Fastener setup for sheetmetal and wood

[JHZR2]

I'm planning to mount a bench grinder and a few other things to the tool chest I just got for a steal at HD. The unit has a sheet metal top (20 or 22 ga?) and then a 3/4" bamboo top on top of the metal.

It is my desire to drill through the wood and metal, and make holes to attach fasteners. Should be straight forward. Question is what type of fastener?

I figure just a hex bolt with a washer, then just tighten down the item with a nut on the top side?

So it would be from bottom to top hex bolt, washer, sheetmetal, wood, item, nut.

Is a hex bolt the best bet? is there a good rule of thumb for diameter of the washer?

Thanks!

 

[Recalculating]

Sounds like a plan. I would do the same other than

.....wood, item, washer, lock-washer nut.

 

[spasm3]

I have a bench grinder stand, separate from my tool cabinet. Space may be an issue, but if you grind metal , its going all over your cabinet and in a moist environment could rust it in places.

Mine is similar to this stand.

 

[Lapham3]

I'd probably also back-up the bottom side of the sheetmetal with a thicker piece and have that thin sheet metal sandwiched-good luck

 

[JHZR2]

All makes sense. I'll see about cutting a niece of sheetmetal backer and drilling it for the sandwich. Thanks!

 

[Pop_Rivit]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
I have a bench grinder stand, separate from my tool cabinet. Space may be an issue, but if you grind metal , its going all over your cabinet and in a moist environment could rust it in places.


Agreed. In addition the grinder will vibrate the daylights out of the tools in your tool chest, and the vibration could crack the sheet metal around the holes you drill in the top. And if your tool chest is on wheels it could be a challenge to keep it locked in place while you're working at the grinder.

You'd be better served to invest in a grinder stand.

 

[JHZR2]

Good point.

The grinder I have was from my grandfather's shop, and he had it mounted to a wood double desk, and it didn't have any issues, but it wasn't a chest.

The thought for on a chest came from here: http://www.bobvila.com/articles/2124-the-bench-grinder/#.VM4nWkc8KrU

I expect to use it for light sharpening and buffing/cleaning. I don't think I'll be grinding welds or anything. Any work where a lot of shards would come off Id probably restrict in a vice and do outside with my angle grinder. But I'm just speculating since I haven't used these tools before.

I had hesitated with a stand because of the reality of little kids in my home for the next 10-15 years (even though my shop is in a separate space in my basement partitioned by a door, heavy, tippy things still concern me). But I suppose that stand would be good to hot swap my drill press too. I'll have to look into it.

Thanks!

 

[Pop_Rivit]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Good point.

I had hesitated with a stand because of the reality of little kids in my home for the next 10-15 years (even though my shop is in a separate space in my basement partitioned by a door, heavy, tippy things still concern me). But I suppose that stand would be good to hot swap my drill press too. I'll have to look into it.

Thanks!


Most stands have holes drilled in the legs so they can be bolted to the floor. Especially if you're going to use it with a drill press you'd want it stabilized and secured. On occasion the bit will grab and there is the potential for the stand and press to topple.

At the very least there should be some sort of strapping to the wall to keep it secured.

 

[JHZR2]

Yeah that led me to the next consideration. Basement floors are likely not poured as deep as an industrial setting, since the loading is likely much different. So can I even mount such a stand to a basement floor?

I think my floor is around 2-3" thick, poured

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Yeah that led me to the next consideration. Basement floors are likely not poured as deep as an industrial setting, since the loading is likely much different. So can I even mount such a stand to a basement floor?

I think my floor is around 2-3" thick, poured


Mine is not bolted down, but my son is now 22. With small children its a good idea. If you don't want to bolt it to concrete, how about to a piece of plywood with recessed bolts on the bottom. That way you can move it but it should not tip over.

I'm about to purchase a larger stationary air compressor for the garage. I think i'm going to leave it bolted to the pallet, or build a stronger pallet rather than bolt to the floor.