2012 Mazda 3 Skyactiv QSUD 0W/20 w/ ceratec

[Roble7]

Hey everyone, i caught the oil bug and decided to my first uoa on my car. I bought the mazda used with 40ish thousand miles and have been doing my oci every 5k miles. I stuck with a low oci because i was worried about the fuel dilution and shearing I've been reading about, but luckily everything seems to be ok. I'm currently sitting at 72k miles since this sample was taken and will definitely bump up my current oci to 6k and the next one up to 7k before i send my next sample in.

 

[147_Grain]

Excellent Report and Welcome to the Forum!

The boron and moly standout from the Cera Tec additive.

 

[The Critic]

I don't remmeber QSUD having that much Moly and Boron...it must be from the additive?

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
I don't remmeber QSUD having that much Moly and Boron...it must be from the additive?


Critic,
Right, it's gott'a be the Ceratec(Never heard of it)!

Roble7,
It's good that you did several short 5K oil change intervals(OCI's) as you didn't know the maintenance history of the car. I did the same(several 3K OCI's) with the Mazda3 in my signature when we bought it w/50K.

I would keep with any good brand name 0W20(M1, PP, QSUD, Edge, etc.) and eliminate the additive as they are not needed with today's oils whether they're dino or syn! And also considering that you have a new engine/technology!

 

[Boss302fan]

QSUD has really impressed me lately and it is priced lower then most other syns...

 

[timeau]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
it's gott'a be the Ceratec(Never heard of it)!

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produ...voiladb=web.nsf

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I would keep with any good brand name 0W20(M1, PP, QSUD, Edge, etc.) and eliminate the additive as they are not needed with today's oils whether they're dino or syn!

This question has been raised many times. In short words: aftermarket additives are same additives that manufactures add to their oil. Roughly speaking, ACEA A1/B1 oil becomes A3/B3. That's it, no magic.
The best illustration is Liqui Moly product line:
MoS2 Leichtlauf 10W-40:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produ...voiladb=web.nsf
The additive itself:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produ...voiladb=web.nsf

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
And also considering that you have a new engine/technology!

If you want to call "new" what was well known for last 50 years, you are fine ;-)

 

[Clevy]

So the engine is treated with cera-tec and the lab states wear metals are way below averages.


Lovin it,not that I place much stock is the whole wear metals idea,however it is interesting that they are significantly lower than average.

 

[Clevy]

And if the moly is coming from the cera-tec it's can't be mos2,it's gotta be a different kind of moly.
And boron too.
I've always liked the stuff and I'm using it in everything I own. Now that I'm seeing the side effects and the secondary increases in all that lovely moly and boron I like it even more.

 

[timeau]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
And if the moly is coming from the cera-tec it's can't be mos2,it's gotta be a different kind of moly.
And boron too.

MoS2 and Ceratec have different application. First is a simple additive. Second *should* produce a thin film on the top of a metal surface. May be I am explaining this on not too plain English, so I am not sure in the terminology. But metal protection should be provided even without oil. This is very useful in cold climate when oil could not reach bearings and other places after engine is started.
Ctratec *should* work after oil is drained for up to 30k miles. At least that what is advertised.

BTW, no offence anybody, but many US customers have no idea about really advanced engine oils. I mean Xenum, Bardahl, etc. Even Liqui Moly is in a shade.
http://www.xenum.be/en/start.asp?c=3&l=en

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: timeau
Originally Posted By: Clevy
And if the moly is coming from the cera-tec it's can't be mos2,it's gotta be a different kind of moly.
And boron too.

MoS2 and Ceratec have different application. First is a simple additive. Second *should* produce a thin film on the top of a metal surface. May be I am explaining this on not too plain English, so I am not sure in the terminology. But metal protection should be provided even without oil. This is very useful in cold climate when oil could not reach bearings and other places after engine is started.
Ctratec *should* work after oil is drained for up to 30k miles. At least that what is advertised.

BTW, no offence anybody, but many US customers have no idea about really advanced engine oils. I mean Xenum, Bardahl, etc. Even Liqui Moly is in a shade.
http://www.xenum.be/en/start.asp?c=3&l=en



I know what they are. Prior to using either I read every thread,post,article and word that could be found online,then I exchanged roughly 50 or so emails with liqui-moly themselves to learn what I could.
If an engine is allowing oil to be burned in the combustion chamber I would use neither additive due to deposit issues being very possible on ring langs however in an engine that are in good shape I've had nothing but positive experiences using both products
I love cera-tec though some are skeptical or have seen issues with using it. I personally haven't therefore it's in the oil of everything I own.

 

[badtlc]

ceratec must be thick stuff.

 

[Roble7]

Thank you for the warm welcome. I just wanted to clear up that i did use the Liqui-Moly additive that is linked above and that i have been using whichever quality synthetic i can find on sale. After the QSUD run i did two runs of Mobil 1 AFE and im now on my first run of two that i will run of Castrol edge extended performance. Now i just cant decide if i should stick with the QSUD or keep doing what im doing and use any quality oil i can find.

 

[Lex94]

Boron Nitride - An oil additive that might be useful!

Did you notice a smoother and quieter operation with this additive? Better fuel mileage?

 

[GMFan]

Welcome! Mazda **** heck of a job with their SkyActiv engines. Your engine looks fully broken in and wear metals look great.

