Engine lite was on but now it's off-cracked coil?

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this is a 2003 Ranger Edge, 6 cyl, 2wd, 3 ltr engine, 153,000 miles.

I bought it in 2009 (107,000 m), and am glad to say it's running better now than when I bought it

for the first time, the engine light came on the other day; I freaked out but had it scanned and P0303 came up. ok, so I took it to a mechanic, they said it was a cracked coil. mind you, no problems whatsoever with starting, running, nothing.

I couldn't afford to get it fixed just then, was planning to do it next week but after they gave it back to me, the light has gone off, and hasn't come back on again.

I read that sometimes just knocking the dirt of the connectors could clear the light - I immediately asked about it and the service center seemed as surprised as I was about the light going off - they were also trying to talk me into getting the spark plug wires replaced and a tune-up done - which is totally bogus because, like I said, it purrs like a kitten and always starts up.

so now the light is off, should I just not worry, or go ahead and get the coil changed? am definitely not getting the spark plugs changed (yet).
 
Don't know if it will do it but, you could start the motor at night in the dark and see if you see it arcing. You might be able to smear some RTV over the crack to keep the moisture out. Might buy you some time, maybe not, but it's cheaper then a coil pack.,,
 
rockauto or amazon for parts.

or AAP with coupon code (locally for me)

is usually my goto for half price parts.
 
Coil failures can be intermittent. My son's truck was throwing a CEL off and on most of last semester and when we got it home a scan showed multiple misfire faults were stored for two cylinders. With over 10 years and 158k on the sled I decided to replace all six coils. Problem solved...
 
3.0 Vulcan V6?

Go out at night with a windex spray bottle and open the hood with it running, see any arcing? Spray some water on coil/plugs/wires, see/hear arcing or a rough idle?

Look at the coil, most likely cracked.

Quick Tips: #23 Ford Ignition Coil Pack Heat Failures & Misfires When Wet: http://youtu.be/5Vcojw0DL3A

Reference this video

OEM Motorcraft coil on RockAuto is $60, and a very DIYable fix.

If the trucks on all OEM plugs, wires, and coil, a refresh isn't uncalled for.

I suggest all Motorcraft, and RockAuto is very well priced.

Could also use FORScan to scan codes yourself.
 
this is interesting what you said about "misfiring when wet" because after the mechanic had finished the analysis and I started the engine to leave, it was running rough - which it had never, ever done before.

I immediately returned inside and asked why? the mechanic came out and said he'd sprayed some water on it to check - and would dry it out for me, which they did, and when they brought it back again, it was running normal.

it's never run rough in any kind of weather at all - that's the first time ever -

but you are saying I should go ahead and replace the coil? even tho the light is off now?
 
Originally Posted By: MCompact
Coil failures can be intermittent. My son's truck was throwing a CEL off and on most of last semester and when we got it home a scan showed multiple misfire faults were stored for two cylinders. With over 10 years and 158k on the sled I decided to replace all six coils. Problem solved...



6 coils? what 6? I thought there was just 1?
cry.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Bluebonnet



6 coils? what 6? I thought there was just 1?
cry.gif



For trucks that used COP design there is one per cylinder.

your truck is one coilpack.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluebonnet

but you are saying I should go ahead and replace the coil? even tho the light is off now?



Yes. The light will come back.

The coil pack (usually) won't leave you stranded, but you don't want the truck misfiring and not running as well as it could be.

A new coil pack will probably be $100 or less on Rock Auto or most any parts store. It's simple to replace.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl


Yes. The light will come back.

The coil pack (usually) won't leave you stranded, but you don't want the truck misfiring and not running as well as it could be.

A new coil pack will probably be $100 or less on Rock Auto or most any parts store. It's simple to replace.


yes, I just watched the video that michaelluscher posted in this thread - wow, it doesn't look nearly as difficult as the hard drive I just replaced in my iMac LOL

but browsing online for a replacement - what's a good brand to buy?
 
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
3.0 Vulcan V6?


Look at the coil, most likely cracked.



OEM Motorcraft coil on RockAuto is $60, and a very DIYable fix.

If the trucks on all OEM plugs, wires, and coil, a refresh isn't uncalled for.

I suggest all Motorcraft, and RockAuto is very well priced.



This!

The only thing I would suggest different is to get Autolite double platinums instead of the Motorcraft, as the new MC plugs are single platinums. (Should be APP104's but be sure to double check)
 
Originally Posted By: 1kickbuttranger
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
3.0 Vulcan V6?


