I left it for 10 minutes because if I was going to use the gunk per the directions, I would use it for that long or like 5 min. Plus, it was full strength sample of each, not diluted w engine oil. I was just testing these solvents, not trying to get my engine clean. If I was trying to get it clean, I would taken the entire engine apart. The truck runs perfect as is, no leaks after the manifold gasket replace, so I'm just gonna do normal OCI and there is no doubt the engine will outlast the rest of the truck. also, I'm confident that regular OCI w synthetic and pyb type oil will clean the engine very slowly
sludge under valve cover pics and solvent testing
- Thread starter barkingspider
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I say run a quality full synthetic oil for a reasonable interval, maybe 5k miles (unless it burns oil, then do a shorter interval). Rinse and repeat, and don't worry about it!
Thanks for sharing your results!
Thanks for sharing your results!
That's not real sludge. I wouldn't really worry about it. I'd use a synthetic if I was concerned with cleaning it up.
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
That's not real sludge. I wouldn't really worry about it. I'd use a synthetic if I was concerned with cleaning it up.
I agree.
I'd skip the oil additives personally and just run a high detergent oil for short intervals. Get a cheap filter and change half way though a short OCI. Cut it open and adjust the future filter runs accordingly.
That's not real sludge. I wouldn't really worry about it. I'd use a synthetic if I was concerned with cleaning it up.
I agree.
I'd skip the oil additives personally and just run a high detergent oil for short intervals. Get a cheap filter and change half way though a short OCI. Cut it open and adjust the future filter runs accordingly.
JHZR2
Staff member
that looks like thick, heavy varnish.
A little heat might have helped.
B12 cleaned something that was causing a lifter tick that MMO and Kreen (and HDEOs) couldn't.
A little heat might have helped.
B12 cleaned something that was causing a lifter tick that MMO and Kreen (and HDEOs) couldn't.
If the engine is fine as is, there is nothing to be gained by trying to clean it. No up side, but there could be a down side. Flushing or solvents or synthetic oil might open up a leak that you never knew you had. Removing too much debris at one time could plug an oil passage. If it ain't broke....
There's nothing you can do about that while the engine is still assembled. Your get bet is to run several short OCI's with a high detergent oil like Rotella or MaxLife. Change the oil out when it gets dark.
a good cleaner is going to require heat to work well and TIME! I think this would be a great test engine for a full OCI product like Rislone Engine Treatment. I would say Auto-RX but I'm not sure how it does with those hard deposits. I know ARX will clean deposits and seals but I have no clue the range of soft to hard it can handle.
Also, I'm not sure why people keep suggesting oil for cleaning engines. We haven't seen one thing on this forum since its existence showing regular oil changes cleaning an engine. The only thing I have seen is some pictures from Mobil 1.
Kendall GT1 is supposed to be a great cleaning oil but I can tell you for a fact it does not.
Also, I'm not sure why people keep suggesting oil for cleaning engines. We haven't seen one thing on this forum since its existence showing regular oil changes cleaning an engine. The only thing I have seen is some pictures from Mobil 1.
Kendall GT1 is supposed to be a great cleaning oil but I can tell you for a fact it does not.
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Napa Carburetor cleaner
12hr soak on a 1MZ-FE sludge monster
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
would be interesting to see OP do the same test without removing the heads..maybe soaked rags for 12hrs?
12hr soak on a 1MZ-FE sludge monster
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
would be interesting to see OP do the same test without removing the heads..maybe soaked rags for 12hrs?
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Napa Carburetor cleaner
12hr soak on a 1MZ-FE sludge monster
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
would be interesting to see OP do the same test without removing the heads..maybe soaked rags for 12hrs?
That much sludge on an engine with 8,700 miles on it? That seems a bit far fetched.
Napa Carburetor cleaner
12hr soak on a 1MZ-FE sludge monster
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
would be interesting to see OP do the same test without removing the heads..maybe soaked rags for 12hrs?
That much sludge on an engine with 8,700 miles on it? That seems a bit far fetched.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Napa Carburetor cleaner
12hr soak on a 1MZ-FE sludge monster
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
would be interesting to see OP do the same test without removing the heads..maybe soaked rags for 12hrs?
That much sludge on an engine with 8,700 miles on it? That seems a bit far fetched.
No kidding. 8700 miles and the oil leaves that kind of deposits behind. I'm doubting it.
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Napa Carburetor cleaner
12hr soak on a 1MZ-FE sludge monster
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
would be interesting to see OP do the same test without removing the heads..maybe soaked rags for 12hrs?
That much sludge on an engine with 8,700 miles on it? That seems a bit far fetched.
No kidding. 8700 miles and the oil leaves that kind of deposits behind. I'm doubting it.
