lower radiator hose- replace?

[joaks]

When the weather is cold, I start to leak coolant. This has happens every so often because the lower hose on the radiator becomes loose. I tightened it a few weeks ago but am wondering if I should replace it or if it just needs to be ridiculously tight. This is the type of clamp where tightening the bolt will tighten the clamp. The clamp itself is thoroughly covered in coolant residue so I do not have an idea of the condition of the metal itself. I tighten it robustly but have been concerned that if I put all of my strength into it I will cut into the hose (??).

Should I replace? Make it extremely tight?

One more stupid question- If I replace it, the hose should stay on the radiator, correct? I would do this on a completely cold car, of course. Just do not want a surprise bath.

 

[eljefino]

Pull the hose and smear RTV all inside where it mates to the block/ radiator.

Then get one of those OE clamps with the spring, to allow for thermal contraction.

 

[Oil Changer]

Plastic tanks on the radiator? Did you squeeze the clamps so tight you cracked it? If you're sure it's the hose then yea, fix it. Cheap and easy. Don't you have a drain on the radiator? If not, pull the hose at the lowest point. Have a big bucket ready. I would not use RTV.

 

[bullwinkle]

I've had a few worm type clamps that loosen themselves over time-a couple drops of blue Loctite into the screw threads/band area, tighten it up, seems to help. A bad hose should seep under pressure, even cold.

 

[Kira]

Hello, A 1997 car likely has original hoses. Hose replacement scheduling is a big, modern day mystery. They're made better today but do not last forever.

I'd replace both radiator hoses and look at the others (heater, by-pass etc.).
Clean all the nipples thoroughly. This will facilitate sealing and lets you inspect their condition.

Make certain you're using Subaru coolant. Wrong coolant will dissolve head gaskets on those cars. ira

 

[ronbo]

I read that the spring type hose clamps are better since they are always in tension and put on positive hold on the hose.
That said, I made mistakes in the past by replacing them with the worm type when I replaced hoses.

 

[tomcat27]

after many years of using screw clamps I have returned to using spring clamps. you could also try using two clamps if the space permits

 

[DBMaster]

This forum was the first place in which I have seen anything about needing to replace spring clamps when replacing hoses. Probably a good thing I wasn't on here when I replaced the 20+ year old radiator, heater, and bypass hoses on my 89 Accord. I reused almost all of the original spring clamps with no leaks afterward.

 

[kschachn]

I'm a fan of the spring clamps, they are OEM on my Toyotas and the Honda. Never a leak unlike the superior German engineering ones on my BMW. Having said that though, I found out a while back that the OEM clamps may not work with some aftermarket hoses. The aftermarket ones I once bought were ever so slightly thicker than the OEM and the spring clamp would not fit over the fitting "hump" on the engine.

 

[SHOZ]

Spring clamps tend to weaken with age. After 100k miles I had to replace them all on my Hyundai Accent as they were weep antifreeze.

 

[SHOZ]

On my 1997 Ford Taurus I changed the lower hose when it had 125k miles on it. Looked and felt great from the outside. On the inside it had quite a few cracks in the rubber.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Spring clamps tend to weaken with age. After 100k miles I had to replace them all on my Hyundai Accent as they were weep antifreeze.


They also rust, since they don't seem to make them from stainless steel, like they should.

 

[SHOZ]

My lower hose on the Gen Coupe weeped, I had worm clamps on it, went to a smooth banded worm gear and it still weeped. Next I need to try a T-bolt clamp.

 

[Lapham3]

Sometimes what may seem to be a lower radiator hose leak in cold weather is a slight rad side tank o-ring seep running down. I have had that in a couple vehicles and the loss is minimal with the fix coming with warmer weather.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Spring clamps tend to weaken with age. After 100k miles I had to replace them all on my Hyundai Accent as they were weep antifreeze.


They also rust, since they don't seem to make them from stainless steel, like they should.


Maybe they cant engineer the flex into SS without stress fractures? Who knows, right?

 

[SHOZ]

SS will loose it's temper with the heat cycles.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Originally Posted By: ronbo
I read that the spring type hose clamps are better since they are always in tension and put on positive hold on the hose.
That said, I made mistakes in the past by replacing them with the worm type when I replaced hoses.
There is a reason all manufacturers use the Mubea type constant tension hose clamps. Far superior to any screw clamp.

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Originally Posted By: ronbo
I read that the spring type hose clamps are better since they are always in tension and put on positive hold on the hose.
That said, I made mistakes in the past by replacing them with the worm type when I replaced hoses.
There is a reason all manufacturers use the Mubea type constant tension hose clamps. Far superior to any screw clamp.


One reason the use them is they come with a clip that holds the clamp open. Slip hose on pull out clip.

But they do Loose tension over the years.

 

[artificialist]

You can get stainless steel hose clamps at the boating supply stores. I would use those when installing a replacement hose.

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ
SS will loose it's temper with the heat cycles.

The temperature will never get warm enough to do that.