Bending painted sheetmetal

[JHZR2]

I got a killer deal in a slightly damaged tool chest workbench at Home Depot. I think they must have been leading old stock from a warehouse because there were a few items with Black Friday sale markings on them.

Anyway,mit was so cheap I had to pick it up. 52", 10 drawer locking chest with a bamboo top.

The issue? One corner is bent. Not so bent that the wheel is off the ground, but bent enough that there is noticeable misalignment in the metal on the bottom. I can't get the unit to tilt side to side like you would on an item where one leg is shorter than the other three.

So, should I try to bend it back, or will that cause more issues than it helps?

If I try,mwhats the best way? I was thinking a piece of wood, hit with a BFH? Or should I just smack with a rubber mallet?

Thanks!

 

[mulehead]

Take a picture you can bend any thing mad out sheet metal back it's how you do it . You could may be lay it on its back and pull it out

 

[JHZR2]

Well I'm not sure there is a good way to pull it out,mat least not without putting a hole in the metal, or using a lever device on the wheel (which is where the unit is bent - on a corner) which would scratch it up.

Hitting it into position would be best, question is what technique is best?

 

[spasm3]

Can you post a pic?

 

[JHZR2]

Tomorrow

 

[Recalculating]

I ran into a similar deal on a Craftsman rolling chest. A top corner and same side lower was damaged. The top tray handle had to be taken apart, straightened and reset. Nearly $600 chest for less than $40.

The sheet metal was squared to the framing with a 2x4 and the BFH. Suggest taking the trays out if you have to tip it especially upside down. I at first left mine in and the locking mechanism biting into the back of each tray locked causing a frustrating delay in the program whereas the BFH threatened to add more deformity.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Tomorrow


Reason i ask is if it is appearance only, and does not affect drawers or anything else, it might be best left alone.
Or you could make sheet metal corner and tack weld it on, paint it black and simply cover it. ( might look worse if you can't match paint though).

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Recalculating
I ran into a similar deal on a Craftsman rolling chest. A top corner and same side lower was damaged. The top tray handle had to be taken apart, straightened and reset. Nearly $600 chest for less than $40.

The sheet metal was squared to the framing with a 2x4 and the BFH. Suggest taking the trays out if you have to tip it especially upside down. I at first left mine in and the locking mechanism biting into the back of each tray locked causing a frustrating delay in the program whereas the BFH threatened to add more deformity.


Yeah, I got a super deal and the damage is on the bottom which is why I jumped on it.

A BFH adding more deformity/doing more harm than good is my concern...

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Tomorrow


Reason i ask is if it is appearance only, and does not affect drawers or anything else, it might be best left alone.
Or you could make sheet metal corner and tack weld it on, paint it black and simply cover it. ( might look worse if you can't match paint though).


Exactly right... Thats why Im interested in opinions, since when it is sitting, it does seem to not tip or tilt on the basement floor. So might be much ado about nothing... But opinions are always helpful...

Here are some pictures I took from the floor. One thing Ill say is that when unloaded, like on its side as opposed to on the wheels, the gap between the metal and the caster is much greater... So the bend seems to be naturally releived slightly just due to the cabinet's mass...

I may be concerned about nothing... I dont anticipate loading this down too heavy, and I also dont anticipate rolling it around much if at all. I will probably put some heavier tools in the bottom drawers though...

Thanks!

 

[mulehead]

Lay on its back and take the wheel off and use the bolt holes to pull it out

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: mulehead
Lay on its back and take the wheel off and use the bolt holes to pull it out


Thats a good idea, a 2x4 with holes in it, and use that with bolts to pull it back out a bit. Its really not bad though. Just don't pull holes through the metal. It might take a piece of wood and a bfh to straighten the rib out though.

 

[mulehead]

If you get it under tension you might hit it lightly for the inside.

 

[doitmyself]

If the above excellent ideas don't work, just leave it and install shims between the castor and cabinet bottom to make the wheels sit equal on the floor.

Fender washers might work.

 

[JHZR2]

I hammered the "bottom flat with the wheel removed. I left it at that. There is a metal lip around he bottom that has some dents/bends, which I may try to fix with a metal brake.

Good enough. It sits flat and well. Thanks!