Water Pump RTV

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Hey

I've lost the gasket for my replacement WP so I'm considering just using RTV. I've never omitted a WP gasket before so I must admit I am a little nervous. There is a lot of surface area available between the alloy pump and cast block though which does make me feel more confidant. What would be the best product to use, I have these three.

Permatex high temp Red
Three Bond 1104
Three Bond 1215
 
It should be no problem, just dry fit and test spin the pump to make sure the gasket isn't there for clearance as well as sealing.
I would use the Three Bond 1215 AKA Subabond which is AFAIK the same as Hondabond and the gray Permatex.
 
This is the best product I have ever used in your application:

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/produ...e-gasket-detail

I recently did the thermostat housing on my Chevelle, a very difficult area to seal and notorious leak spot (old rough aluminum manifold etc.). I did not use a gasket, just this Permatex. No leaks, I was very impressed. You must follow the instructions to the letter (they are easy just don't be impatient with the curing). This is a dedicated product for use in contact with water and glycol.
 
+1

Originally Posted By: marc1
This is the best product I have ever used in your application:

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/produ...e-gasket-detail

I recently did the thermostat housing on my Chevelle, a very difficult area to seal and notorious leak spot (old rough aluminum manifold etc.). I did not use a gasket, just this Permatex. No leaks, I was very impressed. You must follow the instructions to the letter (they are easy just don't be impatient with the curing). This is a dedicated product for use in contact with water and glycol.
 
Permatex Ultra Grey, about the best you can get at regular stores and works on anything. I love HondaBond and the other "botique" sealants but they are crazy expensive and hard to find.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
marc1 -- did you have to put that stuff on as a uniform bead, or can you spread it on with your finger?


I made a uniform flattened bead approximately 1/8" direct from the tube (no fingers) and I also went around the bolt holes. Then the key part... I tightened the housing barely finger tight only just enough to have the two mating surfaces lightly squeeze the bead and disperse evenly but not enough for the mating surfaces to hard contact. I then let it cure and set up, time depends on ambient temperature so judge this accordingly, then tightened the assembly to the correct torque (15ft/lbs.).
 
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