Just bought a 2005 Yukon advice?

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Just got a 2005 GMC Yukon XL SLT (5.3L Vortec). It was a one owner car in like new condition, and has fantastic maintenance records, the previous owner really loved it.

It has had Brakes, Shocks, Transmission fluid changed, induction service, coolant changed all within the last 40k miles. I believe the gauge cluster was replaced as well, which these have issues with. The only problem is the fairly common pegged oil pressure gauge @ 80PSI. So im going to change the pressure sender (i did check it is bad) soon, anything else to look for? I know of most of the common issues anyone got any other advice?
 
Congrats on the new truck. That is a great platform.
Actual owners might know more than me, but I have done a few instrument clusters as you have already had done, but ABS motors also seem to go bad a bit on the GMT 800 trucks. I have done two for friends and I have heard of others going bad. People who bleed brakes prior to the fluid getting dark seem to stave off this repair.
Overall, those trucks are rock solid.
 
Originally Posted By: JBinTX30
Just got a 2005 GMC Yukon XL SLT (5.3L Vortec). It was a one owner car in like new condition, and has fantastic maintenance records, the previous owner really loved it.

It has had Brakes, Shocks, Transmission fluid changed, induction service, coolant changed all within the last 40k miles. I believe the gauge cluster was replaced as well, which these have issues with. The only problem is the fairly common pegged oil pressure gauge @ 80PSI. So im going to change the pressure sender (i did check it is bad) soon, anything else to look for? I know of most of the common issues anyone got any other advice?



I have an '04 with same configuration. It is a solid truck. I drove 6 yrs/ 93,000 miles on the original tires (firestones) There is an open recall on the middle rear safety belt - make sure that got done. Looking over my records, I have had to replace the rear wiper motor (twice), rear wiper switch, left front wheel hub bearing/assembly (twice), fight front hub bearing/assembly, replaced the EBCM, stability/traction control, front and rear a/c temp actuators, all wheel drive/traction control switch (which was why the "service 4wd" light kept coming on, the 3rd high brake lamp (one piece unit - no bulb access), intake manifold gaskets.

Normal wear and tear stuff (brakes, fluids, battery, tires, etc). Also had to change water pump and thermostat around 176k.

otherwise, I [censored] pleased with this. Also, if your seats or arm rest are worn out, go to the seat shop (www.seatshop.com) and buy replacement leather -well worth it.
 
That is a great truck.. How did you check the sender? Did you screw in a pressure gauge? Those engines are very solid and long lasting.
 
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Originally Posted By: DirkDiggler
I have an '04 with same configuration. It is a solid truck. I drove 6 yrs/ 93,000 miles on the original tires (firestones) There is an open recall on the middle rear safety belt - make sure that got done. Looking over my records, I have had to replace the rear wiper motor (twice), rear wiper switch, left front wheel hub bearing/assembly (twice), fight front hub bearing/assembly, replaced the EBCM, stability/traction control, front and rear a/c temp actuators, all wheel drive/traction control switch (which was why the "service 4wd" light kept coming on, the 3rd high brake lamp (one piece unit - no bulb access), intake manifold gaskets.

Also, if your seats or arm rest are worn out, go to the seat shop (www.seatshop.com) and buy replacement leather -well worth it.


The seats are near perfect as they can be for a 05 no rips tears or anything broken. Also I'll look into the middle seat belts. I believe the intake was done at the dealer before I'll double check though. And it doesn't have 4WD so I suppose I don't have to worry about those things.
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
That is a great truck.. How did you check the sender? Did you screw in a pressure gauge? Those engines are very solid and long lasting.


I just unplugged the connector the gauge dropped to zero, plug it back in it reads 80.
 
is it at 80 when the engine is off also and at 80 is the needle pegged?
The only way to test the sender is to hook up a mechanical gauge or replace it. I am asking if the needle is pegged because there could be a wire that is damaged in any case unless it is an engine issue it will be easy to fix
 
It is 0 when off, and only 80 once you turn the key ON position and Start.
 
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