Any Benefit from 0W-20 to 0W-30

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After reading this article over and over I was only thinking would owners see any benefit in lubrication going from a 0W-20 to a 0W-30? Or would a jump to 10W-30 be the only real world benefit.

Or should your daily driver even bother worrying about what this article has to say?

My new Ram has the MDS system which works of oil psi and some owners who have switched to 5W-30 have reported throwing a CEL due to the thicker viscosity!

I was really contemplating switching to M1 AFE 0W-30 for my summer oil change and just sticking with it year round...

Am I even retarded for thinking about switching to 0W-30 from 0W-20?

Your Thoughts!

Here is the Article!

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articles/print/518
 
The MDS thing is bunk. Some of the MDS engines spec 0w-40 IIRC, LOL! Also, viscosity correlates with temperature. The oil in my Charger this winter, despite being 0w-20, is a heck of a lot thicker than the 0w-30 will be in a place like Florida for example.
 
If I were you, I would stick with what the manufacturer recommends. If you change your oil with regularity, and use quality stuff, engine wear is not what is going to put that truck out of commission.

0W/XX oils are of very high quality, and protect at least as well as the 5W/XX oil they replace.

Especially with the identified issue with using 30 weight oil in your engine type, why would you want to cause problems?

That article is one long, simple opinion. No research or facts involved.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I have m1 0w 30 in my truck now, it is actually heavier at operating temp then some 5w-30 oils.

Good point!

Example: Mobil 1 5W-30 is lighter than than their 0W-30 down to around -20*F (+/-). Below that 0W-30 has the advantage. At 40*C. their 5W-30 is about 3%+ lighter than the 0W-30, so for the vast majority of the driving conditions in America, a 5W-30 offers superior performance (to their 0W-30) in the Mobil 1 line-up.

Personally, I buy Mobil 1 0W-20 EP and 0W-40 and blend a slightly superior oil using the higher quality base-stocks zero weight oils typically have.
 
147Grain: That is exactly what I am doing now 5Qts M1 AFE 0W-20 and 2Qts M1 0W-40 ... 5.7L is Quiet and Smooth as Silk...

I just read the article and had me thinking!
 
I use 0w-40 in my MDS equipped charger during the warmer months and yes I've thrown a code once or twice for oil too thick however it doesn't anymore which I find interesting.
Regardless the mds system operates just fine with thicker oil. It's a non issue
 
But trust in the engineers that design your engine don't over think them blah blah blah . Go ahead and try a 0w30 or 0w40



Originally Posted By: -SyN-
After reading this article over and over I was only thinking would owners see any benefit in lubrication going from a 0W-20 to a 0W-30? Or would a jump to 10W-30 be the only real world benefit.

Or should your daily driver even bother worrying about what this article has to say?

My new Ram has the MDS system which works of oil psi and some owners who have switched to 5W-30 have reported throwing a CEL due to the thicker viscosity!

I was really contemplating switching to M1 AFE 0W-30 for my summer oil change and just sticking with it year round...

Am I even retarded for thinking about switching to 0W-30 from 0W-20?

Your Thoughts!

Here is the Article!

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articles/print/518
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
The MDS thing is bunk. Some of the MDS engines spec 0w-40 IIRC, LOL! Also, viscosity correlates with temperature. The oil in my Charger this winter, despite being 0w-20, is a heck of a lot thicker than the 0w-30 will be in a place like Florida for example.

Yeah. Ambient temperature plays an importance role in the oil thickness.

In your area in winter, any 0W20 is much thicker than 0W30 or even 0W40, if you drive less than 10 miles when your ambient temperature is below -20C while we are at +20C. After 15-20 minutes of driving your oil temp is probably less than 60-70C while our oil temp can be as high as 80-90C.
 
0w-20 is CAFE but it seems to work so far. Unless I lived in the arctic I choose a 0 or 5 or 10 w-30 or 40 depending on the vehicle and don't worry about it. I worry about other things taking the motor out not the oil I use.
 
1 or 2 cst at operating temps isn't going to make a lick of difference on way or another. Now if this were a DI fuel diluter I would go with the 30 weight.
 
Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I have m1 0w 30 in my truck now, it is actually heavier at operating temp then some 5w-30 oils.

Good point!

Example: Mobil 1 5W-30 is lighter than than their 0W-30 down to around -20*F (+/-). Below that 0W-30 has the advantage. At 40*C. their 5W-30 is about 3%+ lighter than the 0W-30, so for the vast majority of the driving conditions in America, a 5W-30 offers superior performance (to their 0W-30) in the Mobil 1 line-up.

Personally, I buy Mobil 1 0W-20 EP and 0W-40 and blend a slightly superior oil using the higher quality base-stocks zero weight oils typically have.


What's that based on? According to the CCS data we have for M1 5w-30, its CCS is 3,937cP @ -30C. We don't have CCS for the AFE 0w-30, but we do have MRV, and it is 13,250cP, which is extremely good. I would wager the CCS for the 0w-30 is in the 4,000cP range.

If we extrapolate backwards:

Temp 0w-30 5w-30
-35C ~4000cP >6,600cP
-30C 2000cP 3,937cP
-25C 1000cP ~2000cP
-20C 500cP 1000cP
-15C 250cP 500cP

-15C (5F) is the highest I've seen CCS shown at for a 0w-xx grade, so I've chosen to stop there. But basically, the 0w-30 is going to be half as thick as your 5w-30 at your -20F (-29C). In fact, even if the AFE oil was at the absolute limits of the spec for CCS (6,200cP @ -35c) it would still be lighter than the 5w-30 at -30C, being around 3,100cP.
 
If 10w-30 is better then straight 30W then 5w-30 might be better than 10w-30 then why not consider that 0w-30 might be the best for all round lubrication performance in 30 weight oils?

Progress....
 
If all things were equal, then yes, 0W30 would be the ultimate.

However, they aren't equal.

the 0W30 will typically be made from thinner basestocks, which are more volatile, and have less inherent viscosity, and hopped up with polymeric VII to get the KV100 back, and the high VI.

These shortcomings mean that a 5W, or 10W may well be a substantially more robust total package if you don't need the 0W for your climate.
 
CT8 0w-20 is CAFE but it seems to work so far. Unless I lived in th.....e arctic I choose a 0 or 5 or 10 w-30 or 40 depending on the vehicle and don't worry about it. I worry about other things taking the motor out not the oil I use.[0/quote said:
+1....agree. Have used M-1 0w20 are for two OC in my 03'Ford Focus, and it works for me. Will use it again. My last OCI was at 9,650 and I use a Fram Ultra filter (which I'll use a second time). My engine runs smooth and is clean as can be.
 
Long life oils are as robust as anyone can dream of. Those having the Dexos 2 spec for example are good for 20.000 miles on gasoline engines and 30.000 miles on diesel engines. The thing is that a 0W-30 tends to be more expensive than 5W-30 and much more expensive than a 10W-30 (though I have never seen a long life 10W-30).
Oil life nowadays is an issue of specs not viscosity.
 
Memphis: I myself will always trust my elders and the older generation of Folks! apposed to these newer puppets of our so called Government!!

The Days of Honesty and Respect are Gone!!!

Even though it is an old article I tend to trust these facts alot more then what is published today which is dictated by the Government in some way shape or form! Just Me!!!

I will try M1 AFE 0W-30 with a pinch of M1 0W-40 this spring!
In both the Edge and Ram! The 5.4L 3V really likes the Thicker 0W-40!-->Which many owners told me the 5.4L 3V would grenade if I used anything other then 5W-20!!! 214K miles and running like a Champ!

Thanks for all the replies and advice..
 
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