Spark plug boot broke. Stuck on spark plug

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So my car broke down today and found the spark plug boot completely out of the cylinder. I put it back in but noticed it wouldn't stay seated and would just slide back out. I determined the little metal piece inside the boot itself broke off about halfway into the tube. The other end must be still attached to the spark plug. I tried pulling it with a screw driving but no luck. I can't get the spark plug socket around the spark plug to pull it either.

I was able to pull it into a parking lot but it's not at home. I'm hoping I don't need a tow to have it fixed somewhere else. I was on my way into work so I need to get this fixed today. Any ideas?

I replaced the spark plug wires not even 15,000 miles ago with NGK ones. I heard NGK were good.
 
How deep is the recess? If long needle nose pliers won't get it try a magnet on a stick? Go fishing (literally) with a line and a hook and try to pull it out?
 
I had this happen on my old Camry while I was changing the wires. I used a long and thin screwdriver to break apart the old boot down in the tube and blew it out with compressed air.

Sometimes the boot is held to the wire with a rib and sometimes with glue. I would look for glued ones.

Some silicone on the boot itself.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-19576S-Wrench-Replaces/dp/B002WNYG5S

See if you can find an outdoor power equipment spark plug wrench that's about eight inches long.

You'll need to know if your plug is 5/8 hex or 13/16 or something odd, don't blindly buy the above, just something like it.

I'm assuming your wire terminal is stuck on the end of your plug but you have the rest of your wire boot, eg the rubber part. It's odd that it would randomly come off.
 
It's about 6-8 inches deep. It's cylinder #3 on my engine and it's an absolute nightmare to work on. I have to use a special spark plug socket that twists to get in as a regular one just can't make the turn. I can't see at all what I'm doing either.

Do you think a coat hanger would be able to somehow hook on? I'll try to bring a few different things to try when I go back.
 
Yea the whole boot comes off and I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't stay seated at first until I compared it to one of the other boots. There's probably 2 inches of metal still connected to the end of the spark plug. Is it even magnetic?
 
plastic/rubber vs cold equals 'snap' I have the same wires on my EJ25..so i feel your pain on that spark plug. Good wires.


The metal part you are referring to is probably an aluminum alloy...so no go on the magnet.

Im guessing that your spark plug wrench has the rubber part inside that helps the spark plug out? If so you need to remove that rubber piece to remove your spark plug. That is probably hindering you from pushing the socket onto the plug.
 
Yes it has the rubber inside the spark plug wrench. I'll see if I can remove it and maybe it will be able to slide around and get the spark plug off.
 
I purchased a 12" hemostat similar to this Hemostat (SE 612FS 12-Inch Straight) which is on amazon.com. I have used it with success on a few vehicles with the same problem you describe. It's a handy tool.
Good luck
 
That tool may work in his application on a rack with some massaging of the inner fender well, but changing plugs from the top on a subaru is blind faith.
 
Originally Posted By: svchareta
I purchased a 12" hemostat similar to this Hemostat (SE 612FS 12-Inch Straight) which is on amazon.com. I have used it with success on a few vehicles with the same problem you describe. It's a handy tool.
Good luck
That's what I use in the long Camry I 4 tubes when this happens. Good thing is you can LOCk a hemostat on.
 
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I just couldn't do it. I tried everything and my knuckles are all bloody from it. The work area is just too tight. Getting it towed to Subaru.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleApex
I just couldn't do it. I tried everything and my knuckles are all bloody from it. The work area is just too tight. Getting it towed to Subaru.
I know you don't need the Monday AM stuff but something like Superlube grease, which is a dielectric, on the inside of the boot and the plug terminal will prevent this without causing electrical problems.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: DoubleApex
I just couldn't do it. I tried everything and my knuckles are all bloody from it. The work area is just too tight. Getting it towed to Subaru.
I know you don't need the Monday AM stuff but something like Superlube grease, which is a dielectric, on the inside of the boot and the plug terminal will prevent this without causing electrical problems.


I'll have to check that out. Thanks.
 
Sorry for your troubles - been there doing tune-ups through the past 45 years.
NGK wire sets i've used are garbage, but so are most Subaru service replacements. The JDM OE USA sourced cables on the car were good. Only two cable O.E. know the magic trick of good high-tension insulation design and manufacturing, In my experience. Parckard is one. FUJI HI JDM source Packard wire from the States to make their high tension ignition wires - instead of NIPPON Denso - in facvt they came with Champion USA made plugs too in the 1.8L. #8 heatrange.
 
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: svchareta
I purchased a 12" hemostat similar to this Hemostat (SE 612FS 12-Inch Straight) which is on amazon.com. I have used it with success on a few vehicles with the same problem you describe. It's a handy tool.
Good luck
That's what I use in the long Camry I 4 tubes when this happens. Good thing is you can LOCk a hemostat on.


GearPliers also lock, at any ratchet click position.
 
this is probably too late, but you can still do it yourself...its hard to describe so i found a picture of what you need to do.

1)the wire grommet is still stuck on the plug
2)spark plug socket wont go over the grommet, allowing you to use your ratchet.
3)see picture...and push that socket down over the plug and the grommet..and use another socket (deep well) over the spark plug socket. I know its showing an open end wrench, but use a socket to go over that.


SLE-30102.jpg
 
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