Mix up my own CV Grease?

[AttackingMid]

I am considering mixing up my own CV grease, as I've been unable to find polyurea based grease with molybdenum disulfide in anything other than expensive little pillow packs.

I believe most of the OEM Rzeppa CV joints are packed with polyurea/moly grease due to its ability to remain stable for many years and many thousands of miles. In essence, most of those bearings need to be greased for life when they leave the factory.

Virtually all of the aftermarket CV greases are of some other base (eg., Redline CV-2 is calcium, Swepco 101 is bentonite, Valvoline is lithium). These may all be fine/superior for racing applications where the grease will be replaced before it can deteriorate, but as a regular guy who keeps his cars until death, I just want to be able to service my vehicles once and hopefully never need to pull those joints apart again.

I can buy fine grade MoS2 powder for $3/ounce, and John Deere sells a decent quality polyurea base grease for $4. Each 14 oz. tube would require about 0.7 oz. of MoS2 to make a Polyurea grease with 5% moly. Hence, for about $7/tube, I can service my CV's with a longer lasting grease than anything I've found commercially available.

Any thoughts?

AM.

 

[Quest]

aftermarket CV boot kit typically comes with CV grease pack. Simply clean out the old grease and repack with this new CV grease and you are home free.

Why bother mixing your own? Afterall: I don't think you (and I) have the capability to ensure that the end result(outcome) of the grease will meet the application needs, other than that basic lubrication properties typical of grease.

Q.

 

[Donald]

I would not suggest it. Get a quality CV grease from a top name.

 

[another Todd]

When your done mixing, just make sure you wipe out the wife's mixer before putting it back in the cabinet. And make sure she is not home when you do it.

 

[Shannow]

Have messed around doing similar 25 or so years ago, trying to out-do the grease makers (or at least their prices)...ended up spending more in the long run, as I had to buy their stuff anyway.

I found that the greases were a balance of thickeners additives and oils.

Throw in a solid (graphite or MoSs), and there wasn't enough lubricant to keep it liquid enough, so I'd throw in some EP gear oil to get it back to a consistency that looked grease like.

No idea of any of the grease parameters, NGLI number, worked penetration etc.

And it "split" into a layer cake of goo between one repack and the next.

If it floats your boat, do it...but the proper product is long term less expensive.

 

[AttackingMid]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Have messed around doing similar 25 or so years ago, trying to out-do the grease makers (or at least their prices)...ended up spending more in the long run, as I had to buy their stuff anyway.

I found that the greases were a balance of thickeners additives and oils.

Throw in a solid (graphite or MoSs), and there wasn't enough lubricant to keep it liquid enough, so I'd throw in some EP gear oil to get it back to a consistency that looked grease like.

No idea of any of the grease parameters, NGLI number, worked penetration etc.

And it "split" into a layer cake of goo between one repack and the next.

If it floats your boat, do it...but the proper product is long term less expensive.


Interesting. Thanks - that was the kind of feedback I was looking for.

AM.