2014 Harley Davidson 103B - 999mi - FF (HD 360 20w50)
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My guess would be to have a strong basis/baseline to closely monitor the life of the scoot.
He is probably wanting to keep this ride until one of them dies.
I sure would love to have an HD one day, maybe in 5-10 years, a used one of course, maybe a Softtail Heritage, Road King, Dyna or even possibly a FatBoy.
Hey Robert, does twin cam mean it doesnt use pushrods anymore?
He is probably wanting to keep this ride until one of them dies.
I sure would love to have an HD one day, maybe in 5-10 years, a used one of course, maybe a Softtail Heritage, Road King, Dyna or even possibly a FatBoy.
Hey Robert, does twin cam mean it doesnt use pushrods anymore?
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
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Hey Robert, does twin cam mean it doesnt use pushrods anymore?
It has pushrods.
I assume they call it a twin cam because the original EVO that came before it had one cam as I understand it. I'm foggy on that whole piece since Sportsters are also called EVOs and they have 4 cams (they also have pushrods). Twin cams have a cam for each cylinder, Sportsters one for each for each valve.
The "B" is balanced, only softail big twins have a balance shaft at least presently.
I find it interesting how the wear metals might track and how long it might take to get closer to universal averages. If one could draw any conclusion from a single series of $25.00 UOAs one might suspect that the majority of the break in wear was in the first 500 miles. I almost wish I had taken a sample at 100 or 200.
I do plan to keep it a while.
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Hey Robert, does twin cam mean it doesnt use pushrods anymore?
It has pushrods.
I assume they call it a twin cam because the original EVO that came before it had one cam as I understand it. I'm foggy on that whole piece since Sportsters are also called EVOs and they have 4 cams (they also have pushrods). Twin cams have a cam for each cylinder, Sportsters one for each for each valve.
The "B" is balanced, only softail big twins have a balance shaft at least presently.
I find it interesting how the wear metals might track and how long it might take to get closer to universal averages. If one could draw any conclusion from a single series of $25.00 UOAs one might suspect that the majority of the break in wear was in the first 500 miles. I almost wish I had taken a sample at 100 or 200.
I do plan to keep it a while.
Looks pretty darn good, in rough numbers, Iron and Copper are down by over 70% from the first 500 miles and honestly the engine is still breaking in.
I have about 1,300 miles on my current oil so far. I changed it at 1000 miles on my new 14 RK, so all told Im at around 2,300 miles on the bike.
Plan on changing it in the spring, Most likely will be close to 2000 miles on the oil when I do, 3000 on the bike.
Im going to do a UOA on it. When I changed at the 1000 mile mark I used the conventional HD 360 20/50 and most likely will use it again, until otherwise proven I should try something else, which if I did, would be either conventional Valvoline 20/50 4 stroke or conventional Valvoline VR1 but again, for now sticking with the HD.
I have about 1,300 miles on my current oil so far. I changed it at 1000 miles on my new 14 RK, so all told Im at around 2,300 miles on the bike.
Plan on changing it in the spring, Most likely will be close to 2000 miles on the oil when I do, 3000 on the bike.
Im going to do a UOA on it. When I changed at the 1000 mile mark I used the conventional HD 360 20/50 and most likely will use it again, until otherwise proven I should try something else, which if I did, would be either conventional Valvoline 20/50 4 stroke or conventional Valvoline VR1 but again, for now sticking with the HD.
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