engine oil in cold weather pumping
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I was looking for that video to show my father.
We got in an argument about idling/warm up. We agree on many things ... that is not one of them!
We got in an argument about idling/warm up. We agree on many things ... that is not one of them!
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I was looking for that video to show my father.
We got in an argument about idling/warm up. We agree on many things ... that is not one of them!
I have to ask, was are the details of your disagreement. One person is a start and drive ....the other is a warm it up first?
I was looking for that video to show my father.
We got in an argument about idling/warm up. We agree on many things ... that is not one of them!
I have to ask, was are the details of your disagreement. One person is a start and drive ....the other is a warm it up first?
The part at 8 mins shows where the 0W comes into play, noting that all of the demonstration is done at a temperature appropriate for 0W, and below the pumpability measuring temperatures for 5W and upward.
If it can make it into the oil pump, it will get pumped.
Increase the temperatures 5C, to -30C, and the 5W will be as good as the 0W was at -35, 10W will be as good at -25C etc.etc.
Interesting at 4:20 they state the 0W30 is a synthetic blend.
I'll stick to 5W and 10W, as they are entirely appropriate for my climate, and have more "oil"/less VII in them than the 0W alternatives.
This Lubrizol Link is interesting, a demonstration of additive degradation between poorly and well formulated 10W40 after running in an engine.
If it can make it into the oil pump, it will get pumped.
Increase the temperatures 5C, to -30C, and the 5W will be as good as the 0W was at -35, 10W will be as good at -25C etc.etc.
Interesting at 4:20 they state the 0W30 is a synthetic blend.
I'll stick to 5W and 10W, as they are entirely appropriate for my climate, and have more "oil"/less VII in them than the 0W alternatives.
This Lubrizol Link is interesting, a demonstration of additive degradation between poorly and well formulated 10W40 after running in an engine.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Cold starting is just one of many reasons to use a quality synthetic oil.
+1.....Coldest I've started in was -10(F)....using M-1 0w20 AFE. No problems at that temperature.
Cold starting is just one of many reasons to use a quality synthetic oil.
+1.....Coldest I've started in was -10(F)....using M-1 0w20 AFE. No problems at that temperature.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Cold starting is just one of many reasons to use a quality synthetic oil.
+1.....Agree that synthetics are the best for cold startups.
Coldest I've started in was -10(F)....using M-1 0w20 AFE. No problems at that temperature.
Cold starting is just one of many reasons to use a quality synthetic oil.
+1.....Agree that synthetics are the best for cold startups.
Coldest I've started in was -10(F)....using M-1 0w20 AFE. No problems at that temperature.
Some say the pour-point spec is meaningless, but then we see the demonstration.
One mistake I was making was putting my winter oil in the vehicle ahead of time.
Sometimes a month or two early.
Ageing and cold performance don't mix.
And that goes for engine oil too.
One mistake I was making was putting my winter oil in the vehicle ahead of time.
Sometimes a month or two early.
Ageing and cold performance don't mix.
And that goes for engine oil too.
Ow that used 10w40 was in pretty bad condition, very thick and full of contaminants. I never ran an engine oil to that point. What's that a dino with 15k miles?
I got spoiled using 0W40 and 5W40 in everything and not having to
plug the cars and trucks in during cold weather.
Then I tried 10W40 last winter, but changed the oil before going
on a 3,000 mile trip in October.
By the time winter was half over at the 5,000 mile mark,
the cold starts were becoming an issue.
I thought that the aged oil should have been sheared down to
a 5W30 by that point, and cold performance better.
The Lubrizol demonstration shows otherwise and confirmed my observation.
plug the cars and trucks in during cold weather.
Then I tried 10W40 last winter, but changed the oil before going
on a 3,000 mile trip in October.
By the time winter was half over at the 5,000 mile mark,
the cold starts were becoming an issue.
I thought that the aged oil should have been sheared down to
a 5W30 by that point, and cold performance better.
The Lubrizol demonstration shows otherwise and confirmed my observation.
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An oil 10w40, sheared, wouldn't get to 5w30, I'd say more like a 15w30. It would narrow on both sides, thickening the winter side and thinnig at the operational temperature.
Your not considering the impact of fuel dilution and its mitigation of wax coagulation.
If it's a carbed with manual choke engine ... My engines don't get more than 1/2 of fuel in oil. Recent diesel engines are running with like 5-9% fuel dilution (DPF), then it is impacting, but less then half percent, don't.
cool videos.
the problem with these videos.....is soon enough it leads me to watching videos like this one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vaZ4QYo7vg
and then it just proceeds from there.....
the problem with these videos.....is soon enough it leads me to watching videos like this one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vaZ4QYo7vg
and then it just proceeds from there.....
Originally Posted By: tig1
Cold starting is just one of many reasons to use a quality synthetic oil.
Yup. I'm glad I put in Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE. I've never seen the string of sub zero (F) days here. Minus 14F was the coldest start this year...
Cold starting is just one of many reasons to use a quality synthetic oil.
Yup. I'm glad I put in Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE. I've never seen the string of sub zero (F) days here. Minus 14F was the coldest start this year...
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