When to use or not use anti-seize lubricant?

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I'm a big believer in using anti-seize lubricants like Permatex (http://www.permatex.com/products-2/produ...ubricant-detail) on sparkplugs. I've also heard good things about "LOCTITE Silver" (http://www.henkelna.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797898047489).

Recently, I've heard someone say they use anti-seize lubricant on their lug nuts, which sounds like a smart idea to me. I guess I'd just worry about the lubricant loosening the nuts, but maybe that's nothing to worry about?

I'd be curious what your thoughts are as to what situations to use or not use anti-seize lubricants? Do you have a favorite brand?

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Thank you,
Ed
 
I used them on lugnuts but discount the torquing by 15% (due to improved lubricity).

I also used them on wheel/hub contact surfaces to keep the rust at bay.

I don't use them on spark plug threads at all (if ever). Never saw the need on the fleet of vehicles I maintain.

Q.
 
Anti seize on lug nuts has been a big topic here...

But I am of the opinion that you follow the owners manual/FSM. Lug nuts torqued clean and dry, no oil or grease. Part of anti seize is oil.

Since I live in a salt area, I hit the lug bolts (or studs) with zinc galvanizing primer. When it dries, they're clean, and dry, and don't rust/seize.

No chance of loosening due to lubrication, and the torque setting is accurate.
 
Putting Anti seize on a properly torqued bolt will not cause it to become loose...

You can lower the spec by 15% but usually the specs given by OEMS are conservative for the stud so torquing your studs with antisize to what ever the OE spec is is most likely fine. YMMV
 
My neighbor used anti seize on his lugnuts, he had to get car towed, all lug nuts loosened and made a terrible racket!

I was always told not to lubricate lug nuts, but use wire brush to clean them. Also there is danger of over torquing them when lubricated, which could cause lugs to break.
 
I have used anti seize for years, properly torqued stuff doesn't come loose.
 
I don't use them on spark plugs, figure the plugs come with a plating anyway that does the job.

I do use it on 02 sensors, it's usually gooped on the bosch ones from the factory anyway.

I'll use it on a "trouble" lug stud, one that goes crrrriiiiccckkk when loosening and where the nut needs "some" help spinning off. This is typcially a 15 year old rust belt car. I figure the lug is going to snap the next time if I don't, and that rusty stud plus antisieze is still going to have less clamping force at 100 ft lbs than virgin stud at the factory. But to each his own!
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
I used them on lugnuts but discount the torquing by 15% (due to improved lubricity).

I also used them on wheel/hub contact surfaces to keep the rust at bay.

I don't use them on spark plug threads at all (if ever). Never saw the need on the fleet of vehicles I maintain.

Q.
Plugs weren't good for 90K in the past.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Plugs weren't good for 90K in the past.


I formed a habit of pulling them out every 2~3yrs to inspect, wirebrush the threads before re-installation (properly torquing them to spec.)

Not a single failure for all types of spark plugs (incl. iridiums) for 26yrs+

Q.
 
I have always lubed lug nuts and studs. Only time I had a wheel come lose was when I *didn't* and got a false torque reading. Even with cleaned threads. In the case of most cars, it's the taper between the wheel and the lugnut that keeps it tight. Lubing the threads, or even the surface of the taper will have not affect the wheel in any way.

I use the stuff on ANYTHING with a thread that is going to have to come out sometime ... with the exeption of drain plugs, rotor surfaces or something that has it's own specific lube (brake caliper slider pins)
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I have always lubed lug nuts and studs. Only time I had a wheel come lose was when I *didn't* and got a false torque reading. Even with cleaned threads. In the case of most cars, it's the taper between the wheel and the lugnut that keeps it tight. Lubing the threads, or even the surface of the taper will have not affect the wheel in any way.

I use the stuff on ANYTHING with a thread that is going to have to come out sometime ... with the exeption of drain plugs, rotor surfaces or something that has it's own specific lube (brake caliper slider pins)
I do as you do. As others, I derate wheel lug torque by 15% when lubricated.
 
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Hello,
I think some anti-seize products aren't good where they're likely to bake. Spark plugs come to mind but I must confess to using it when the first spark plug change on my Volvo 5 cylinder engine produced screeching as each plug was unscrewed. I have oil at the ready now when I change plugs and will go "back 'n forth" with the socket wrench.

But put me down for lug use. Too many screeching lug nuts and bolts have come down the pike.
If anyone uses a keyed (specially contoured lug head) anti-theft lug I'd urge them to apply some anti-seize.
There are ENDLESS stories of frozen solid anti-theft hardware on the Volvo board I read.

It's not meant for brake glide pins anyway. Kira
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I don't use them on spark plugs, figure the plugs come with a plating anyway that does the job.

I do use it on 02 sensors, it's usually gooped on the bosch ones from the factory anyway.

I'll use it on a "trouble" lug stud, one that goes crrrriiiiccckkk when loosening and where the nut needs "some" help spinning off. This is typcially a 15 year old rust belt car. I figure the lug is going to snap the next time if I don't, and that rusty stud plus antisieze is still going to have less clamping force at 100 ft lbs than virgin stud at the factory. But to each his own!
O2 sensors live in the same environment as spark plugs, and NTK and other sensors come with a packet of copper antiseize.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
O2 sensors live in the same environment as spark plugs, and NTK and other sensors come with a packet of copper antiseize.


Not really. O2 sensors live downstream inside exhaust stream, which, temperature-wise, it's much, much higher than that of the typical water-jacketed cylinder head/block environment.

Because of that, original/replacement O2 sensor threads typically came with anti-seize.

Q.

p.s. when I started my mech work 2+ decades ago, my investigation told me that most of the spark plug seizures in alu heads are due to (a) improper torquing; and (b) dirt/debris accumulated on the plug thread, esp. the lower 1/4" portion (close to the electrodes). By (a) properly torquing them dry and rigidly following factory torque specs; and (b) brush the lower portion of the plug threads clean, and (c) regardless of mileage/years, take them out every 2~3 yrs to clean the threads and retorque them back into the heads...

No seizures shall happen.
 
Oh and BTW: for those who experienced excessive accumulation in the head's spark plug threads (esp. the lower 1/3" portion closest to the combustion chamber), you should always consider running a spark plug chaser once or twice to clean them...

Of course, the side-effect is that these debris will fall into your combustion chamber.

Q.
 
Pop the compressor air line in the intake with the valve open, then it comes out the hole
wink.gif


Anti-seize on all wheel nut threads, always, they don't come loose unless you got the torque wrong...
 
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
My neighbor used anti seize on his lugnuts, he had to get car towed, all lug nuts loosened and made a terrible racket!

Your neighbor is looking for an excuse for his negligence.

I've used anti-seize on lug nuts for 35 years and over 3/4 million miles on over a dozen vehicles with never any problem. My extended family has used anti-seize on lug nuts since there were automobiles in the USA and collectively many millions of miles and never lost a wheel or "made a terrible racket" or any other problem.

Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
I was always told not to lubricate lug nuts, but use wire brush to clean them. Also there is danger of over torquing them when lubricated, which could cause lugs to break.

There is a danger of overdoing anything, that's what common sense and torque wrenches were made for.
 
I'll use a dab of oil-grease on wheel studs to keep the rust away, and do use a smidge of anti-seize when doing plugs with the aluminum heads.
 
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