Was Fram ever really that bad?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Originally Posted By: CrawfishTails
Why would they put so much efficiency in their lowest cost part of the line?


Fram seems most interested in a filter that well, filters.

Most of the Fram bashing you'll find is regurgitated by people who couldn't explain to you what an ADBV or bypass valve does on an oil filter. They just know "Fram, cardboard, bad!" 'cause somebody told them so. Wix did a wonderful marketing job promoting this mindset as well.

I do think typical Fram quality is higher today than 15 years ago, but I used them almost exclusively for decades without the slightest issue.

For the record I mostly use Wix made filters the last couple of years, I have gotten hung up on the value and performance of the 3 buck Napa Silvers in particular. My favorite Fram is the Tough Guard but I seldom run OCI's long enough to justify it's purchase anymore.

Some of us read the "Minimopar oil filter study" by a EE.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: CrawfishTails
I've noticed that Fram uses high-efficiency media in even their lowest cost oil filters, the orange can ones. Its better media at 95% down to 20 microns than all the 100% paper media you see in the bargain brands. Why would they put so much efficiency in their lowest cost part of the line?

As for their construction quality control and design, I think they have improved that compared to around 10 years ago.


That efficiency rating if you read the fine print is for the huge FL-1A and not necessarily across the whole line.

In the late 90's when the internet was turning into "a thing" I tripped over the "minimopar filter cutup" (link) and they hated on the Fram cardboard.

Anecdotally, though, I found some Frams at yard sales. (Four for 25 cents!) Fitted them and they worked fine. Back a couple year ago Advance Auto had a sale that would stack with coupons so I got a bunch more that didn't fail. And purolators started falling apart. I worked at a tire/parts store that pulled Frams when Chinese Prontos weren't available. They still aren't my first choice but I have no hate.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino

That efficiency rating if you read the fine print is for the huge FL-1A and not necessarily across the whole line.


You have no evidence of that. Fram uses that same paper and glass fiber media in their lowly orange can oil filters, and the efficiency is largely a function of the filter media used.
Frams website claims: " FRAM Group testing of average filter efficiency of PH8A, 3387A, and 4967 or equivalent FRAM TG or XG models under ISO 4548-12 for particles greater than 20 microns "
Looks like they include several anyway. You could claim they are lying I guess.
 
I recently cut open an OCOD, and I couldn't force the fiber end caps off the media. Couldn't physically cause harm to the media, either. The ADBV was completely worthless, however. It stayed in whatever shape I pushed it into. Was leaking oil like a sieve from the moment I separated it from the block. Drained out almost entirely when turned over. Total and complete [censored].
 
We now use wix but in the past for over 20 years it was group 7 we changed that after all the tears started showing up in the purolater which is the company that builds group 7.

After we stopped using group 7 we tried a few others and decided on wix. We use jobber filters but we still have some motorcrafts (also purolater) for the fords and some mopar for the Chrysler/Dodge engines as the finishing touch again made by purolater...lol
We go for flow more than anything else.
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
the orange can is junk cut one open and see for yourself. Its a no Brainer


Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I recently cut open an OCOD, and I couldn't force the fiber end caps off the media. Couldn't physically cause harm to the media, either. The ADBV was completely worthless, however. It stayed in whatever shape I pushed it into. Was leaking oil like a sieve from the moment I separated it from the block. Drained out almost entirely when turned over. Total and complete [censored].


+1. A filter worthy of the name OCOD. OP even if someone didn't care about cardboard endcaps, lack of media, thin cans and insufficient ADBVs, there are better filters out there for less coin. But take the info you get here at face value. Try some Frams, run them for short OCIs and then cut them open and form your own opinion!
49.gif
48.gif
 
The cost of "Sooper Bowl" ads and the like come out of what goes into the filter, or raises the price point. He who runs the most expensive ads often gives the least in product quality.
 
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
the orange can is junk cut one open and see for yourself. Its a no Brainer


Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I recently cut open an OCOD, and I couldn't force the fiber end caps off the media. Couldn't physically cause harm to the media, either. The ADBV was completely worthless, however. It stayed in whatever shape I pushed it into. Was leaking oil like a sieve from the moment I separated it from the block. Drained out almost entirely when turned over. Total and complete [censored].


