Electronic lock problem on Cannon safe

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I have a Patriot (made by Cannon) gun safe with an electronic lock. About 5 days ago the 9V battery went dead. I replaced it, and then next day it was dead again (replacement battery was suspect). I replaced that with a brand new fresh Duracell. Today it was dead again. Is there something that causes these locks to drain the batteries that fast. The safe is about 3 years old and normal battery replacement was about once every 10 to 12 months. Other than the battery drain, it functions fine.
 
Sent an e-mail to Cannon. They did not reply. Called SecuRam, the maker of the lock, they said the motor locker was bad. I called a few other places and a locksmith told me it was the key pad. I punted. Ordered a new SecuRam SR Extreme kit. Digital keypad, and combination spin dial lock all in one. Either method can be used to open the safe. So if the electronics fail I can still open the safe with the dial. Win-win. List price $480, online in the neighborhood of $200.
 
I just had a conversation today with an ex-marine/locksmith/safe-repair guy earlier today. He said never buy an electronic safe. He's had to drill out several.
 
TERRY HARGEN: "Alright bub, where is that piece of paper that was in my pants pocket?"

SHEMP: "You mean the one with the numbers on it and the letters L-R-L-R-L-R-L?"

TERRY HARGEN: "That's it, that's it, yes, yes where is it?"

SHEMP: "I never saw it."

TERRY HAGEN: "Oh, a wise guy."

43.gif
 
I've had both electronic and manual locks (all S&G brand).

I recently converted an electronic one to manual. I did so as a protection to avoid any EMP issue at the time of worst possible need. Yes - I'm a (mild) prep'er; not a manic by any means. But what's inside may need access when it matters most. I'd rather have a few extra seconds delay due to turning the dial than the alternative of being locked out for a long time (measured in minutes to hours). Because the best case is that my electronic lock fails and I have to replace a battery. Or, drill it out carefully over an hour or so. And that presumes that the lock failed due to internal issues and not EMP. If EMP is the cause, then the drill isn't going to function either!!!


It's all about Risk v. Rewards for me if I have to get into the vault for a "need" and not a "want".
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Sent an e-mail to Cannon. They did not reply. Called SecuRam, the maker of the lock, they said the motor locker was bad. I called a few other places and a locksmith told me it was the key pad. I punted. Ordered a new SecuRam SR Extreme kit. Digital keypad, and combination spin dial lock all in one. Either method can be used to open the safe. So if the electronics fail I can still open the safe with the dial. Win-win. List price $480, online in the neighborhood of $200.


Received and installed the new SecuRam lock, digital and mechanical in one. After installation there was a problem with the mechanical lock. SecuRam has been very responsive and is sending me a new lock. I have found their customer service to be excellant. I will report back after I get the new lock installed.
 
Originally Posted By: paulo57509
TERRY HARGEN: "Alright bub, where is that piece of paper that was in my pants pocket?"

SHEMP: "You mean the one with the numbers on it and the letters L-R-L-R-L-R-L?"

TERRY HARGEN: "That's it, that's it, yes, yes where is it?"

SHEMP: "I never saw it."

TERRY HAGEN: "Oh, a wise guy."

43.gif



LMAO...thanks for that!!!
13.gif
 
New lock installed. Happy camper. Digital key pad works fine, and spin dial lock works fine as well. Appears to be good quality, components are heavy and have a solid feel. I will probably buy another one for my other safe.
 
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