When to use or not use anti-seize lubricant?

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When I did the plugs on my aluminum-head focus they did the creaking and crunching thing on the way out. I applied a small amount of anti seize to the threads when I installed the new ones. They are finger tight and about 1/8 turn more. Figured that was all it needed!
 
I have always anti seized my nuts, but I try not to get any on the chamfer (nut or wheel). If lug centered.
 
I was introduced to antiseize compounds back in 1983. It was a heaven-sent product for us guys in the Rust Belt.

Before that, I used to dip all fasteners threads in rustproof compound.
 
Anti seize before they go in
Kroil/PB blaster before they come out


I heavily rely on this method as i would be completely helpless if a bolt head sheared off, boogered the threads or any other problem installing/removing a fastener.
 
In 42 years of doing this work every day i never lived or worked anywhere but the rust belt. Southern Germany is the same as the NE for salt on the roads.
My first encounter with a bad plugs was on a Cadillac engine in school, OE plugs left in for a few years and a head had to come off because some broke.

Over the years i have seen NGK, Bosch, Champion, etc with plating seize in the heads, non plated seize at the drop of a hat. Lot of inserts done over the years.
I use anti seize of almost everything inc wheel studs.

Don't overdo it, just a very thin coating is all it takes. I never had lugs or anything else loosen that i didn't want to loosen.

.
 
Never, ever, put it on the seat face of the stud nut or stud bolt. We've done studies and found these assemblies will deform and crack if antiseize is slathered on all the surfaces and installed to specified torque. Just a light coating on the threads should be okay.
 
The never-seize web site tells you how much less torque to use based on the type your using and there are a bunch. I generally drop by 20% and if it is something threaded into aluminum I will drop 25% off. Never had any trouble always use it on lug nuts but never on the face / taper of the nut or wheel, just a little on the threads. I also mix it 70/30 with powerpunch grease(70) as brake pin lube, MX bike suspension needle bearing lube etc. Works great and seems to last better than the specific brake pin grease. I also prefer the marine grade as it seems to last longer.
 
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Its probably banned in Cali, anyways.

Ilive in the South and use AS on everything, well, anything that comes apart dirtty, groans, or such. Inside like on ashtray screws I might pass. On my spark plugs iamputting copper on four of the plugs and generic silver on the other four, as an experiment. I'll try and post the results when they are pulled, inhopefully 100,000 miles fromnow.
 
I use regular chassis grease on the lugs and hubs. Plugs aren't a problem if you use coppers. I took out the rear plugs 3 and 6 on the Rat, they were perfect.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Never, ever, put it on the seat face of the stud nut or stud bolt. We've done studies and found these assemblies will deform and crack if antiseize is slathered on all the surfaces and installed to specified torque. Just a light coating on the threads should be okay.


Because if you install to normal torque then you have overtensioned the studs/bolts, that's not the anti-siezes fault, that's the nut holding the wrench.

I antisieze the seats/faces and threads of all the nuts and bolt for wheels, and I've bent, buckled and clean sheared wheels off without them coming loose.
 
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