+1. A filter worthy of the name OCOD. OP even if someone didn't care about cardboard endcaps, lack of media, thin cans and insufficient ADBVs, there are better filters out there for less coin. But take the info you get here at face value. Try some Frams, run them for short OCIs and then cut them open and form your own opinion!
49.gif
48.gif

Interesting topic. I've run Bosch, Toyota, and Puro Pure Ones on my Camry I4s (filter at about 40 degrees) and none have stayed full very long. By the time the engine cools enough to do an oil change the filters are almost empty. On the other hand my SAABS had the filters mounted upside down and they were always fill, of course. If stopping drainback were that important, wouldn't everybody do it? Ferrari used two red filters mounted to the top front of their classic V 12s, at 90 degrees, endplate down. Go figure.
 
A filter near or completely inverted is going to drain back from the center tube a considerable amount of its oil. Drain back is not an apocalypse for an engine, but it's better it didn't.
 
Don't all oil filters leak once they are taken off an engine?

My oil catching pan has a spot to sit the filter so the oil can drain out.
 
> Don't all oil filters leak once they are taken off an engine?

No, I have to use a poke tool to wedge open the ADBV to get the last 4-6 ounces or so out.
 
Originally Posted By: spackard
> Don't all oil filters leak once they are taken off an engine?

No, I have to use a poke tool to wedge open the ADBV to get the last 4-6 ounces or so out.


Sounds to me like some oil drains out then?
 
I have run Fram Orange Cans up to 8000 miles, and Tough Guards to 10,000.

Never any issues.

The OCOD is a little overpriced, but not by much. The Tough Guard is priced about right IMHO.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Don't all oil filters leak once they are taken off an engine?

My oil catching pan has a spot to sit the filter so the oil can drain out.


Not all. The last puro synthetic I pulled still had about 1/3 of a quart left in it! Most of the time I punch a hole in the top to drain them before cutting.
 
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
the orange can is junk cut one open and see for yourself. Its a no Brainer


Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I recently cut open an OCOD, and I couldn't force the fiber end caps off the media. Couldn't physically cause harm to the media, either. The ADBV was completely worthless, however. It stayed in whatever shape I pushed it into. Was leaking oil like a sieve from the moment I separated it from the block. Drained out almost entirely when turned over. Total and complete [censored].


Because cutting open a filter will really tell you how much contamination the high efficiency media traps? I am sure a lower efficiency filter will "look" good with all that cheap paper media since it didn't trap anything meaningful.

+1. A filter worthy of the name OCOD. OP even if someone didn't care about cardboard endcaps, lack of media, thin cans and insufficient ADBVs, there are better filters out there for less coin. But take the info you get here at face value. Try some Frams, run them for short OCIs and then cut them open and form your own opinion!
49.gif
48.gif
 
When I used to work at an express lube, after I removed the filter I would place it on the drain pan screen at about a 45 degree angle with the base plate racing down. It didn't matter what brand it was, oil was coming out of that filter. It only took a few minutes for it to stop draining, then I would toss it in a bucket to go to the filter crusher and whatever oil was left would be collected there.

Some did drain faster than others. The e-cores would usually drain the fastest.
 
I have used the Orange can off and on for over 40 years with never a problem
It does its job which is to filter
I don't care what it looks like after its been used for thousands of miles
I never lost an engine
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

paulri
Fram PH4967, 7988 miles C&P
2
Replies
37
Views
2K
paulri
dnewton3
Fram XG9972 and CH9972 oil filters contrasted
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
Bellavita
S
FRAM XG6607 CUT OPEN! HPL No VII oil used with it
Replies
18
Views
3K
Slow Car Sport Mode
gregk24
  • Locked
Fram Ultra poor construction
2 3
Replies
41
Views
9K
M56959
garageman402
Is Dexcool Really That Bad?
2
Replies
28
Views
5K
Plawan
Back
Top