Are wheel studs routine for tire shops, or..

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..or, does that fall under the realm of "Mechanical Repair" and need more than the tire shop can do?

It is the 99 Expie. Why am I thinking of a "spindle."

This wheel is coming off ASAP.

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fairly sure mechanic repair is the category, different brands require different degrees of repair. some you knock out easy, others....
 
Wheel studs are as easy as it gets, knock the one out and put the new one in with the lug but pulling it. Tire shops charge about an extra $2 per stud I think around here.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Wheel studs are as easy as it gets, knock the one out and put the new one in with the lug but pulling it. Tire shops charge about an extra $2 per stud I think around here.


I spent three hours yesterday removing/replacing a broken wheel stud on my daughter's Kia Sedona van.

Raise vehicle.
Remove wheel.
Remove caliper/brake pads.
Remove rotor.
Cut remains of broken stud flush with wheel hub with saw.
Drill out broken stud.
Collapse said stud with chisel and hammer.
Pound out remains of collapsed stud with hammer and punch.
Install new stud, (working around the dust shield in a creative way).
Reinstall rotor/caliper/brake pads.
Reinstall wheel.
Lower vehicle from jack stands.

3 hours.

And this on a vehicle that has never been out of the State of Florida, (therefore, never driven on salted roads and affected by the rust said salted roads creates).
 
By the time they put the labor into removing the hub. You might as well just replace the whole hub. It's like an 80$$ part you can change yourself. Less labor involved too.
 
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Originally Posted By: EvanD
By the time they put the labor into removing the hub. You might as well just replace the whole hub. It's like an 80$$ part you can change yourself. Less labor involved too.


I know on my Jeep, I could change out a hub bearing in 1/10 the time it would take to replace a broken stud.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: EvanD
By the time they put the labor into removing the hub. You might as well just replace the whole hub. It's like an 80$$ part you can change yourself. Less labor involved too.


I know on my Jeep, I could change out a hub bearing in 1/10 the time it would take to replace a broken stud.


I'll guess that the broken stud is on the front axle by the size of the brake caliper, so take this advice. FoMoCo SUVs are known to eat up front hub bearings, so just the act of pounding out the broken stud will likely doom the bearing. Get both problems taken care of in one step.
 
I'm not familiar with the front suspension on those - but if it's just a unit bearing that's bolted in ... should be pretty quick ...


Edit: Just googled. It's a unit bearing that is not pressed in. I bet it's a lot easier to replace the bearing than it is the stud.
 
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Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
I'll guess that the broken stud is on the front axle by the size of the brake caliper, so take this advice. FoMoCo SUVs are known to eat up front hub bearings, so just the act of pounding out the broken stud will likely doom the bearing. Get both problems taken care of in one step.

I have the same SUV (a few years newer). My front hub bearings are original with 180,000 miles on them. My Explorer chewed through hubs, but we've never had that problem on the three Expeditions we've owned (98, 2000 and the 2002).
 
Take wheel off. Turn hub until broken stud has nothing or very little behind it, may have to take brake caliper off. Take one hammer and place it over broken stud. Take another hammer and hit first hammer with a good solid swing. Pick up broken stud and throw away. Place new stud in hole. Take wheel nut backwards, with big oversized washer on stud first. Use a little oil or lube and buzz nut on with good impact. Rattle impact pretty good, or torque it to 30lbs more than what factory torque spec is. Take nut and washer off and put wheel on.



All done
 
Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
Cut remains of broken stud flush with wheel hub with saw.
Drill out broken stud.
Collapse said stud with chisel and hammer.
Pound out remains of collapsed stud with hammer and punch.

Why did you need to do any of this? A solid smack on the end of the broken stud with a decent-sized hammer should have made all of these steps irrelevant.
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
Cut remains of broken stud flush with wheel hub with saw.
Drill out broken stud.
Collapse said stud with chisel and hammer.
Pound out remains of collapsed stud with hammer and punch.

Why did you need to do any of this? A solid smack on the end of the broken stud with a decent-sized hammer should have made all of these steps irrelevant.

+1

I've done a few of these in about 20 minutes. Of course, there may have been more to the story.
 
Originally Posted By: Srt20
Take wheel off. Turn hub until broken stud has nothing or very little behind it, may have to take brake caliper off. Take one hammer and place it over broken stud. Take another hammer and hit first hammer with a good solid swing. Pick up broken stud and throw away. Place new stud in hole. Take wheel nut backwards, with big oversized washer on stud first. Use a little oil or lube and buzz nut on with good impact. Rattle impact pretty good, or torque it to 30lbs more than what factory torque spec is. Take nut and washer off and put wheel on.



All done


hitting a hammer with another hammer? is the first hammer some sort of non-hardened hammer? or is the second one a deadblow?
 
Seems wrong to use a hammer. Sharp blows to the bearing? I realize bouncing off potholes is rough too but the tire has to remove some of the sharpness. Sounds like it is the way to do it though.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: Srt20
Take wheel off. Turn hub until broken stud has nothing or very little behind it, may have to take brake caliper off. Take one hammer and place it over broken stud. Take another hammer and hit first hammer with a good solid swing. Pick up broken stud and throw away. Place new stud in hole. Take wheel nut backwards, with big oversized washer on stud first. Use a little oil or lube and buzz nut on with good impact. Rattle impact pretty good, or torque it to 30lbs more than what factory torque spec is. Take nut and washer off and put wheel on.



All done


hitting a hammer with another hammer? is the first hammer some sort of non-hardened hammer? or is the second one a deadblow?


Yes one hammer will work. But 2 hammers work better.
Most people that don't work with tools everyday aren't all that good with them. So they have a much greater chance at missing and grazing, or flat out hitting another stud. Well do that and there is a good chance you screwed up,that stud too. Before you know it, you will have to replace all the studs.

Just use two hammers and don't screw the rest up.


It doesn't take a 15lb sledgehammer to pop the studs out. One solid whack and the stud comes out. the bearing will be fine. If it can't handle it, it can't handle the weight of the vehicle.
 
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