CV joint/boot and tie rod problems

[Oro_O]

I have a 1998 Acura SLX (Isuzu Trooper) and have a CV joint issue.

The boots were torn and I was going to remove and inspect the units, if OK re-pack and reinstall.

The LF went ok, but when I went to take out the RF side, the tie rod end refused to release. Likely original (CV boot appears so, 161k miles total). No rust or real degradation (PNW car). I tried hammering, then a Pittman arm puller. After it broke (too much leverage), I tried a sturdier gear puller. Then heated it with an oxy-acetylene torch and penetrant, hammered, puller pressure, nothing.

I have no noises coming from the joint and it drives perfectly. I decided to set it aside since it appeared I would have to destroy the tie rod end, get an alignment, etc. Ideas?

Also, I noticed when I went to put it back together, there was some slight play if I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and wiggled - from the hub assembly, not the tie rod/steering). None at 6/12 hold. I removed the hub and inspected the bearing and race - all looked good (I had re-packed it a few years ago). I re-installed and properly checked pre-load, etc. but wiggle was still there, again fore-aft and not vertically.

Is that the bearing, or CV joint? Keep driving it until it makes noise and replace, or...?

 

[eljefino]

For your wiggle test, step on the brake to take up the slop in the bearing.

For your tie rod end, it won't pop its shank from the knuckle? Can you spin it off the steering mechanism, slowly, via the adjuster or inner tie rod?

 

[asand1]

The wheel bearing would be loose at every clock position. 9 and 3 only, means the steering is loose. Depending on the steering design it could be an idler arm bushing, drag link joint, inner tie rod, worn rack and pinion, R&P mount bushings, or worn steering gear box.

CV joint would not affect a wiggle test.

 

[zzyzzx]

This is the right type of puller to use for a tie rod end:

The other type that require you to beat on it with a hammer really don't work very well, and they rip the grease boot.

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: asand1
The wheel bearing would be loose at every clock position. 9 and 3 only, means the steering is loose.


This is what I thought, but the wobble is in the hub; e.g. - the tie rod end/knuckle have no play and "move with the wiggle" if you follow me. It isn't the cause and I'm confused.

Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
This is the right type of puller to use for a tie rod end:


Yes, that was the first type of separator I used; the hammer was against the knuckle to assist it in releasing. This puller broke (lower tang) from too much ratchet pressure.