Since you are no longer in warranty I agree with Blackstone's comment..try 7,000 miles next and get a TBN done.

Nothing wrong with QSUD. All of the 0w20 oils are excellent. Enjoy your car.

 

[DBMaster]

7,000? The factory OCI is 7,500. As I've mentioned in other threads, I have 20,000 on my current oil and just put on the third microGreen filter and will get UOA done at 30,000.

Honestly, anything less than 7,500 is tossing money in the trash. Whatever.

My car is a 2012 Mazda 3 w/Skyactiv.

 

[Roble7]

My car does seem a little quieter now since the treatment but I'm honestly not sure If its due to the additive or because I've been using quality synthetic oil. The car was a rental before I purchased it so I'm sure it got whatever bulk oil the shop they took it had on hand.

Originally Posted By: DBMaster
7,000? The factory OCI is 7,500. As I've mentioned in other threads, I have 20,000 on my current oil and just put on the third microGreen filter and will get UOA done at 30,000.

Honestly, anything less than 7,500 is tossing money in the trash. Whatever.

My car is a 2012 Mazda 3 w/Skyactiv.

Whoa I don't think il ever go with that long of an oci. I enjoy changing my oil too much and don't want to risk anything going wrong inside my engine. I stuck with the severe service of 5000 miles since my commute to work consists of a decent amount of stop and go traffic and I didn't know the service history of my car.

 

[CrawfishTails]

Thanks Roble7!!! Ceratec does seem like a good idea. Liquimoly company has often been "suspected" of being a reputable company anyway. The fact that Ceratec has a lot of moly-boron is cool. .... It looks like Ceratec works with QSUD just fine.

And now, your 4 ppm iron in 5,000 miles is near the lowest iron I've ever seen. Usually they come in at 5 to 12 ppm from my memory.

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I would keep with any good brand name 0W20(M1, PP, QSUD, Edge, etc.) and eliminate the additive as they are not needed with today's oils whether they're dino or syn.
Originally Posted By: timeau

This question has been raised many times. In short words: aftermarket additives are same additives that manufactures add to their oil. ......


While I do think it is possible to improve an already-good synthetic, additives bought and thrown into oil aren't necessarily the "SAME" additive chemicals SOPUS, Mobil, etc. uses in their oils. For example, Castrol uses titanium-based chemicals, and SOPUS uses Infineum's trinuclear moly types. Here is the main point: We just don't always know what can be used on top of a good motor oil to improve it, since interference is possible. Tribologists have said you can generally add in Polymeric Esters for and get better wear numbers, and now this Ceratec+QSUD example shows it could be effective too. One of course hopes the Ceratec hasn't upset the deposit and foaming performance in negative ways though!

 

[CrawfishTails]

One possible thing to do with Ceratec is to add it to a synthetic oil that does NOT have any boron, moly, or titanium already. About the only oil that comes to mind for that would be German or Belgian Castrol 0w-30 or 0w-40, although they might be starting to put in a small amount of titanium currently. Those oils take a minimal approach to additives already, probably relying on more polymer approaches, so the Ceratec additives wouldn't have to compete as much.

 

[DBMaster]

Originally Posted By: Roble7
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
7,000? The factory OCI is 7,500. As I've mentioned in other threads, I have 20,000 on my current oil and just put on the third microGreen filter and will get UOA done at 30,000.

Honestly, anything less than 7,500 is tossing money in the trash. Whatever.

My car is a 2012 Mazda 3 w/Skyactiv.

Whoa I don't think il ever go with that long of an oci. I enjoy changing my oil too much and don't want to risk anything going wrong inside my engine. I stuck with the severe service of 5000 miles since my commute to work consists of a decent amount of stop and go traffic and I didn't know the service history of my car.


That's why I ended with "whatever." I should know better than to argue against excessive maintenance. All the cars I service go 10,000 miles between OC's and have for 20 years. Anything less IS a waste. Just because we CAN waste doesn't mean we SHOULD. Why not just change it as soon as it starts to turn brown "just to be sure?"

 

[Roble7]

Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Originally Posted By: Roble7
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
7,000? The factory OCI is 7,500. As I've mentioned in other threads, I have 20,000 on my current oil and just put on the third microGreen filter and will get UOA done at 30,000.

Honestly, anything less than 7,500 is tossing money in the trash. Whatever.

My car is a 2012 Mazda 3 w/Skyactiv.

Whoa I don't think il ever go with that long of an oci. I enjoy changing my oil too much and don't want to risk anything going wrong inside my engine. I stuck with the severe service of 5000 miles since my commute to work consists of a decent amount of stop and go traffic and I didn't know the service history of my car.


That's why I ended with "whatever." I should know better than to argue against excessive maintenance. All the cars I service go 10,000 miles between OC's and have for 20 years. Anything less IS a waste. Just because we CAN waste doesn't mean we SHOULD. Why not just change it as soon as it starts to turn brown "just to be sure?"

Sorry if I offended you in anyway that really wasn't my intention. All I meant by my comment was that I personally wouldn't feel comfortable with running 20,000 oci. Well at least not atm. I do however agree with you that it felt wasteful to run the synthetic oil for only 5000 miles but I figured a little extra cleaning wouldn't hurt anything while I waited for the results of my first uoa to come back. My goal has always been to maintain a decent 10k mile oci but when I started reading about the fuel dilution and shearing issues i decided to do a few uoa's first to make sure everything was ok.