Look at the coil, most likely cracked.



OEM Motorcraft coil on RockAuto is $60, and a very DIYable fix.

If the trucks on all OEM plugs, wires, and coil, a refresh isn't uncalled for.

I suggest all Motorcraft, and RockAuto is very well priced.



This!

The only thing I would suggest different is to get Autolite double platinums instead of the Motorcraft, as the new MC plugs are single platinums. (Should be APP104's but be sure to double check)


Even though its a waste spark, ordinary well priced MC SP-432's make it 40k~ and still have time left, so why not OEM.

I learned the hard way with my Taurus, MC coil, MC wires, MC plugs, still chasing a rough idle, but its gone further on a gallon of gas post tune up then it ever has in its life.

To OP, $120 on RockAuto gets you a OEM coil, wires, and double platinum plugs.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Bluebonnet


but browsing online for a replacement - what's a good brand to buy?



Denso or Motorcraft is best, but even the parts store ones are fine. The BWD I got from Advance was made in the USA.

If the plugs have never been done, I would replace those. The wires may be fine, but check them for cracks.
 
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher


Even though its a waste spark, ordinary well priced MC SP-432's make it 40k~ and still have time left, so why not OEM.




The original AGSF32PPM doubles and APP104's should go about 90K-100K no issues.

The gaps will be opened pretty good after about 60K or so on the drivers bank and should be regapped.

The SP 432's do have the nickel ground electrode that I think is V shaped and should be adequate for dual firing, where the others are square cut but have the platinum pad. Although, not sure how long the pad stays on there.

edit* looking at pics of the MC, the ground electrode isn't v cut...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 1kickbuttranger
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher


Even though its a waste spark, ordinary well priced MC SP-432's make it 40k~ and still have time left, so why not OEM.




The original AGSF32PPM doubles and APP104's should go about 90K-100K no issues.

The gaps will be opened pretty good after about 60K or so on the drivers bank and should be regapped.

The SP 432's do have the nickel ground electrode that I think is V shaped and should be adequate for dual firing, where the others are square cut but have the platinum pad. Although, not sure how long the pad stays on there.

edit* looking at pics of the MC, the ground electrode isn't v cut...



ok, I'm good with the coil and spark plug wires, but fellows - my truck runs sooo good, very quiet, always starts right up - engine idles fine, accelerates like a champ - so why, why would I want to change the spark plugs?

the mechanic did say the wires that were on there were the OEM ones, so I'm good to change them - but I'm wondering maybe the plugs don't need changing - maybe they were done before I bought it (re: it had 107,000 m then).

it's just I come from a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mindset - and I don't want to risk someone getting the timing/gaps wrong and have to deal with that...
 
Over time the gap of the spark plugs will increase as the electrode wears. The coil/PCM can compensate for this to a point, which is why the truck isn't showing drivability symptoms, but to keep it running at its best you want to change the plugs every 100K miles or so. Having to jump a wider gap can cause the coil to wear out prematurely as well. One coil costs more than six plugs.

The truck will probably run noticeably better with new plugs, even though it isn't running bad now. At the least, you will notice it with better MPG.

Plugs are easy on this engine. If I was going to to a coil and wires on it, no way would I leave original 153K mile plugs in there. You can get a set of six plugs for around $25 for this truck.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Over time the gap of the spark plugs will increase as the electrode wears. The coil/PCM can compensate for this to a point, which is why the truck isn't showing drivability symptoms, but to keep it running at its best you want to change the plugs every 100K miles or so. Having to jump a wider gap can cause the coil to wear out prematurely as well. One coil costs more than six plugs.

The truck will probably run noticeably better with new plugs, even though it isn't running bad now. At the least, you will notice it with better MPG.

Plugs are easy on this engine. If I was going to to a coil and wires on it, no way would I leave original 153K mile plugs in there. You can get a set of six plugs for around $25 for this truck.


so sorry for not responding sooner - I think everyone up here in the NE got sidetracked by the snow - but at least here in nyc it mostly missed us!

Thanks so much for your response - I am thinking the plugs were changed at 100k before I bought it, else it would not have been running so well - I've criss-crossed the country 2x, once S-N, and once W-E, both times pulling a u-haul trailer. the only issues I had were when my front bearings went bad and they had to be replaced on the road.

but all the same, I hear what everyone is saying and I will change (or have changed) the plugs along w/the wires too.

thanks everyone again - catchya on the flip side!
 
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