I did some internet archaeology and found these posts from 2005
http://www.motorsforum.com/toyota/qslim-s-sludge-pics-are-up-3993-.htm
"I've done plenty of those in the last few years. Being a 2001, its mainly that 8700 miles have taken place over three+ years that caused
the oil evaporization/sludging."
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/52-alt-autos-toyota/73283-sludge-photos.html
"I have another LOVELY de-sludge to do tomorrow ('01 CamryV6 w/ 8700 miles
---- still on the original filter!!!)"
http://www.motorsforum.com/toyota/qslim-s-sludge-pics-are-up-3993-.htm
"I've done plenty of those in the last few years. Being a 2001, its mainly that 8700 miles have taken place over three+ years that caused
the oil evaporization/sludging."
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/52-alt-autos-toyota/73283-sludge-photos.html
"I have another LOVELY de-sludge to do tomorrow ('01 CamryV6 w/ 8700 miles
---- still on the original filter!!!)"
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
I did some internet archaeology and found these posts from 2005
http://www.motorsforum.com/toyota/qslim-s-sludge-pics-are-up-3993-.htm
"I've done plenty of those in the last few years. Being a 2001, its mainly that 8700 miles have taken place over three+ years that caused
the oil evaporization/sludging."
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/52-alt-autos-toyota/73283-sludge-photos.html
"I have another LOVELY de-sludge to do tomorrow ('01 CamryV6 w/ 8700 miles
---- still on the original filter!!!)"
How did the de-sludging job turn out?
I did some internet archaeology and found these posts from 2005
http://www.motorsforum.com/toyota/qslim-s-sludge-pics-are-up-3993-.htm
"I've done plenty of those in the last few years. Being a 2001, its mainly that 8700 miles have taken place over three+ years that caused
the oil evaporization/sludging."
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/52-alt-autos-toyota/73283-sludge-photos.html
"I have another LOVELY de-sludge to do tomorrow ('01 CamryV6 w/ 8700 miles
---- still on the original filter!!!)"
How did the de-sludging job turn out?
What would happen if you completely filled an engine with an aggressive solvent like carb cleaner or a mix of paint thinner, lacquer thinner and alcohol (homemade paint stripper) and let it soak.
I'd put some oil in the cleaning mix for initial lube later when the engine is restarted.
I mean fill it right up to the oil fill hole.
You'd have to tie off the PCV breather.
Pull the plugs and fill the chambers.
Rock the crank back and fourth a little by hand, from time to time.
Drain & pull the oil pan, clean the oil screen.
Close the patient, fresh oil & filter, short OCI.
Would be a hail Mary but easier than a teardown.
I'd put some oil in the cleaning mix for initial lube later when the engine is restarted.
I mean fill it right up to the oil fill hole.
You'd have to tie off the PCV breather.
Pull the plugs and fill the chambers.
Rock the crank back and fourth a little by hand, from time to time.
Drain & pull the oil pan, clean the oil screen.
Close the patient, fresh oil & filter, short OCI.
Would be a hail Mary but easier than a teardown.
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That engine is something, but the best part of that link is where at the end "Qslim thoughtfully puts some oil in the engine" through the cooling system cap. I wonder how long it ran with no oil?
And he cleaned the valve stem seals??
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Napa Carburetor cleaner
12hr soak on a 1MZ-FE sludge monster
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
And he cleaned the valve stem seals??
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Napa Carburetor cleaner
12hr soak on a 1MZ-FE sludge monster
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
What would happen if you completely filled an engine with an aggressive solvent like carb cleaner or a mix of paint thinner, lacquer thinner and alcohol (homemade paint stripper) and let it soak.
I'd put some oil in the cleaning mix for initial lube later when the engine is restarted.
I mean fill it right up to the oil fill hole.
You'd have to tie off the PCV breather.
Pull the plugs and fill the chambers.
Rock the crank back and fourth a little by hand, from time to time.
Drain & pull the oil pan, clean the oil screen.
Close the patient, fresh oil & filter, short OCI.
Would be a hail Mary but easier than a teardown.
Bearings (crank and camshaft) and valve stem seals would be ruined.
BC.
What would happen if you completely filled an engine with an aggressive solvent like carb cleaner or a mix of paint thinner, lacquer thinner and alcohol (homemade paint stripper) and let it soak.
I'd put some oil in the cleaning mix for initial lube later when the engine is restarted.
I mean fill it right up to the oil fill hole.
You'd have to tie off the PCV breather.
Pull the plugs and fill the chambers.
Rock the crank back and fourth a little by hand, from time to time.
Drain & pull the oil pan, clean the oil screen.
Close the patient, fresh oil & filter, short OCI.
Would be a hail Mary but easier than a teardown.
Bearings (crank and camshaft) and valve stem seals would be ruined.
BC.
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