Originally Posted By: chrome
Do you also have the correct crank pulley tool and a large breaker bar? Or a powerful impact gun? The Honda crank pulley bolt is notoriously difficult to break loose.
Im to see if my 1/2 inch dewalt 20v impact can take it off, however I do have two 1/2" breaker bars with extensions. I am going to rent the pulley removal tool from oreillys.
Originally Posted By: JamesBond
Where did you get your parts?
I got the accessory belts, gates timing belt and koyo tensioner from amazon. I got the NPW japan made waterpump from ebay. The front camshaft and crankshaft seals, rear camshaft cap seal and lower motor torque mount are from benardi acura.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
The timing belt changes from car to car, and you want specific instruction, not a rule of thumb.
Accessory belts aren't as important. I've heard that you should be able to twist by hand, 90 degrees, the longest side of a V-belt. But if you go too tight, you wreck bearings. Go loose and retighten after they run in for a couple weeks.
I heard about the 90" degree as well.
Originally Posted By: paulo57509
Tension on the timing belt is kind of automatic. It's taken care of by the tensioner. The only place that I have ever come across a timing belt tension spec is for a belt-driven Ducati. However, read your FSM just in case.
For the accessory belts, I've never used any kind tension gauge. I tension the belts by deflection; essentially feel developed from four decades of replacing belts on mine and customer's vehicles. I've not had accessory bearing failures from the belts being too tight or belts getting flung off or squealing because they're too loose.
Bando!
Heard good things about bando. Infact, the accessory belts now on my car are all bando. These new bando belts seem to use a furry foam like material where the belt meets the pulleys. The ones in my car look to be rubber.
Thanks all for your replies. Can't wait to tackle this