Which has lower voltage loss-solder or crimped?

[sleddriver]

A proper crimp, made with a ratcheting tool, using a quality connector, on the correct gauge wire, is a cold-weld. But you have to put a arrow through all of those rings for it to be such. I sometimes crimp, then solder. Depends on the application.

For automotive use, I like marine-grade connectors. Higher quality to fight off corrosion and nylon vs pvc plastic. Also marine-grade heat-shrink contains adhesive inside that waterproofs the connection.

Further, when I installed new auto wiring for my 2M/440MHz radio, I used Belden commercial grade tinned copper wire with a tough polyethylene insulation. Much better than bare copper and cheap pvc insulation. Easy to solder to as the wire is already tinned!

 

[ls1mike]

We use both on Submarines. Just depends on the application and the type of maintenance it will require.

 

[Quest]

LOL! now comes the so-called solder joint fractures...

Yes, professional crimping is the best way to go, but unfortunately, over 98% of them cannot be done by amateur folks with inappropriate tools on-hand (incl.yours-truly). I've seen it done using machines, and can be done perfectly and achieve consistent results.

Papa-bear's mech+solder joint is the best in real-world situation.

Also: to properly understand how "stong" a soldered joint or connector can be, you must also consider the intended usage (does it experience a lot of pulling/vibrations?etc.) Regardless of whether it's a crimped connector joint or soldered joint, additional structural reinforcements must be considered (e.g. heat-shrink tubing, etc.)

Lastly: over 3/4 of the guys out there can't solder properly, and some folks may even resort to using acid flux (plumbers flux) to do the electrical related joint soldering, usually ended up with crummy joints and solder globs.....thus giving solder joints a bad rep.

Q.

p.s. don't use lead-free solder (w/ antimony filler). Instead: use high quality 60/40 lead-tin solder such as kester "44" or similar, your solder joints will thank you for it.

 

[Quest]

also: sledriver is right RE: a properly executed crimp job is essentially a "cold weld" joint, which is far superior to that than, say, solder joint.

That being said, however, one cannot emphasized enough that the joint is only as good as the preparatory work done beforehand, and it's intended use. Regardless of crimping/soldering, a dirty joint will not conduct properly, and when subjected to moisture, corrosion, etc. both will exhibit deterioration and lose it's fine electrical conducting properties.


*thank you sleddriver*

Q.

 

[sleddriver]

Originally Posted By: Quest
also: sledriver is right RE: a properly executed crimp job is essentially a "cold weld" joint, which is far superior to that than, say, solder joint.

*thank you sleddriver*

eh?