Is Quaker State Full Synthetic on par with others?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 2, 2009
Messages
162
Location
Chicago, Illinois - In a van down by the river!
I have 2 cars that I usually run to about 7500 miles OCI with Purolator Pure Ones. I have been using Quaker State Full Synthetic that I get on sale at Menard's for $3 AR. I've run the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum before, but is it worth the extra dollars over the Quaker State? Do people know where can I find reports of their relative quality vs. anecdotal evidence?
 
Qauker State has been my go to brand lately and I prefer it over Pennzoil. It should work fine with that OCI depending on driving style and is a good product. Fact that it's cheaper is even better.
 
SOPUS owns Pennzoil and QS. I'm running QSUD in all my cars at the moment. It's always cheaper than M1 and the other big name syns at Wally World and I think it's just as good. Definitely one of the quietest oils I've used.

Google QSUD UOAs and you'll find links to them on BITOG.
 
Last edited:
PU, Edge w/Ti, and M1 EP are a step up for 10KMI OCI. Then you have the ACEA BMWLL01 like Motul XMAX and Pentosyn and FUCHS, then AMSOIL SIG wich are ANOTHER step up in DP % and base stock quality for LONG/ANNUAL OCI applications.
 
Personally after trying then ALL over the last 3 years, I prefer VALVOLINE SYNPOWER over M1 and SOPUS for cleanliness and fuel mileage retention over the OCI. I f you have a dry timing system, it probably doesnt matter as much.
 
Perfectly good oil, I use it for short winter OCIs but I'm sure it could easily go 8-9k depending on the application.
 
Yes it on par for wear performance, maybe not quite as much detergency (calcium) and sludge resistance (boron) compared to Pennz Ultra. Pennzoil claims Ultra is cleaner at the piston rings, and the basic ingredients comparisons seem to support that.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html
I appreciate your desire to avoid anecdotal opinions here.
People like to quickly come on here and say "Its real good!".
For 7,500 miles there shouldn't be much diff.

There was a UOA that showed 1 ppm iron per 1,000 miles accumulated using QuakerSUD, which is very good, although they also put in Ceratec. Maybe some other UOAs you find with QSUD will have comparable performance.

Some facts:
SOPUS (Shell-Pennzoil) is behind it. Great company, enjoyed their tour, proving they have good engineering behind them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUr7-Ug1Uqc at the 4:40 point in the video.
Also, its known Quaker State Ultimate Durability QSUD uses Infineum's trinuclear moly, not a cheap-skate thing to add in those amounts (249 ppm in 0w-20, and 58 ppm 5w-30).
 
Originally Posted By: zach1900
What's up with this hillbilly Menards place?
LOL-Missourian calling someone/thing a hillbilly! It's similar to Lowe's or Home Depot, with a better auto department. Best place to get Rotella 10W30 for sure.
 
Originally Posted By: zach1900
What's up with this hillbilly Menards place?


Apparently, it is only "hillbilly" when you DON'T have one nearby...
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Originally Posted By: zach1900
What's up with this hillbilly Menards place?


Apparently, it is only "hillbilly" when you DON'T have one nearby...
wink.gif



I was in a Menard's and they kept playing banjo music from "Deliverance" over the store speakers. Ran out of their just in time.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Personally after trying then ALL over the last 3 years, I prefer VALVOLINE SYNPOWER over M1 and SOPUS for cleanliness and fuel mileage retention over the OCI. I f you have a dry timing system, it probably doesnt matter as much.


I agree, I've been really impressed with Valvoline Synpower lately as well..my vehicles are unusually quiet on synpower.

OP QSUD is a good oil for the money. I've used it in the past and it did well.
 
There is a rebate on the quakerstate website for $20. At Walmart prices it is pretty much free.bmay get a jug. I have been waiting since I have some pp stashed. Curious to give it a shot
 
that $20 rebate is only when you sign up for their warranty program.

being as I drive an older car, I cannot signup for the warranty, and thus cannot get the rebate.
 
Originally Posted By: CrawfishTails
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Originally Posted By: zach1900
What's up with this hillbilly Menards place?


Apparently, it is only "hillbilly" when you DON'T have one nearby...
wink.gif



I was in a Menard's and they kept playing banjo music from "Deliverance" over the store speakers. Ran out of their just in time.


Menards is like a Farm and Fleet but with more tools...
smile.gif
 
As far as I can tell (and I may be blowing smoke from my tailpipe) it is a solid Group III mineral oil based synthetic. Nothing wrong with that, good price. You can compare numbers here.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html

Even though it is from Shell like PP, it is a different base oil. I would give PP an nod above due to the group III being synthesized from natural gas which puts it on the top of all the group III oils in my book.
 
Here's my QS story. My pops bought a then new 1968 Ford F100 with the 360 V-8 off the showroom floor. He used Quaker green bottle 10w-40 RELIGIOUSLY with wait for it.... a Fram filter. At times he would use a Motorcraft filter if they were on sale. OCI's were every 6 months rain or shine.

At the OCI, you could remove the dipstick in the garage and NOT see the oil or it's level on the stick. You had to go outside in the sun to see the oil level. It was that clean. This was after 40 plus years and over 160K miles.

Dad said when it was new (1968) it had lifter knock. He dumped in a quart of Rislone and cured it. So he used Rislone since then. Probably why his oil and engine was so clean. We pulled his valve cover to replace the gasket. Zero sludge or residue of any kind. Looked like a new cars valve cover. That was probably 38 years on the truck then.

slomo
 
Originally Posted By: meborder
that $20 rebate is only when you sign up for their warranty program.

being as I drive an older car, I cannot signup for the warranty, and thus cannot get the rebate.


Oops. My 1993 Accord shows up as a 2014 Accord. Must have slipped while punching numbers into the keyboard or something
wink.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top