than necessary at all temperatures for this application. Yes it will "work" but it's not necessary for your application.
If you use it you probably won't notice a perceived difference but it would be more optimal to either sell/trade or cut it with a 0w20 to achieve and lower HTHS and KV100.
Cutting it will eat into your profits though so you'll have to make the decision based on your finances.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w20 is on the thicker end of the spectrum, to achieve a good blend you need at least 40% of a 0w20 to go with the Mobil 1, but it depends on oil.
If you use it you probably won't notice a perceived difference but it would be more optimal to either sell/trade or cut it with a 0w20 to achieve and lower HTHS and KV100.
Cutting it will eat into your profits though so you'll have to make the decision based on your finances.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w20 is on the thicker end of the spectrum, to achieve a good blend you need at least 40% of a 0w20 to go with the Mobil 1, but it depends on oil.
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It's been discussed at length on this forum that once you start mixing there is no telling what you end up with.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If you use it you probably won't notice a perceived difference but it would be more optimal to either sell/trade or cut it with a 0w20 to achieve and lower HTHS and KV100.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If you use it you probably won't notice a perceived difference but it would be more optimal to either sell/trade or cut it with a 0w20 to achieve and lower HTHS and KV100.
Originally Posted By: jasonal
Vehicle i am considering is 2013 chevy traverse. with the 3.6 direct injection engine.
Is it still under warranty?
Vehicle i am considering is 2013 chevy traverse. with the 3.6 direct injection engine.
Is it still under warranty?
Checking the viscosity calculator if you do mix 1 quart of Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w20 with 5 quarts M1 0w40 you will end up with a KV100 @12.49 which is the top of the 30 grade range so probably a very thick 5w30. So I guess it would work, but the HTHS is still going to be much higher than an off the shelf Dexos 5w30, although since the oil is already paid for I guess you're ahead of the game.
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Originally Posted By: jasonal
I got 60 quarts at a buck a quart. I also have 5w20 m1 high mileage. Vehicle takes 6 quarts. So one 5 quart jug of 0w40 and a single 5w20 was what i was thinking.
Vehicle i am considering is 2013 chevy traverse. with the 3.6 direct injection engine.
I would do four 40s and two 20s. Between November and the end of March, I would do 3 and 3.
I got 60 quarts at a buck a quart. I also have 5w20 m1 high mileage. Vehicle takes 6 quarts. So one 5 quart jug of 0w40 and a single 5w20 was what i was thinking.
Vehicle i am considering is 2013 chevy traverse. with the 3.6 direct injection engine.
I would do four 40s and two 20s. Between November and the end of March, I would do 3 and 3.
If mixing was such a big deal, then there would be engine failure when everyone changes oil brands every OCI and the remaining oil in the engine caused a problem... But there isn't.
You might lose some of the performance from the more stout LL01 0w40, but i doubt anyone is trying to push OCI barriers on a new vehicle anyways, the oil is likely to be dumped before it ever has any issues.
These oils are somewhat similar, although the 0w40 doesn't use magnesium like the high mileage oils do. 1 quart of the HM oil in 6 quart sump is 16.67% of the sump, which will hardly change the calcium/magnesium ppm enough to make any measurable difference. They are both the same level of moly and very similar ZDDP levels. The HM oils only use about 2/3 the level of Boron we typically see in M1 0w40 API SN, but i doubt that makes much of a difference either.
I think since you already have the 5 quart jugs, it would probably be easiest to dump 1 jug + 1 extra quart to get rid of it, and i am sure the engine will be fine.
Also mixing becomes even less of an issue the warmer the climate you are in, and since the OP isn't likely to be in South Dakota, that makes him even safer in his mix.
How much of the Mobil 1 HM 5w20 do you have ? Do you have enough to mix all that 0w40 up for awhile or will you need to seek another 20 grade oil to mix it with?
You might lose some of the performance from the more stout LL01 0w40, but i doubt anyone is trying to push OCI barriers on a new vehicle anyways, the oil is likely to be dumped before it ever has any issues.
These oils are somewhat similar, although the 0w40 doesn't use magnesium like the high mileage oils do. 1 quart of the HM oil in 6 quart sump is 16.67% of the sump, which will hardly change the calcium/magnesium ppm enough to make any measurable difference. They are both the same level of moly and very similar ZDDP levels. The HM oils only use about 2/3 the level of Boron we typically see in M1 0w40 API SN, but i doubt that makes much of a difference either.
I think since you already have the 5 quart jugs, it would probably be easiest to dump 1 jug + 1 extra quart to get rid of it, and i am sure the engine will be fine.
Also mixing becomes even less of an issue the warmer the climate you are in, and since the OP isn't likely to be in South Dakota, that makes him even safer in his mix.
How much of the Mobil 1 HM 5w20 do you have ? Do you have enough to mix all that 0w40 up for awhile or will you need to seek another 20 grade oil to mix it with?
If it's under warranty, use the recommended dexos1 5w-30. Save the 0w-40 for when it's not under warranty.
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